I haven't yet picked up the primer, paint, control panel overlay, buttons or sticks so we will come back to the CP at a later date.
Now to remove and dismantle the monitor surround plastic
Overall Naomi cabs feel well built and very solid, verging on over engineered but this area stands out as the weak link, it really is quite flimsy and it's such a large piece too, so handle this area with care. It is very common for this area to be yellowed, scratched, have the remains of move stickers have some cracking and worst of all be covered in fag burns. It would have been much better if it was thick plastic like what the control panel upper and lower areas are made from.
The tools that you will need for dismantling this area are:
Screwdriver with a few interchangeable heads (Pozi heads 1 & 2, Star security bit T30)
Firstly remove the 2 screws (pozi head) that hold the monitor surround plastic to the control panel base.
Next remove the 4 screen caps (NOA-1006) these can be slid out once you have pressed the little tab that snap them in place. Just be careful as the tabs seem pretty fragile.
Now remove the 4 chrome star security screws (star security T30 bit)
The plastic will now be free.
Now to strip it down
First of all remove both of the VMU lids (NOA-1506) just squeeze the tabs
Secondly remove the GCS Lid (NOA-1505) it's held in place by 5 screws (pozi)
Now remove the perspex knightrider light strip and the refracting perspex sheet, they are held in place 4 screws (pozi)
Finally remove the monitor mask/bezel this is held in place by 6 screws (pozi)
FACTOID
There are 3 different monitor masks/bezels so if you are replacing yours make sure if you get the correct one.
(NOA-1502-01) for use with Nanao MS-2932 monitors, Will also fit: Nanao MS8-29 & / MS9-29.
(NOA-1502-02) for use with Sanwa 29E31S monitors. Will also fit: Nanao MS-2930 / MS-2931 / MS-2934.
(NOA-1502-03) for use with true flat monitors.
Now to get on with cleaning it I did pretty much the same as I had done with the CP upper.
I removed the sticker residue with lighter fluid.
I washed it with warm soapy water. I used an old toothbrush to get into all the nooks and crannies and a kitchen sponge for the flat areas.
I used 1200 grit wet and dry to try to remove the fag burns these were far too deep for polish to touch, this worked out quite nicely. I also used the same grit to remove some very bad scratches/gouges too. How well this will work out for you totally depends on how bad the burns/scratches/gouges are. You will almost always be able to improve the look of burns and gouges as they are usually a bit like a moon crater (a mound with a hole in the centre) even if you only remove the mound you will still be left with a hole but it's still a big improvement. Depending on the hole you may be able to work it out with a fine grit and then polish it up.
Then I polished with T-cut.
I quickly polished the whole area with stainless steel cleaner. At this point I had spent a good 4 1/2 - 5 hours on this area and TBH I had, had enough of cleaning and polishing for one day so I will give this a more thorough going over with the stainless steel cleaner and with Novus 3>2>1 at some point next week.
These are finished (washed, T-cut, Polished, Novus 3>2.1)
In this Photograph it still requires polishing properly with stainless steel cleaner then Novus 3>2>1. I put it all back together as I was worried about breaking it as it's even more flimsy when the bezel has been removed.
I did my first Naomi last year, but unfortunatly someone had screwed something to the front of the cp upper....so I had no choice but to spray it...not overly pleased with the finish I got (yours looks WAY better) so I might have to try again this year! (or take it to a car repair shop!) 
when are you painting the cp?
Man, you got cleaning skills!
