Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here
I bought a Double Dragon PCB late 2014 and after a quick glance at google images it looked legit.. and it certainly plays fine..
it's not really my cup of tea so I wanted to trade it with a fellow member and after sending him some pictures he told me that it's a bootleg
can anyone confirm it?
http://imgur.com/a/ogYKa"
it's not really my cup of tea so I wanted to trade it with a fellow member and after sending him some pictures he told me that it's a bootleg
can anyone confirm it?
http://imgur.com/a/ogYKa"
LJN wrote:YOU AND YOUR FRIENDS ARE DEAD.
GAME OVER
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here
yep, bootleg.
I think they play better than the originals. The orig. pcb have a lot of slowdown.
I think they play better than the originals. The orig. pcb have a lot of slowdown.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here
How about this Ninja Baseball Bat man?
Korean version or a bootleg?
Plays great
Korean version or a bootleg?
Plays great
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here
http://www.crazykong.com/pcbs/G%20-%20O ... n.pcb.html" pcb pic looks different than yoursvasilas432 wrote:How about this Ninja Baseball Bat man?
Korean version or a bootleg?
Plays great
http://www.yodel-arcade.blogspot.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.youtube.com/user/Fanaticcism" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.youtube.com/user/Fanaticcism" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here
Of course. In your link it is a Japanese version of Ninja baseball Bat man.turntablism wrote:http://www.crazykong.com/pcbs/G%20-%20O ... n.pcb.html" pcb pic looks different than yoursvasilas432 wrote:How about this Ninja Baseball Bat man?
Korean version or a bootleg?
Plays great
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here
Looks like a licensed Korean version.vasilas432 wrote:How about this Ninja Baseball Bat man?
Korean version or a bootleg?
Plays great
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthrea ... all-Batman"
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here
Thanks a lot for the confirmationyosai wrote:Looks like a licensed Korean version.vasilas432 wrote:How about this Ninja Baseball Bat man?
Korean version or a bootleg?
Plays great
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthrea ... all-Batman"
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
Is this a bootleg ?? at first I thought it was, but now I have some doubts because some components doesn't look cheap. Thanks in advance for the help
The game is Wily Tower (aka Atomic Boy).

The game is Wily Tower (aka Atomic Boy).
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
Looks bootleg to me, there are pcb marks missing, and it is different from an original.
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EXERIZER PCB real original or bootleg?
Hi
I have the trouble finding a real original EXERIZER board. I have been looking for this for about a year now for a reasonable price. The problem is I can't seem to figure out if the board I'm looking at is a real original JALECO PCB or a lame bootleg?
Example this guy here claims he have the original:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171805386312?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
And this guy here says what he has is a bootleg: (I think it's number 8 board showed on his list)
http://blog.system11.org/?p=19
They look the same?
Normally I'm good seeing the fake lame bootlegs on ebay but with EXERIZER it's pretty damn hard..
Can someone help me out on this please?
I have the trouble finding a real original EXERIZER board. I have been looking for this for about a year now for a reasonable price. The problem is I can't seem to figure out if the board I'm looking at is a real original JALECO PCB or a lame bootleg?
Example this guy here claims he have the original:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171805386312?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
And this guy here says what he has is a bootleg: (I think it's number 8 board showed on his list)
http://blog.system11.org/?p=19
They look the same?
Normally I'm good seeing the fake lame bootlegs on ebay but with EXERIZER it's pretty damn hard..

Can someone help me out on this please?
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
I have no idea on the eBay one but James /system11 knows his stuff so I'd take his example of a boot and use it as a guide ,alot of stuff gets listed as genuine on eBay when they are boots

<trk>:I remember catching a big fat one and my friend said "throw it back in, that one already tastes like wood"
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
Yeah that ebay one was a bootleg. A real Exerizer will have Jaleco on the top PCB, like this:
http://blog.system11.org/wp-content/upl ... erizer.jpg
http://blog.system11.org/wp-content/upl ... erizer.jpg
Random blog of stuff:
http://blog.system11.org
http://blog.system11.org
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
What is this board? A conversion or what?
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
Looks like a legit Japanese King of Dragons to me? Some of the eprom labels probably fell off and have been replaced, it's a common issue with these boards.
Marquees: http://spectre.myartsonline.com/
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
Thank you for confirming it is original! Now we have to make it workSpectre wrote:Looks like a legit Japanese King of Dragons to me? Some of the eprom labels probably fell off and have been replaced, it's a common issue with these boards.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
100% original Raiden.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.
For something a bit different...
There's been a bit of an issue in South America with Pump it UP bootlegs, most recently of Prime. (Which came out LAST DECEMBER. Seriously ****?) So, here's a quick overview. I'm in NA and haven't actually seen the bootlegs, but I know the legit stuff well enough to give you pointers.
Disclaimer: I know basically nothing about Pro/Pro2/Infinity other than they were done by different groups and did different things and may not have even been manufactured in the same factories. Thankfully, I'm told bootlegs of Pro2 and Infinity haven't ever been found.
If it's Exceed or newer, and it's on a CD, DEFINITELY a boot. No, worse than a boot. There's a "Prexceed" phenomenon where people have been hacking up MK3 mixes to add songs from later versions and passing it off as a newer mix or even a "new version" that never existed in the first place. Exceed and later are ALWAYS a hard drive + dongle (lock chip in Exceed 1's case).
And of course, the MK3 games themselves were bootlegged to oblivion. I don't know MK3 too well, but if it's a CD-R with an inkjetted label, well, you should know this already. There's a security IC that sits in a socket on a PCB, and then that PCB sits on a header on an I/O board inside the computer. (On MK5 it's actually on the outside, just below the drive bay.) Legit or boot, the IC is socketed. If missing or the game runs with it disconnected, duh. I don't know if these can be faked, though. I imagine bootleggers wouldn't bother.
Now, the juicy stuff, the newer games that run on proper PCs, the kits that are actually worth something. From NX onwards, all legitimate HDDs have a big sticker on them that looks like this. This one is an NX2:

The silver sticker on the right is a hologram of a big capital M inside a circle. Doesn't photograph well, that might be deliberate. I think the number printed on the hologram corresponds with a specific mix but I don't know which are which.
Exceed, Exceed 2, and Zero have a much smaller label with no hologram, basic thermal print thing, would be trivial to reproduce.
Don't go 100% on the label. There's a good chance they changed the label again on me somewhere around Fiesta. But if there's no hologram at all, or not even a label in the first place... big red flag.
For Fiesta and later (and possibly NXA? I'd have to go digging), the version on the label (i.e. V1.50 here) will usually NOT match the version reported in the operator menu. This is normal and expected. The new games are specifically set up to be patched in situ via loading an update from a USB drive and they all have had multiple updates released. Hell, Prime apparently updates on its own if it has an Internet connection. Either way not an indicator, but worth mentioning.
Type of the drive may be an indicator too. Zero and previous were always IDE, NX2 and later are always SATA, NX could be either/or. Brand... all the drives I've seen have been either Samsung or Seagate, but Andamiro has a reputation for switching up hardware based on availability and just random whims. Wouldn't be surprised if they mixed in WD or Fujitsu or whatever at some point.
The dead giveaway, though, is the dongle. NX2 onwards are protected with a SafeNet MicroDog, here's what they look like:

There'll be a sticker on the other side with the mix name and "ANDAMIRO" but it's also very basic and would be trivial to reproduce. SafeNet makes them in multiple colors but I've only ever seen blue on Pump kits.
Exceed 2/Zero/NX used the older USBdog, same blue plastic but smaller and plainer with a tapered shape, like a bullet. "SafeNet" is embossed on one side. These also had labels at one point but they're crap and usually fell off long ago. It's a standard practice to mark them somehow, usually with permanent marker, so you know what mix it's for.
But don't just look at it. Use it. Drop the drive in a machine and boot it without the dongle connected. IIRC it should boot directly to the operator menu, with an error message at the bottom. If you don't get an error message it's DEFINITELY a boot. And if there's no dongle at all, well, I shouldn't have to say it.
Hopefully that gives you what you need to make sure you have the real deal.
For the marquees... it's basically impossible to tell. Original PiU marquees are very similar to the better (but still obvious) bootleg DDR marquees, and they don't have any kind of authenticity marking. I don't think originals are worth anything anyway, unless they're from a VERY old and rare mix, or in very good shape. Haven't really heard of bootleg marquees, to be honest. Seen a lot of machines with a marquee for one mix but actually running a completely different one. I guess nobody cares.
One last thing: if you do come across a Prime bootleg and are thinking about just going with it anyway: don't. I'm told they brick if you try to update them, and it won't go online without the update.
There's been a bit of an issue in South America with Pump it UP bootlegs, most recently of Prime. (Which came out LAST DECEMBER. Seriously ****?) So, here's a quick overview. I'm in NA and haven't actually seen the bootlegs, but I know the legit stuff well enough to give you pointers.
Disclaimer: I know basically nothing about Pro/Pro2/Infinity other than they were done by different groups and did different things and may not have even been manufactured in the same factories. Thankfully, I'm told bootlegs of Pro2 and Infinity haven't ever been found.
If it's Exceed or newer, and it's on a CD, DEFINITELY a boot. No, worse than a boot. There's a "Prexceed" phenomenon where people have been hacking up MK3 mixes to add songs from later versions and passing it off as a newer mix or even a "new version" that never existed in the first place. Exceed and later are ALWAYS a hard drive + dongle (lock chip in Exceed 1's case).
And of course, the MK3 games themselves were bootlegged to oblivion. I don't know MK3 too well, but if it's a CD-R with an inkjetted label, well, you should know this already. There's a security IC that sits in a socket on a PCB, and then that PCB sits on a header on an I/O board inside the computer. (On MK5 it's actually on the outside, just below the drive bay.) Legit or boot, the IC is socketed. If missing or the game runs with it disconnected, duh. I don't know if these can be faked, though. I imagine bootleggers wouldn't bother.
Now, the juicy stuff, the newer games that run on proper PCs, the kits that are actually worth something. From NX onwards, all legitimate HDDs have a big sticker on them that looks like this. This one is an NX2:

The silver sticker on the right is a hologram of a big capital M inside a circle. Doesn't photograph well, that might be deliberate. I think the number printed on the hologram corresponds with a specific mix but I don't know which are which.
Exceed, Exceed 2, and Zero have a much smaller label with no hologram, basic thermal print thing, would be trivial to reproduce.
Don't go 100% on the label. There's a good chance they changed the label again on me somewhere around Fiesta. But if there's no hologram at all, or not even a label in the first place... big red flag.
For Fiesta and later (and possibly NXA? I'd have to go digging), the version on the label (i.e. V1.50 here) will usually NOT match the version reported in the operator menu. This is normal and expected. The new games are specifically set up to be patched in situ via loading an update from a USB drive and they all have had multiple updates released. Hell, Prime apparently updates on its own if it has an Internet connection. Either way not an indicator, but worth mentioning.
Type of the drive may be an indicator too. Zero and previous were always IDE, NX2 and later are always SATA, NX could be either/or. Brand... all the drives I've seen have been either Samsung or Seagate, but Andamiro has a reputation for switching up hardware based on availability and just random whims. Wouldn't be surprised if they mixed in WD or Fujitsu or whatever at some point.
The dead giveaway, though, is the dongle. NX2 onwards are protected with a SafeNet MicroDog, here's what they look like:

There'll be a sticker on the other side with the mix name and "ANDAMIRO" but it's also very basic and would be trivial to reproduce. SafeNet makes them in multiple colors but I've only ever seen blue on Pump kits.
Exceed 2/Zero/NX used the older USBdog, same blue plastic but smaller and plainer with a tapered shape, like a bullet. "SafeNet" is embossed on one side. These also had labels at one point but they're crap and usually fell off long ago. It's a standard practice to mark them somehow, usually with permanent marker, so you know what mix it's for.
But don't just look at it. Use it. Drop the drive in a machine and boot it without the dongle connected. IIRC it should boot directly to the operator menu, with an error message at the bottom. If you don't get an error message it's DEFINITELY a boot. And if there's no dongle at all, well, I shouldn't have to say it.
Hopefully that gives you what you need to make sure you have the real deal.
For the marquees... it's basically impossible to tell. Original PiU marquees are very similar to the better (but still obvious) bootleg DDR marquees, and they don't have any kind of authenticity marking. I don't think originals are worth anything anyway, unless they're from a VERY old and rare mix, or in very good shape. Haven't really heard of bootleg marquees, to be honest. Seen a lot of machines with a marquee for one mix but actually running a completely different one. I guess nobody cares.
One last thing: if you do come across a Prime bootleg and are thinking about just going with it anyway: don't. I'm told they brick if you try to update them, and it won't go online without the update.
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