A noobs adventures in cab ownership!

[geotrig]

even though some hanty's have a very good pic, my point still stands I've never seen a hanty come close pic wise to a nanao or that especially side by side

Have you ever seen new Hantarex, the problem I had I with new ones they were too bright and sharp, especially the Polostar I could never get the contrast quite right.

I think a crt is designed to look at his best after a few 1000 hours run in, a bit like hifi. (I jest of course with hifi, that’s just imagination)

Yeah ,a good few years back now and it was few months old at the time so maybe it was still bedding in ,I still think there a very nice monitor but a the the time it was beside an ms8 and the ms8 blew it away , any ive had just not as nice as my e2 monitor as well

[ChrisBEANS]

Still absolutely stoked with the screen on the big boy right now!

I’ve now put the painted PCB cage back over the six slot today, so that’s a lot tidier. Couple of stickers in the post to finish that off, but we’re getting there.

With the six slot it really is just a case of waiting on a couple of bits and we’re done!


Couple of issues have arisen today though

First one is a very ‘First World Problem’ so I apologise in advance, but if anyone has any insight I’d be grateful...

The NeoSD Pro works great in the four slot, and works great in the OMVS (consolized MVS), but doesn’t work in the six slot.

Tried it in different slots too, no dice.

Voltage is the same on both machines (about 5.1), and both have UniBIOS 4.0...

Any ideas??



Second issue is potentially more serious, unfortunately.

The short that I had on the U4 is back. Best guess is because it’s been moved around a bit.

We can eliminate the CP as that’s since been rewired and is now super tidy and really well insulated.

It’s not the four slot, because that machine now has a completely new MVS in it.

I think I’m going to have to try to see where all the wiring goes and what the score is. It’s not an area I’m extremely comfortable with, but every day’s a school day huh??

[ChrisBEANS]

Got the whole day to myself, so I'm going to finish the T-molding on the big fella, wire up the 2p side of the panel, replace all of the exterior panels so I can see exactly what needs touching up cosmetically, and I'm going to install a 'coin' button.

Then I can bung it in the corner, where it's going to live eventually and all I'll really be waiting on is the EL panels.

Then, if I'm double brave, I'm going to have a good crack at investigating the wiring in the U4...




Is there a recommended way to wire a coin button? Add it in to the JAMMA (MVS) edge? or maybe extend the wiring from the 'service' button? (This one seems to make the most sense to me)

Another question... with the big cab against the wall, and the small cab next to it, there's no way to access the power switch. I imagine this is a common issue. Do people use the switch at the wall instead and just leave the cab switch at on? In a perfect world I'll be using the socket behind the cab, so no visible wires. I might invest in one of those socket adapters that can be operated by Alexa or Siri maybe?!

[cools]

I use whatever switch is most convenient.

Service button extension makes the most sense. On that cab i' d be trying to find a way of using the coin reject button mechanism for it

[ChrisBEANS]

I use whatever switch is most convenient.

Service button extension makes the most sense. On that cab i' d be trying to find a way of using the coin reject button mechanism for it

I think you're right... There's a hole under the CP that a previous owner (Neo Gold on here) used to add a pause button. I'm tempted to use that, but the coin return button would be cooler.

It's quite a pain to make that a 'button', but I've had a play around and I think it can be done.

Just ordered a hot glue gun and I'll try it as soon as it turns up!

[ChrisBEANS]

So...

Snipped off the wires to the service button and gave them female spade connectors...



Snipped a couple of wires and spade connectors down to size...



Took the coin entry apart and hot glued the wires in place...


(Please excuse the gross mouse mat!!! )

And then it was time to test...

[emphatic]

Nice work.

[ChrisBEANS]

Thanks! I'm pleased with it

[markedkiller78]

Impressive work, I love it

[ChrisBEANS]

The closer I get to being done, the more I find to do...

This thing needs an external volume knob for sure.

Thinking I’ll add an amp on top? Anyone done anything similar?
I saw Scarlet Sprites video on doing something similar, looks straight forward enough.



Also, I’m being extremely picky here, but the corners of the monitor are slightly blurry.

I’ve messed with the pincushion dial, and I’ve researched and found that there are no ‘convergence rings’ (whatever they might be?!) on this monitor, but that stick on magnets may help.

Being as clueless as I am, I just want to double check that using magnets on the back won’t cause any harm or affect colour/contrast in any way as I’ve finally got it dialled in just right...

[Neo Gold]

Awesome progress here Chris....i'm very very impressed!..

[nem]

Being as clueless as I am, I just want to double check that using magnets on the back won’t cause any harm or affect colour/contrast in any way as I’ve finally got it dialled in just right...

Put up the monitor grid in the service menu. Are the colours separating in the corners, can you see red, blue and or green lines?

If the colours are visibly separating, don't use magnets. Look into yoke tabs / strips. I'm sure there's videos on Youtube on how to fix corner convergence.

And if they're not, and it's just blurry, it's likely something you can't fix. You can try rejuvenating the guns with rejuvenator, but it isn't something that will guarantee results.

Also, adjust FOCUS on the flyback if you haven't already. That's something that everyone should do with any CRT monitor they have.

[ChrisBEANS]

Adjusted focus after Grant revived the chassis.

No separation of colours, just a little blurry in the corners. Absolutely something I can live with.

[cools]

Slightly blurry in corners is normal for a CRT.

[ChrisBEANS]

Yeah, all good

Grant’s going to look at the chassis from the U4 too so hopefully that’ll be fixed soon.

Also had an e-mail that the EL panels for the six slot should be here soon too.


Can’t wait. Once the Electrocoin is done I can concentrate on the U4.

[ChrisBEANS]

I may have... (I actually just have)... bought another cab!

Not a project at all this time, maybe some slight cosmetics, but it’s a real fun one and I’m excited

I’ll let you know when it arrives, but in the mean time plenty left to do on these two.

Updates soon I hope

[aerobert]

I have another MVSU4 with a banging like new screen for you if you ever feel the itch.

[ChrisBEANS]

Ha, nice try. If I do decide to take on another U4, one of your countrymen is going to do me a deal on a fixer upper

In all honesty though, once these two are completely sorted, I think I’ll just take my time enjoying the games. Maybe knock up some 1cc videos??



Big update, just dropped the U4 chassis to Grant and when he looked at it it was immediately apparent what’s up.

The board itself is physically cracked, fairly badly, so he’s going to repair all the tracks and hopefully it’ll be good to go!

It’s actually really good news as the fault seemed ambiguous in use, so I was worried it would be hard to track down or rectify...

[aerobert]

Great news!

Yeah, mine is not in best condition (except for the screen). There's wiggle room on the price should you change your mind.

[Neo Gold]

I may have... (I actually just have)... bought another cab!

Not a project at all this time, maybe some slight cosmetics, but it’s a real fun one and I’m excited

I’ll let you know when it arrives, but in the mean time plenty left to do on these two.

Updates soon I hope

Just spotted....another Cab !?....which one, what type?
Great news on your E4...Grant's a top guy with diagnosing your U4 .