Nice blog, You mention you have done CPS3 carts live. Do you use a standard soldering iron and what is your success rate? I have a 3rd strike that is over due a battery change and do not want to buy a special soldering iron......... Unless I really have to.
Nice blog, You mention you have done CPS3 carts live. Do you use a standard soldering iron and what is your success rate? I have a 3rd strike that is over due a battery change and do not want to buy a special soldering iron......... Unless I really have to.
Cheers.
I ve done both HSFA and 3RD Strike while running on a super gun to 100% strike rate
"Once your needs are met you realize you no longer need them"
MrSandman wrote:Now...how can you tell a Capcom-Conversion from a Conversion ?
Aren't the B-Boards (without the EPROMs) same regardless of the game?
So the only difference then would be the game/sound/graphic roms, would't it?
I'm certain I heard of at least one exception where the game uses EPROMs for the sound samples and graphics, but 99.9% of the time if you have EPROMs in sockets 11 to 20 then you have a bootleg conversion on your hands.
Some revision of blue super turbo, all blue progears and all sports club use eproms as their primary storage media.
Afternoon guys, I'm considering getting my hands on this R-Type board. While I was originally looking for a clean, unrepaired and original board - they don't pop up that often. What are your thoughts on this one? Is it an original or conversion? And is it normal to have so many eeproms replaced?
r-type.jpg
rtype_2nd.jpg
Cheers,
Cedric
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
There is a possibility that it's a conversion but it does look like RT on the original EPROM labels. If the pic wasn't taken with a **** iPhone it might not have been so blurred.