I knew thats not the best way, to ask for somthing the first time on a forum.
Emphatic was a little bit wrong, i dont have access to a laser cutter.
I have waterjet and punch machine.
With the waterjet machine i can cut in allmost any materials.
Yesterday i was planning to cut a controlpanel i the waterjet machine.
After a while in the cut prosses the machine broke.
Now it will take a while to get it fixed.
Sorry guys, I've been meaning to do this for ages but I had the files stored on an old computer and it's taken a while to get to them and get everything sorted.
I've got it all sorted now though and I've updated the OP with a link to the files.
The 2L16B shouldn't be too much of a problem as I can get the extra button dimensions from slagcoin. I don't have access to any other panels but I'm happy to model them up if anyone has the panels and can take dimensions from them.
These files are amazing. Just one doubt, what about the back? We need to weld the Splate or screwws to receive the sanwa stick. Anybody knows the meassure for that?
I am going to use these to cut some panels, any idea about the original panel thickness?
Amazing those self clinch studs! Never seen that. Do you need a lot of force to stick them in place? From the picture the don't seem strong enough for the dents penetrate stainless steel.
Thanks!
BTW How big do you do the holes for those screws? Exactly 4mm, or a tad smaller?
Yes, you do need to be able to apply a decent amount of force to fit them. You might get away with using a small fly press for fitting them in mild steel panels but you might need a larger manual or pneumatic press for installing them in stainless sheets.
The hole tolerance is generally +/-0.08mm. The holes can be drilled or ideally punched. You need to select the right material grade of studs as they need to be harder than the material they are being installed in. If you're using a ~ 304 stainless grade then you're looking at approx 90HRB and so you want to use the 400 series or equivalent. I would recommend getting your panels made at a fabrication shop opposed to just at a laser cutters as they should be able to handle all this for you.
The studs penetrate the panel and deform the material as they pass though which grips the studs. The studs also have radial teeth which provide torsional resistance. They are more than strong enough to bolt some joysticks to
This video shows the install a little better.
I had some panels made with spot welded studs and some made with self clinch studs and I much prefer the self clinch studs.
One Question, Is that galvanized or stainless steel? I've seen somepeople paint or cover the CP with some material before sticking the overlay. Is it necessary?
Looks like the brushed stainless steal I suggested in my last post. You don´t have to paint it, just when you like another color . The overlay will perfectly stick to it.