and OSBF-30 without needing to make any permanent modifications to the stick itself - though you do need to modify the LS56 a bit.I did consider doing a more invasive mod with a modern PCB inside but decided against it - I'd have no way of getting the turbo switches working with any other board, so that panel would have to go. While that wouldn't be the end of the world I'd be replacing it with lesser functionality; having to hold "Turbo" then press a button is not as neat as just flipping a switch. PS1 / PS2 to other adapters are plentiful, no real hardship there. Decided to keep it electrically stock, but upgrade the mechanical parts.
Note that the Playstation version of this stick is the technically superior one (it has a select button). The Saturn version doesn't have that button, and the NeoGeo one only has four buttons. Here are some less careful mods of those sticks... How To
An LS56 is basically the same size as the stock Hori. It has a longer shaft as it's meant to be fitted to a bracket underneath a CP. If you look closely at the LS56 and the Hori, you'll spot they have the exact same screw hole pattern - on the LS56 it's used for attaching the restrictor to the stick, and on the Hori it's used for attaching the stick to the chassis. By substantially widening these screw holes (the posts are 9mm wide) on the LS56, we're able to fit it onto the original mounting posts in the chassis. It fits snugly, no wobble. Then the microswitches and restrictor plate are fitted on top, using the original Hori screws to fix the restrictor in place and sandwich everything together. Crimp some 4mm spade connectors onto the original Hori joystick harness. There'll be just enough length of wire to reach the terminals, you may want to bend some of them to make it easier and reduce pressure on the connections. Of course the ball top now sits much too high, but fortunately short shafts are available for LS-5x/6x sticks. This corrects the height if a stick is flush mounted to the underneath of a CP. Unfortunately, the short (hollow) shafts have a slightly longer internal measurement! Unlike the standard shaft, if you try and use these they scrape on the base when pressing Up on the stick. File down the end of the shaft by a millimetre, removing the bevelled section but still leaving enough room to slot a screwdriver in. Solder wires with 2.8mm 90 degree spade crimp connectors on to the button PCB, and cover the back in kapton tape to insulate it. Straight connectors may work too, I just knew things were going to be tight so I went with the 90 degree ones rather than put pressure on the crimps. Fit the connectors onto the buttons, then bend the connections over as flat as you can make them. Last modification is to the original Hori dust washer - the only part that is permanently changed. You could use a Sanwa JL-PP1 washer but I prefer the look of the original bevelled one. It fits onto an LS56, but there's no room for the stick to throw - it's too tight. You need to widen the hole by a millimetre. I found this Dremel bit did the job perfectly - I turned it by hand so as not to grind away too much or melt the plastic. And we're done. I've tried to match the original Hori/Playstation colours here (so that the turbo switches match). Pink, green, blue (dark blue is more vivid but doesn't match the turbo switch at all), vermilion (Sanwa red is too dark), grey. Stick a Raphnet or Brook adapter on the end to convert it to USB/whatever and you have a stick that beats everything out there in terms of comfort. Because the controls are at the top, there's enough room for your whole hand to rest on the flat surface without the stick needing to be massive to allow for it. There's also a few degrees angle to the playing surface, matching what you get on a Jaleco Pony cab.
