Jaleco Pony Mark III 25

[pubjoe]

Ahh thanks Pang.

Mine are from Akihabarashop and are the nutty variety, PS-14-G-N

[o1s1n]

The more I see the original button/balltop colour pattern the more I want to swap out my pink and green ones

It really does look great. Especially with those transparent dust covers.

[pubjoe]

My monitor has a habit of shutting off after half an hour. Seems quite consistent these days.

[crunchywasp]

Urgh

[pubjoe]

Just put Ibbers in too.

But still,

[crunchywasp]

Ibbers

I like it when you call it that

[cools]

Suggest a full recap.

I want to do mine at some point so if you wanted to make up some cap kits I'd be interested.

[pubjoe]

Do the capacitors have to be ordered in a larger quantity than I need so I might as well make up several kits?

If so, yeah that makes sense. I'm always up for saving a few quid, but I don't really know what I'm doing.

[Devil Soundwave]

You should be able to buy single component from Mouser or wherever, just that you may get a better per unit price if you buy 5+ or 10+ or whatever or each piece.

[pubjoe]

Regarding the monitor:

It's hard to see the chassis so I blindly took some flash photographs with my phone to get a better look and noticed a loose connector (the grey one in this photo)...

photo-5.JPG

And another grey one which connects to the anode was just the same.

I braced myself and pushed them in firm, and I think that's now sorted it. The screen seems better than ever. It always used to wobble occasionally (which I thought was my failure to set v-hold properly), but now it seems more solid. I can't yet be fully certain that the problem's gone away, or if it's a coincidence, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

From the monitor's behaviour since I've owned the cab, I'm guessing that perhaps these connections were a little loose to begin with (I mentioned some occasional problems here), and then were made worse by my lazy tating.

I am still a bit concerned about the monitor's random power-offs. When it shut off, it would make a horrible grinding sound and then cause a bit of a smell. Is this a sign of damage?

[pubjoe]

Screen just zapped off again. ****.

[pubjoe]

Okay I'm scared to turn the thing on now and I'm going to have a crack at this recap thing.

I have no clue what I'm doing and it's real pain in a family house to pull the machine out and work on it.

Do I need to remove the chassis and make a cap list, or does this information already exist somewhere, like in the last page of this manual?

[Devil Soundwave]

Not in the manual, no. You need a schematic, but there isn't one available for that chassis as far as I'm aware.

That said, whilst I was looking, I found this interesting post from Jomac which is worth a read.

http://www.aussiearcade.com.au/showthre ... 1-Cap-Kits"

The upshot of that is that basically I think you'd be best pulling the chassis and sending it off to Grant or Craig (or Jomac if you fancy huge postage costs) for repair.

[pubjoe]

Thanks DS.

Just getting the thing off is enough to put me off.

[Devil Soundwave]

Also, dropping a thread about this into Monitor Q&A makes it more likely that Grant will read it...

[pubjoe]

Yeah, I keep meaning to get myself ready for a proper thread.

[gargoyle67]

If you decide to sell for scrap I'll take it

[cools]

Well it is my birthday.

Happy Birthday big boy

DisplayCollapse view

I've ended up using these exact same colours I did try white P1/red P2 with white balltops on both (as per the recent YAJ auction) but it just looked odd. Yellow P1 buttons might be better. Black balltops on both was okay but... Done for now.

[pubjoe]

I like the RyuKen-ness of it.

[pubjoe]

I just went looking to buy some mate'n'loc connectors for the CP. 15 pin right? Erm... something doesn't add up. Does the 2l6b use two sets of connectors?