Try resoldering the pins on the program rom pcb. That's the second largest pcb. Not the main unit.EVAWINGZERO wrote:Tried another SD card with the same results.
Any idea where to go next?
Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
All pins resoldered, new Micro SD card used, still same error.
I did notice that on trying to boot AVP, It says the "Object" Ram is the only one erroring.
Not sure if that helps diagnose anything, but It's all I've got. Not sure where to go next...
I did notice that on trying to boot AVP, It says the "Object" Ram is the only one erroring.
Not sure if that helps diagnose anything, but It's all I've got. Not sure where to go next...

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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
If you want you can always send the kit and pcb to me for testing.
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Object RAM is actually part of the B board. Have you tried to disconnect the multi board and try some EPROM game?EVAWINGZERO wrote:All pins resoldered, new Micro SD card used, still same error.
I did notice that on trying to boot AVP, It says the "Object" Ram is the only one erroring.
Not sure if that helps diagnose anything, but It's all I've got. Not sure where to go next...
I would believe the outcome would be similar.

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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
I have tried 3 different Boards with it, and It's all the same results. I took off the Multi, put on a Super Turbo board I have and It fired right up.
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
So you basically switched the B Board, what Oliveira sais is that you take a known-to-work B Board and install the kit there.EVAWINGZERO wrote:I have tried 3 different Boards with it, and It's all the same results. I took off the Multi, put on a Super Turbo board I have and It fired right up.
Arcade Project Master at www.arcade-projects.com
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Ahh, I see what your saying. Pull the kit off of my current B Board, put it on another B-Board to see if it runs.
Well, gotta find another B-Board to try out now. I'll keep you updated, and thanks for the info!
Well, gotta find another B-Board to try out now. I'll keep you updated, and thanks for the info!
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Finally got another B board to test this on. Everything works except for my sound. It is the exact garbled sound that everyone else is describing. Sound will work for a moment, then it'll just play random sounds. It's a rev3 board. I tried running the wire from pin 9 of the gpal under the board, then tried lifting pin 9 and just running it to the connector on the big board. No help. I had an extra G pal so I tried that as well. I also tried going back to the f pal and lifting pin 7 and soldering that. Is there some other solution to this issue that I might have missed?
Edit: here's a video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzKE6Qa6Tdo
Edit: here's a video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzKE6Qa6Tdo
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Nope, that's not what people are having. People have a crackling on the sound. The sound is the right one always, but you get like crackling.delti90 wrote:Finally got another B board to test this on. Everything works except for my sound. It is the exact garbled sound that everyone else is describing. Sound will work for a moment, then it'll just play random sounds. It's a rev3 board. I tried running the wire from pin 9 of the gpal under the board, then tried lifting pin 9 and just running it to the connector on the big board. No help. I had an extra G pal so I tried that as well. I also tried going back to the f pal and lifting pin 7 and soldering that. Is there some other solution to this issue that I might have missed?
Edit: here's a video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzKE6Qa6Tdo
In your case it's clearly a configuration problem. Check carefully the jumpers and that all pins sit properly. Post a pic. That would help.
Cheers.
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
If you connected the pal directly to the j17 on the main kit pcb and you still have incorrect sounds then you most likely have a jumper issue with the sound jumpers. Show some pictures of the jumpers.delti90 wrote:Finally got another B board to test this on. Everything works except for my sound. It is the exact garbled sound that everyone else is describing. Sound will work for a moment, then it'll just play random sounds. It's a rev3 board. I tried running the wire from pin 9 of the gpal under the board, then tried lifting pin 9 and just running it to the connector on the big board. No help. I had an extra G pal so I tried that as well. I also tried going back to the f pal and lifting pin 7 and soldering that. Is there some other solution to this issue that I might have missed?
Edit: here's a video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzKE6Qa6Tdo
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Any suggestions on what be causing my issue of garbled sound having just done a firmware update?
All was working nicely, performed the firmware update for the auto-reset, put the board back together, and connected the cable from swd5 --> b21 cn1.
The auto reset works nicely, video is all good, but the sound is now completely garbled.
All was working nicely, performed the firmware update for the auto-reset, put the board back together, and connected the cable from swd5 --> b21 cn1.
The auto reset works nicely, video is all good, but the sound is now completely garbled.

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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Check if any of the needles on the back of the board got bent or broken.

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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
I think i've given up trying to run this in the case.
Every time I end up with garbled sound, so I take it apart, fiddle with it a bit to get it working, reassemble and then ... same problem.
I think that when its in the case and I connect it to the A board, something flexes and there is a contact issue.
Thing is, all the pins look good, I think it must be bridge connector. If that was a cable I think the problem would be solved.
Anyone else have an issue with it running fine except when you put it in the case?
*General heads up re packages from Darksoft*
Those that are waiting for packages from Darksoft, please note that the tracking service from Poland via Royal Mail is not reliable - as in Royal Mail recognises the code as being a package from Poland, but then doesn't give any tracking details and says there is an error.
It seems that RM doesn't synch up with the Polish dispatching service, so if you've got a tracking number from Darksoft it's on the way, but you can't always track it via RM.
I got a parcel today even though RM said it had no tracking data!
Every time I end up with garbled sound, so I take it apart, fiddle with it a bit to get it working, reassemble and then ... same problem.
I think that when its in the case and I connect it to the A board, something flexes and there is a contact issue.
Thing is, all the pins look good, I think it must be bridge connector. If that was a cable I think the problem would be solved.
Anyone else have an issue with it running fine except when you put it in the case?
*General heads up re packages from Darksoft*
Those that are waiting for packages from Darksoft, please note that the tracking service from Poland via Royal Mail is not reliable - as in Royal Mail recognises the code as being a package from Poland, but then doesn't give any tracking details and says there is an error.
It seems that RM doesn't synch up with the Polish dispatching service, so if you've got a tracking number from Darksoft it's on the way, but you can't always track it via RM.
I got a parcel today even though RM said it had no tracking data!

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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
bloodhokuto wrote:I think i've given up trying to run this in the case.
I think that when its in the case and I connect it to the A board, something flexes and there is a contact issue.
Thing is, all the pins look good, I think it must be bridge connector. If that was a cable I think the problem would be solved.
Anyone else have an issue with it running fine except when you put it in the case?
I got a parcel today even though RM said it had no tracking data!
Thanks for posting your experience with post. Regarding working with case closed, I believe some contact issue is happening there. Try repeating the process closing the case slowly so you see what may be trigering the problem. So far, noone reported his kit having sound problems only when the case is closed.
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Just wanted to chime in and say I got my kit about a week ago. Had the interconnect backwards and wasn't getting anything. Switching that around everything works perfect.
I do have 1 issue though. Both versions of hyper anniversary edition lock up almost always during the very first match. And almost always as Ken doing a shoryuken.
Anyone else have this issue? It's on a revision 7 motherboard with the gpal supplied with the kit.
Thanks
I do have 1 issue though. Both versions of hyper anniversary edition lock up almost always during the very first match. And almost always as Ken doing a shoryuken.
Anyone else have this issue? It's on a revision 7 motherboard with the gpal supplied with the kit.
Thanks
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
@glossectomy - PM sent
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
I have the same issue also.
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
I have a possible suggestion for you as this is what I do:bloodhokuto wrote:I think i've given up trying to run this in the case.
Every time I end up with garbled sound, so I take it apart, fiddle with it a bit to get it working, reassemble and then ... same problem.
I think that when its in the case and I connect it to the A board, something flexes and there is a contact issue.
Don't screw the B Board case back together.
Put the Bottom of the B Board plastic shell on the A Board, then put on your B Board PCB+Multi. Test to see if it works. If it does, then just snap the top plastic shell on. It should still work then once you have that in place. This also makes it super easy to open the case back up if you need to.
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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Thanks, you know I was thinking of doing just that last night. - put it in the bottom part, mount it on the A board, test it, then slip on the cover as gently as possible, make sure it works - then never touch it again!aoiddr wrote:bloodhokuto wrote:
I have a possible suggestion for you as this is what I do:
Don't screw the B Board case back together.
Put the Bottom of the B Board plastic shell on the A Board, then put on your B Board PCB+Multi. Test to see if it works. If it does, then just snap the top plastic shell on. It should still work then once you have that in place. This also makes it super easy to open the case back up if you need to.

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Re: Darksoft's CPS2 Multikit Tech Support Thread (No Killing B-Boards!)
Mr bloodhokuto, what steps are you taking to get it working again?
After taking mine apart to update, I can no longer get it working again without garbled sound.
Reseated everything five or six times. Everything looks flush, the reinforcement boards are in place, so no pins are bent broken. I've never put the lid back on, so that isn't putting any pressure on mine.
Do you do some fiddling whilst it's running, to get it working again, or just reseat everything whilst it's off?
After taking mine apart to update, I can no longer get it working again without garbled sound.
Reseated everything five or six times. Everything looks flush, the reinforcement boards are in place, so no pins are bent broken. I've never put the lid back on, so that isn't putting any pressure on mine.
Do you do some fiddling whilst it's running, to get it working again, or just reseat everything whilst it's off?
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