A very green owner of an Egret 2 here (and new to the home arcade hobby as well), so please forgive me in advance if I sound clueless. I'm experiencing some issues with the monitor. I only have one PCB so far (CPS2 Marvel vs Capcom), so I can't test with any other boards, but the problem also manifests itself when I just have the cab turned on without a PCB. Anyway, the issue is that the image starts getting squeezed together... and usually a "dead" border on the right appears where the picture isn't getting displayed. The screen will sometimes flick back and forth between looking fine, and then the squeezed image with the dead side. It's not extremely severe, but suffice to say, something I'd love to get fixed! Btw, I have adjusted the cab's voltage. I hope you guys have an idea of what the problem might be. Thank you in advance.
Thanks for the welcome. Well, I guess I should have been more specific. I measured the voltage via the JAMMA, and turned it slightly up using the blue pots. It was a bit low before-hand, the 12v were only giving 10v. I did this shortly after receiving the cab, though and wasn't done to try and fix the monitor problem.
important to note that a jamma game is not that dependant on the +12,as long as its between 11.5 and 12.9 then its good
the important voltage is +5 which should range around 5.05 and 5.10 at the jamma connector
sounds like you may have a bad solder joint on the monitor chassis or capacitor failure,what monitor chassis is it?
What's the easiest way to determine the chassis type? Btw, when I try to move the image with the horizontal adjuster into the "dead" area the picture appears to roll over itself... kind of hard to explain. Anything else I can check? I guess it would be hard for me to fix the soldering myself, since I'm not expert, but as long as I could narrow down the problem it would be a step in the right direction, I guess. Again, thanks for answering Grant!
if you take a photo i can tell you what you have
i am sure most egret 2 have nanao ms9-29a chassis but i could be wrong
that foldover depending on how the monitor is mounted could point towards feedback in the vertical or horizontal frame circuit
i guess you have adjusted the hold pot
I think I'll try recording a video of the problem. I'm pretty sure it's a standard Egret 2 monitor... looks like the ones I've seen on pictures and what not. The monitor is mounted horizontally, and I haven't tated it around since I got it... nor have I touched the 2 (or 3?) pots on the backside of the monitor, I was told to be careful around them. I basically haven't done a whole lot of internal adjusting to the cab (besides the voltage) ever since I got it due to the fact that I'm a newbie and haven't felt knowledgeable or confident enough to start doing anything.
Okay, I took some pics and a video of the problem.
Here is the "dead" border side:
This is the monitor... are you able to identify the brand with this?
Here's a video. The problem won't manifest itself right off the bat, but usually appears after a few minutes or so. In time it gets even more warped that it looks like on the video... and it flickers between expanding all the way out and this dead border, so yeah, it's a bit hard to live with. http://www.mediafire.com/?nnume4vljhd
Welcome to the forum. What Grant wants is a picture of the circuit board that attaches to the monitor tube you have pictured. The geometry problem you have shown is a pincushion problem. If this wouldn't adjust and remained constant it would likely be an electrolytic capacitor. As the problem comes and goes is it just likely to be a dry solder problem somewhere??
well a picture of the tube means nothing,if you need to id a monitor then take a photo of the monitor board which is in the back of the cab
most likely problem you have a bad solder joint on the monitor chassis,you would need to know what you are doing and what you are looking for to fix this safely
i did have a very similar problem on a nanao ms8-29fan a few days back and it was a leaky cap
The next step is up to you really. You would need to remove this board (chassis) and look for the problem. Grant will very likely have a schematic diagram and could possibly help by pointing you in teh right general area to look. A bad solder joint is likely to be the problem. As you have described the problem seems to be present when the monitor board has warmed up. You may visually see the problem. It could be a leaky capacitor as Grant has said. Or even the leg of a capacitor. Be warned though that the black rubber plug that goes into the monitor tube via a thick (probably red) lead attaches to the tube which holds considerable voltage even when off. A more modern monitor like this has bleed resistors that SHOULD discharge the monitor itself. However you would still need to discharge it manually to be sure.
If you are not confident with dealing with the problem then you could remove this chassis and post it off to be repaired. Craig at giz10p is a viable option in the UK but postage could be a killer. His rate of 2 years ago was £35 plus parts. This may have changed of course.
Okay, so it seems as if the problem might lie with the chassis itself? I guess it would be best to first to contact the guy who sold the cab to me and see what's up. Not sure I'm confident, or knowledgeable rather, enough to do any real repair work myself... maybe I can find someone in Denmark that knows something.
Yeah there may be someone near to you that can do the repair. It won't be a might though, the problem definitely lies with the chassis. I don't see a possibility of anything else. Occasionally visual faults can be gameboard problems but more than likely graphical glitches etc.. A lot of chassis' have a pincushion adjustment pot on them. Moving this would create your problem on both sides. As yours corrects itself adjusting this would be to no avail. The scariest part however is removing the chassis from the tube. Something you would need to do if you were to send the board for repair, given nobody local enough to sort it.
Unless you can live with it. I don't think I could though it would draw my eyes to it whilst playing.
Yeah, I guess the best option is to see if I can find someone who can take a look at it. I definitely want it fixed... I didn't purchase the thing to be unhappy with it! Btw, I can temporarily "fix" the problem by giving the cab a very soft thud, so I don't know... maybe something is loose or such? Anyway, thanks a lot for answering my questions so far guys.
smacking the side of the cab is a good way to prove you have a bad solder connection,not a good way to cure it.
you should read up on soldering and inspection for bad solder joints,very rarely do i bother to remove a chassis to resolder-i tend to access the underside of the chassis and do the job
I've spoken to the seller about the problem and he strongly suspects that it is the soldering on right side of the chassis (with the 2 pots) that needs to be re-soldered, since that part of the chassis often gets warmed up over the years. Do you guys have any general tips of soldering and what not? What about discharging the monitor? I haven't done a lot of this stuff before, but the seller has promised that I would get a new chassis if I screw up.
hmmm,monitors are not exactly the first thing i would give a novice/trainee to work on
you need to read up on soldering and discharging/removing a monitor chassis
I'm experiencing some issues with the monitor. I only have one PCB so far (CPS2 Marvel vs Capcom), so I can't test with any other boards, but the problem also manifests itself when I just have the cab turned on without a PCB. Anyway, the issue is that the image starts getting squeezed together... and usually a "dead" border on the right appears where the picture isn't getting displayed. The screen will sometimes flick back and forth between looking fine, and then the squeezed image with the dead side. It's not extremely severe, but suffice to say, something I'd love to get fixed! Btw, I have adjusted the cab's voltage. I hope you guys have an idea of what the problem might be. Thank you in advance.
Btw, when I try to move the image with the horizontal adjuster into the "dead" area the picture appears to roll over itself... kind of hard to explain. Anything else I can check? I guess it would be hard for me to fix the soldering myself, since I'm not expert, but as long as I could narrow down the problem it would be a step in the right direction, I guess. Again, thanks for answering Grant! 
