Setting Wei-ya M3129D B+ pots back to factory defaults

[cools]

I'm wondering if its your cables that are at fault. Use the normal probes to check out their resistance.

[cools]

Erm, one end has a croc clip on it. You don't need three hands

[cools]

Between 6 and 9 o'clock on your meter is for testing resistance (ohms)

[cools]

They do have some resistance (they're not superconductors) but it's too low to be measured by your meter. This means the cables are good anyway - there's no break in the conductor.

[Akuma]

Did you buy Moshi's chassis from the necked E3? Couldn't concentrate on reading the whole topic, sorry

[cools]

Yay!

Yeah, it'll fluctuate a bit, that's why you set it up with a grid (to get the brightness, width and height "correct" for the input signal)

[buzzer]

Hi, could you repost your pictures?
I have to measure the b+15k poti, but my multimeter shows allways '0'.
Also my B+15k Poti does weird things like in the following video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytk5Zb3YVNo
Is this normal? Sometimes it looks ok when I put some pressure on it while turning,
when I lower the pressure it's a mess again.

[neokoen]

Hi, could you repost your pictures?
I have to measure the b+15k poti, but my multimeter shows allways '0'.
Also my B+15k Poti does weird things like in the following video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytk5Zb3YVNo
Is this normal? Sometimes it looks ok when I put some pressure on it while turning,
when I lower the pressure it's a mess again.

might be a bad solder joint somewhere

[buzzer]

Just clip one probe of the multimeter onto the monitor frame, and the other onto the leg of the R33 resistor (clearly labelled, next to the 15K b+ pot at the front of the chassis)

Hmmm that's exactly what i did. I think i have to give it another try.

[buzzer]

I need new friends

[buzzer]

Hmm when I'm measuring the Voltage of my NeoGeoCD-Powersupply it works.
Could a bad solder joint of the ressistor be the reason?
I have to pull out the chassis anyway

[grantspain]

it could be a bad solder joint somewhere then.

i reckon you could be correct there

[dieKatze88]

So this is the chassis that fits the MS9 that I keep hearing nobody should ever use? That doesn't look too bad if you were able to bang out that annoying issue. I kept hearing reports that the 15khz picture on this chassis is not that great, I'm willing to do legwork with a multimeter (there's a reason I own one) to get good results on all 3 resolutions, but a replacement chassis for my MS9 would save me a **** over the only monitor I'm really considering right now (the Kortek 29 inch quad-sync that betson sells under their own brand)

I am after reasonably good results. I like my 15khz picture as it is now (http://katzepower.com/Arcade/SexyParodius/DSC_0100.JPG) but I'd be willing to take somewhat of a hit in quality if it meant I could save almost 300 dollars (as long as the picture is still reasonably good, my standards don't call for Sanwa PFX quality)

I'm not really that much of a monitor expert. I try not to be, it takes too much of other people's lives away, I watched more than one representative of TGA shoot themselves across a room. But I would be willing to fit one of these seeing as my tube is in great shape, It just needs to be autosync and trisync.

Which leaves me with two questions.

http://katzepower.com/Arcade/SexyParodius/DSC_0116.JPG
Konami GX is the only true 15khz crosshatch I have, is it acceptable with the grey background if I were to fit one of these? I'm not above calling a friend and having him ship me a better test image. I would use Gradius IV, but I'm damn sure it does something differently because the 15khz output from that machine just doesn't stand up to the 15khz output from true 15khz boards (Like both of the GXes I own)

Kernow, this one's for you. Is this chassis worth the effort to install, and does it produce a good enough 15khz/24khz picture? I'm seriously considering one of these so I'd like to know from more people who have them.

[grantspain]

you will get heavier scan lines on 15khz with a wei ya compared to the nanao,the major drawback will be the possibilty of side compression but thats not inevitable
like all things you pay for what you get,if you want a perfect tri sync picture then get a sanwa pfx,if you want a perfect 15k/24khz pic stick with the nanao

[dieKatze88]

you will get heavier scan lines on 15khz with a wei ya compared to the nanao,the major drawback will be the possibilty of side compression but thats not inevitable
like all things you pay for what you get,if you want a perfect tri sync picture then get a sanwa pfx,if you want a perfect 15k/24khz pic stick with the nanao

How bad can it get? do we have examples?

Are you talking about the wei-ya chassis ? I don't actually mind the 15k picture when its set up correctly, in my cases it seems to be the tube that causes the geometry issues more than the chassis. Might just be me though. I'm very happy with the picture my hori cab produces in 15k, its just the side is a bit wonky now.

That link you posted does look fine however.

Yeah I did a ****** of work with the adjusters to get the 15khz picture on the GX to look **** perfect.

[dieKatze88]

You did well, I've spent countless hours on my screens and so has cools, to get them something like being good.

Since I play low res games I have no need for trisyncs, and I get my first nanao this weekend

Seriously, get it as good as you can and then forget about it. With the wei-ya's I find the 31k pic is actually very good, but the 15k picture, its scanline-thick and the geometry isn't too hot. I don't actually mind it when the colour is good and the focus is nice and sharp but still the scanlines are pretty thick. I can handle it on one cab though, not two

That made the decision for me. The reason I switched my MS9 to 24khz for a while is so I can play Gradius 4 without scanlines the size of **** quarters. I don't know for the life of me what that board does different/wrong but the scanlines are thicker than the pixels themselves, and that leads me to adjust the monitor to about 25" viewable to get a halfway decent picture (but lose like 20% of my viewable area >_>) and on a game that has mostly black backgrounds it can create confusion as to where Vic Viper can go :-p

Alright. I'll save and get the Kortek.

[dieKatze88]

no, I like the scanlines, and the picture is great, but if the scanlines get much bigger it loses alot of picture quality. I just don't want them to be bigger than the pixels.

[cools]

That made the decision for me. The reason I switched my MS9 to 24khz for a while is so I can play Gradius 4 without scanlines the size of **** quarters. I don't know for the life of me what that board does different/wrong but the scanlines are thicker than the pixels themselves, and that leads me to adjust the monitor to about 25" viewable to get a halfway decent picture (but lose like 20% of my viewable area >_>) and on a game that has mostly black backgrounds it can create confusion as to where Vic Viper can go :-p

Alright. I'll save and get the Kortek.

Any chance of a photo of this?

GIV is meant to be run on a 24k display. Sod knows what it does when set to 15k, could be in a really nasty scaled mode that accents the scanlines.

[dieKatze88]

That made the decision for me. The reason I switched my MS9 to 24khz for a while is so I can play Gradius 4 without scanlines the size of **** quarters. I don't know for the life of me what that board does different/wrong but the scanlines are thicker than the pixels themselves, and that leads me to adjust the monitor to about 25" viewable to get a halfway decent picture (but lose like 20% of my viewable area >_>) and on a game that has mostly black backgrounds it can create confusion as to where Vic Viper can go :-p

Alright. I'll save and get the Kortek.

Any chance of a photo of this?

GIV is meant to be run on a 24k display. Sod knows what it does when set to 15k, could be in a really nasty scaled mode that accents the scanlines.

http://www.Katzepower.com/Arcade

All the Gradius IV pictures up there right now are in 15khz mode, I switched the monitor to 24khz mode last night and (**** surprise!) the game doesn't look like **** anymore.

http://www.katzepower.com/Arcade/GradiusIV/IMAG0021.jpg

This one

Compare to

http://www.katzepower.com/Arcade/SexyPa ... C_0100.JPG

The ONLY thing that changes between the two are the Horizontal position and scaling really

[dieKatze88]

So Kernow, could you get some nice snaps of some 15khz games running on your new hardware?