To get back on topic and maybe help others having the same problem, i have Mushihimesama (SH3 hardware) perfectly running on a NVS-4000 psu for a while now
Like others stated before, i needed a more powerfull psu. The standard grey one (7A output) in my Astro City couldn't run it. A red LED flickering on the pcb and just a black screen.
Everything hooked up correct right now, just need to buy some amp-plugs from Starcab to wire it neatly.
Thanks everyone! This concludes my question and why i started this thread.
joeks wrote:To get back on topic and maybe help others having the same problem, i have Mushihimesama (SH3 hardware) perfectly running on a NVS-4000 psu for a while now
Like others stated before, i needed a more powerfull psu. The standard grey one (7A output) in my Astro City couldn't run it. A red LED flickering on the pcb and just a black screen.
Everything hooked up correct right now, just need to buy some amp-plugs from Starcab to wire it neatly.
Thanks everyone! This concludes my question and why i started this thread.
Not all psu are built equal regardless of specs. Sometimes specs are over rated some times under rated. Just depends on how much the rail can actually handle in a boot situation. Caps have a lot to due with it too.
yetterben wrote:Not all psu are built equal regardless of specs. Sometimes specs are over rated some times under rated. Just depends on how much the rail can actually handle in a boot situation. Caps have a lot to due with it too.
Is there an echo in here? I just said pretty much the same thing about 10 posts ago
I have just fixed an Astro City PSU for someone in another thread who had problems with bubble Bobble and GNet...
The psu i worked on was Part number 400-5198-01
These psu's are rather basic, and very compact. Although the PSU looked really clean, all of the caps inside showed signs of excessive heat, and while i didn't sit and analyse them, they looked physically bad enough to want to replace them as a matter of course.
The other big problem with this psu is stated on its label, its -5v is only rated at 0.1A... I think this is feeble, and this explained nicely the problems with bubble bobble (whose RGB customs *and* sound circuits use -5v).
I upgraded the -5v regulator to 1.5amp, more than enough for any old pcb (most old PSU's and therefore most old game pcbs only have -5v at 1amp anyhow) as well as replaced all of the capacitors..
And magically all the problems went away.
So, if you don't want to hack the wiring in your cabinet and fancy your chances at having the original PSU rebuilt then let me know as i can either sell you a kit to fit yourself, or i can fit the kit for you and test/return.
If you have other models of astrocity psu (the grey one?) i can take a look, and i bet they aren't far off the 400-5198-01 in build quality and design.
Is there an echo in here? I just said pretty much the same thing about 10 posts ago 
