Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

[mRCaESaR]

It's been 8 years since the release of the SFIV on the Taito Vewlix Cabinet and it's been 8 years since I've wanted one.

The day finally arrived! Albeit, a Chinese clone, but it's far superior than my MDF cabinet that I built in 2012.

I know there's a lot of Chinese Vewlix (I will refer to as the Chewlix from here on) threads on the forum and I've probably read most of them, but I would like to try and make this a one stop shop for the Chewlix cabs

My purchase was second hand, so I'm not sure exactly how old this cabinet is compared to what's out now.

Please note, I haven't had a week with mine yet, so I'm not 100% sure on many things.

A few things to note about my recent purchase:

- It's the clone of the Vewlix C (I prefer this colour scheme, I love red!)
- Need to replace joystick and buttons with Sanwa as the buttons installed were rubbish
- Need to add a spacer from the top panel to the joystick as there is no spacer. That 5mm difference is quite noticeable when I've been using the japanese standard (25-28mm from the control panel to the base of the balltop) for a good 10-15 years.
- Originally thought it was a 720P VGA only unit, but I have since found out there's DVI (model number ZMD320HH06 YOU YING TOP - don't think it's a Samsung or LG Panel )
- Running Pandora 3
- No external amplifier, the speakers are directly connected to the JAMMA harnes
- Need to find spare bolts that attaches the control panel to the unit. It only came with two and I'm not too keen on just the two bolts, there's another 3 holes that I can see have threads
- No coin mech installed in my cabinet
- Gutted there's no LED on the control panel. Easy enough fix

Here's a collection of pics:





The monitor displaying 1920x1080 @ 60hz on DVI



Some options from the monitor



And you manage those options through these buttons



Model number of the screen

[IDCHAPPY]

Chewlix love it. Looks a decent cline too

[FcoBenitez]

I can send you a pair of 3d printed Sanwa spacers, just pay postage

[mRCaESaR]

Had some 3mm acrylic at home so, grabbed the JLF bracket and made a make shift spacer. I've used 2 lots of 3mm so it's already got a 6mm spacer, but it's still about 3mm too high. Unfortunately, I've run out of thread on the control panel to put another 3mm spacer on. I've ordered M4 spacers to try and give me that extra thread.

Swapped out with Sanwa JLF and OBSF-30's and what can I say. It's night and day for me (even for my son, who straight away preferred the Sanwa's as they were "softer" when you press it - he definitely knows the quality!! )

Also ordered some OBSF-30 in red to give it that "Vewlix C" look



For those that need information about the control panel bolts, the size is M6 x 20mm. They fit perfectly!



Now let's get to the wiring!

I'll be purchasing a couple Brook Universal Fighting Board (UFB) to allow compatibility for Xbox One, Xbox 360, PS4, PS3, Wii U, PC and Switch, my question is what's the best way to replicate the harness that is currently installed - this way I can just "change" the controllers on the fly from JAMMA to the consoles/PC

The controller harness appears to be an ATX style connector. Does anyone know how to make these style connectors?

I've got a crimper if that's all I require, obviously some sort of female/male connector (I'll need to source these out)



Moving on the speakers. I have no idea what connector this is





I want to remove the wiring from the connector and put it on to a Lepy amp that I've used with my bartop. Is it safe for me to assume, it's just a matter of tracing the wires from the JAMMA, disconnect and connect to the -/+ sections of the amp? This way, 3.5mm can be my source at all times

Is there a recommended a coin mech for these units?

As you can see from the pic, there's no coin mech at all. Others I've seen for purchase has a coin mech, but I'm interested to get a coin mech working (not a high priority though)



Finally, I now have an urge to purchase another one to make into 2x 1p setups (already purchased a 1P panel). I'm just wondering if anyone has linked two cabinets up?

I found something like this to pass through the audio/video/usb signals:



My logic would be:

Cab 1 as the source

- PS4 HDMI out to a splitter
- Output 1 to Cab1 monitor, output 2 to Cab1 HDMI pass through
- PS4 optical out to a DAC
- DAC 3.5 mm out to a splitter
- Output 1 audio to Cab1 amp, output 2 to Cab1 3.5mm pass through
- Cab1 controls connected to Brook UFB pcb, USB to the PS4
- Second USB port of the PS4 ouput to Cab1 USB pass through

Cab 2 as the secondary

- Monitor of Cab 2 into cab 2 HDMI pass through
- 3.5mm from cab2 amp connected to cab 2 3.5mm pass through
- Cab 2 controls connected to Brook UFB, usb connected to cab 2 USB pass through

Once you connect cab1 and cab2 pass throughs together, in theory, I should have two cabinets setup - not sure how much lag it'd introduce though. I can't imagine it being that much. Has anybody done this before?

[mRCaESaR]

I can send you a pair of 3d printed Sanwa spacers, just pay postage

Thanks for the offer. I'm sure your spacers would look much cleaner than mine, but for now, I'm OK.

[FcoBenitez]

No problem

[meekgeek]

Sorry to hijack.
I also got one of these Chinese Vewlix Clones.
It works great and all but the metal conductive parts give off an electrical discharge (electrical shock kinda feel).
I suspect it is not properly grounded? can anyone advise.

I've a shot of the psu. not sure if it helps. Is yours wired like that as well.
I'm gonna switch the black cable from G to the Earth Ground (next to L/N) and give it a shot

[mRCaESaR]

Mine is earthed.

20171107_114813.jpg

I'll have another look when I get home from work, but I'm sure that earth goes to the 2x plugs on the side and is daisy chained to the chassis.

Mind you, I am on 240v

[meekgeek]

I realise the Earth Ground is not connected to the 3pin plug at all

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So i ghetto-ed up a cable (spare from arcade stick) and juz hooked up 3pin plug -> PSU Earth Ground -> 2 points in the chasis. Problem solved!
At least the machine no longer shocks me now. I probably should get thicker cables though.
The ones im using look too thin. Is there like a standard size or sth i can go for?

The speakers still don't work. sigh. audio line out straight from the pandora box works fine though. I suspect the jamma harness is not wired up properly?
Need to do some research on how this works with the pandora box.

The China Cabs have pretty nice finish and build but the wiring is frankly atrocious. the buttons were all wired up wrongly as well.

[mRCaESaR]

Good stuff!

I had a feeling it wasn't earthed properly. I do think you need to put at least 18 awg on there. Maybe even 16 awg.

Regarding the speakers... Do yours have a plug like in my pics? 2x Orange wires and 2x green wires?

I just haven't got my external amp yet, but what I'll be doing is taking the speakers out of the jamma harness (should be wired to the 10th pin from the power side) and ground, then put the active lines to the positive sections of the left/right speaker (looking at my setup, orange is the active and green is the negative)

This should provide me complete control of the speakers and as long as I have a source that can output to analogue, I will be ok.

[mRCaESaR]

Finally, I now have an urge to purchase another one to make into 2x 1p setups (already purchased a 1P panel). I'm just wondering if anyone has linked two cabinets up?

So the urge didn't take long! I've now put a deposit for a second cab and I'm hoping towards mid to late month I'll have it!

The whole experience is much better with two!

Using some old kit I had, I tested having one source with two outputs and as you can see from the video (apologies for the horrible lighting, it's quite dark in the garage), she worked like a treat!

I was initially scared about "lag" on the Chewlix monitor, but my non-scientific testing showed me that I can still link 1f combos in USF4 so it can't be too laggy ie. It's good enough for me!

Took a while to land the FADC, but I eventually got there



And some SFV. Excuse the scrubiness, it's been about a year since I last turned this on, the Chewlix purchase was enough to give it life again!



Now I need to purchase another 1P panel and some Brook UFBs!

[meekgeek]

Good stuff!

I had a feeling it wasn't earthed properly. I do think you need to put at least 18 awg on there. Maybe even 16 awg.

Regarding the speakers... Do yours have a plug like in my pics? 2x Orange wires and 2x green wires?

I just haven't got my external amp yet, but what I'll be doing is taking the speakers out of the jamma harness (should be wired to the 10th pin from the power side) and ground, then put the active lines to the positive sections of the left/right speaker (looking at my setup, orange is the active and green is the negative)

This should provide me complete control of the speakers and as long as I have a source that can output to analogue, I will be ok.

i dont see any speakers in your pics?
let me take more pics when im down at the place. all i see are yellow and black. i doubt these chinese installers use a proper colour code anyway.
im actually renovating the place.
im more inclined to just use usb powered speakers hooked up to the pandora's line out.
the installer's intentions look like he intended to juz wire the jamma straight daisy chained to 4 unpowered speakers.
i really need to learn this wiring/power stuff. hahaha
thanks for the advice!

[meekgeek]

Finally, I now have an urge to purchase another one to make into 2x 1p setups (already purchased a 1P panel). I'm just wondering if anyone has linked two cabinets up?

So the urge didn't take long! I've now put a deposit for a second cab and I'm hoping towards mid to late month I'll have it!

The whole experience is much better with two!

Using some old kit I had, I tested having one source with two outputs and as you can see from the video (apologies for the horrible lighting, it's quite dark in the garage), she worked like a treat!

I was initially scared about "lag" on the Chewlix monitor, but my non-scientific testing showed me that I can still link 1f combos in USF4 so it can't be too laggy ie. It's good enough for me!

Took a while to land the FADC, but I eventually got there

And some SFV. Excuse the scrubiness, it's been about a year since I last turned this on, the Chewlix purchase was enough to give it life again!

Now I need to purchase another 1P panel and some Brook UFBs!

Just curious how you are hooking this all up or rather the best way to hook it all up.
Controls are all wired to a jamma harness already when it came. did you rewire everything?

i was thinking something like:
controls --> jamma harness --> generic jamma to usb convetor -> PC/Rasp PI
or
controls --> jamma harness --> generic jamma to usb convetor -> brooks system specific usb convertor (cheaper than UFB) -> PS4

Those brooks UFBs are expensive stuff.

oh btw i went with usb speakers. the lazy way for now.

[mRCaESaR]

Just curious how you are hooking this all up or rather the best way to hook it all up.

The cabs will be connected as I mentioned previously:

Cab 1 as the source

- PS4 HDMI out to a splitter
- Output 1 to Cab1 monitor, output 2 to Cab1 HDMI pass through
- PS4 optical out to a DAC
- DAC 3.5 mm out to a splitter
- Output 1 audio to Cab1 amp, output 2 to Cab1 3.5mm pass through
- Cab1 controls connected to Brook UFB pcb, USB to the PS4
- Second USB port of the PS4 ouput to Cab1 USB pass through

Cab 2 as the secondary

- Monitor of Cab 2 into cab 2 HDMI pass through
- 3.5mm from cab2 amp connected to cab 2 3.5mm pass through
- Cab 2 controls connected to Brook UFB, usb connected to cab 2 USB pass through

i was thinking something like:
controls --> jamma harness --> generic jamma to usb convetor -> PC/Rasp PI
or
controls --> jamma harness --> generic jamma to usb convetor -> brooks system specific usb convertor (cheaper than UFB) -> PS4

The buttons are technically wired like this:

Jamma harness > female molex 16pin connector > male molex 16 pin connector > control panel buttons

What I will be doing is removing the Jamma harness so I will make a UFB > female molex 16 pin connector, plug it straight in to the male 16 pin connect and in theory, it should just work

Those brooks UFBs are expensive stuff.

They are, but they offer the most compatibility.

It'd be way more expensive and way more time consuming to create pad hacks for the PS4, 360, XB1.

I ordered my UFB yesterday, fortunately, I already had a spare one I was supposed to put in one of my MC:VS stick, but that can way (already have a UFP installed in another VS, a VLX and a TE2)

oh btw i went with usb speakers. the lazy way for now.

What ever works for you

It'd do my head in knowing there's 4 speakers that aren't working

[mRCaESaR]

So I've been in talks with a local designer/printer and look what he's come up with for me!?

He originally had the vewlix f colour scheme, but I asked if there was a way to use the vewlix c colour scheme and after ordering in a special vinyl, here's what the final product looks like!









I'll post more pics when I apply the vinyl

[mRCaESaR]

Got a nice little parcel yesterday!



The JLF bracket fits like a glove.



However, like my 2P control panel, the height is not correct from the base of the top of the CP to the base of the ball head

30mm - slightly too high.



Rather than making an acrylic spacer, I use used the nuts it came with as the spacer and got some additional m4 nuts to secure the JLF bracket. Worked out good as I had no more thread



Voila! 25mm from the base of the CP to the base of the ball top!!



As best as I could replicate the Vewlix C colour scheme



The before pic of the 2P CP



The new 1P CP!



I'm hoping the following will arrive soon:

- Toslink to 3.5mm DAC
- External Amp
- Molex harness parts so I can wire up the PCB

[zumbito]

So I've been in talks with a local designer/printer and look what he's come up with for me!?

I'll post more pics when I apply the vinyl

Those look awesome! Any chance to share the arts or order some?

[mRCaESaR]

Those look awesome! Any chance to share the arts or order some?

I haven't been given a copy of the file.. if you want to order some, you can get it from http://www.noodleshirt.com/ the owner will take care of you..

Another parcel arrived for me today!!



200m worth of 20 AWG wiring! 16 pin ATX style male/female connectors and their respective contact socket/pins

Here's my wiring details for my cabinet (YMMV)



My awful drawing that got the job done It showed me where I needed to connect my pins and sockets.



Let the crimping begin!!



Found an OG PS360 on the shelf and I'll be using this PCB for my second player until the second Brook UFB arrives - this can be used in SFV as a "legacy" controller



A few hours later, I've got 2x PCBs wired up and a 2.5m extension



PS360 all wired up - the extra buttons is for the home button and select - I need to find a way to rig up a bracket to put these two buttons in the coin area so I don't have to have the base of the cabinet exposed when trying to use home and select.



The PCB to rule them all!!! The Brook UFB. I have to find some sort of enclosure to put this in. Not a fan of it being exposed.



2.5m extension for my controller - why do I need this you ask?

Since the plan is to have a dual chewlix setup, this extension cable will allow me to wire up the 2p controller inside the source cabinet (where the pandora is) and route the cable to the back of both units then plug it in to the second cabinet.

After about 10 minutes of testing, all 3 units worked as expected, all directions and buttons worked without having to rewire anything.

The idea with keeping the harness is purely to make switching controllers MUCH MUCH easier. I can go from Jamma to console within seconds by simply unplugging one set of cables and plugging another one in.

Just now waiting for the external amp and DAC to have a ps4 functioning cabinet!

At some point, I need to confirm if this cabinet can be rotated for SHMUPS!

[mRCaESaR]

At some point, I need to confirm if this cabinet can be rotated for SHMUPS!

So curiosity got the better of me..

Spent a few hours last night trying to work out if I could rotate this cab.

TL;DR - Didn't work for my cabinet

Btw, excuse the mess of the garage. I'm in the process of clearing it out hahah

The back of the unit is pretty dull, two horizontal metal frames with 4 holes to mount the LCD



Working out the pics from the Vewlix manual, it seemed pretty standard:

- Take the screw out on the top black piece
- Take the screw out on the middle black piece
- Take another screw out on the inside frame of where the top black piece came out
- Once the three screws are out, the side panel should come off without too much of an issue



I then discovered there's an LED strip for the top marquee



Remove the 4 screws on the LCD bezel and it just lifts off



The underside of the bezel has brackets so the glass won't fall off



Take the 4 screws out of the LCD from the back mount bracket and she comes off quite easily



The LCD was surprisingly light, compared to what I had imagined



Next remove a couple of screws inside the marquee, and the top metal horizontal piece (joining the marquee and top of the unit) is removed.

Remove a few more screws on a piece in between the control panel and monitor section

Finally, remove the metal panels in between the speakers and you pretty bare Chewlix



After adjusting the top speakers to the correct height, I was able to insert the metal panels in place

Once I placed the monitor in middle, I thought for sure I was to play SHMUPS in a rotated state....

When I went to place the screws back, there's no possible way it would go back on the horizontal bracket...



I tried everything I could think of for another hour, but couldn't figure it out. I also couldn't figure out how the bezel would go back on as I couldn't see where or how I could use the 4 screws to hold the bezel in place.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get this cabinet rotate

I've seen a couple of other Chewlix's that have it rotated. Maybe I'm missing brackets that the original owner didn't give me.. who knows. For now, this is going to be a dedicated horizontal cab

In other news, I cut the speaker wires from the jamma harness and placed them on to an external amp. Took me a couple of goes before I found the correct combination of left/right speakers



This is the little beauty that converts the digital audio from the ps4, back to analog to output to the amp

.

Sound!!!!



I now a full fledged 1P PS4/Jamma system. I'm hoping my delivery of the second one happens next week so I can have that 2P action!

[OLDBYTE]

Great thread on the CHEWLIX cabs. We bought one here in Australia, knowing we would never get an original Vewlix Street Fighter cab. Brand new $1700 AUD. We are running an original Super Street Fighter 4 arcade edition Namco unit in it. (Purchased in Japan ) We had a local company reproduce some artwork. The cab looks and runs great. Everyone loves the cab and it is one of our fav. We added red Led lights and I made a matching Street Fighter stool .

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