List of compatible tubes?

[emphatic]

A thread over at arcadecontrols.com gave me an idea. Is there a database for TV parts that lists the pinout and yoke values of popular CRT sets that could be adapted to our needs?

I just noticed (it took me a couple of years to though) that my Nanao MS9 does have a slight INSERT COIN burn-in across the middle of the screen. Not a big deal, but if a fitting tube should appear for cheap, it would be very nice to get it and put it aside for later insertion into my EGRET II for if/when the currently installed tube starts to fade out.

The monitors that grant had for £50 a while back, they were converted TV sets, were they not?

It would be a great addition to the wiki, looking something like this:

NANAO MS8/MS9: ...........................Panasonic (serial no, serial no, serial no) | LG (serial no), etc.
HANTAREX POLO 25: ........................Philips (serial no, serial no), Samsung (serial no)

Also, aren't TV sets supposed to be A grade tubes, and arcade monitor B or even C grade tubes, had for cheap from the factories?

[grantspain]

those monitors were dedicated 15khz monitors-ceronix 27"-used mainly in bowling alley overheads

tv's are A grade and arcade monitors tend to be b or c grade-correct

yokes are the main concern but heater voltage is also an issue with crts

most tv's are 15khz compatible except trinitron

most dual syncs are 0.300mh horizontal yoke inductance as are most tri syncs BUT thats not always the case

[emphatic]

Cheers. So, Triniton, is this because they are 100hz, and if so, does this make all 100hz TV's "unfit for duty".

Edit:
Some gents over at arcadecontrols posted these link:
http://www.junknet.net/index.php?option ... Itemid=121"
http://www.vidiot.ca/montube.php"

[Wurstkopp]

Trinitrons won't work because they have totally different tubes. Sony has an own tube manufaction. The neckboards for example won't match at all.

I tested and measured out a few tubes out of TVs and broadcast monitors a while back, mostly 29" ones. It seems that the horizontal inductance is always around 1,5 mH (TV), way too high for a Nanao chassis for example.

There are a few tri/quad-sync broadcast monitors (NEC, Mitsubishi and Panasonic), that vaguely match the readings of a 15/234 Nanao chassis, but these monitors are rare and not really cheap so they're no really alternative.

This one was coming out of a cheap Toshiba 2929DD TV (which has at least the same curvature as an MS8 or 9):

Tube: A68KLF96X02
RH: 2,1 Ω
RV: 6,9 Ω
LH: 1,5 mH
LV: 18,8 mH

[dieKatze88]

I think one of the better questions would be what random chassis from various trisync monitors would fit existing 15khz monitors, specifically the MS9, seeing as everybody and their brother has one, and the 666 chassis is almost as much as a brand new PFX -_-

[zorahk]

MS2930, MS2931, MS2932, MS2934 are all compatible with each other's tubes.

[Wurstkopp]

The 666a chassis fits the MS9-tube but imo its pure crap. The 15 k geometry is a **** joke. Experiments with magnet strips on the back result in a **** up convergence and if you finally have a good setup and tate the screen its **** up again.

I would give my left arm to replace burned MS9-tubes with class A TV-tubes, but it seems nobody has a real solution so far.

[cools]

the 666 chassis is almost as much as a brand new PFX -_-

From where?

[dieKatze88]

the 666 chassis is almost as much as a brand new PFX -_-

From where?

To buy and ship a **** chassis from giz10p to the united states, It costs about 450USD. I could have a PFX for 550 last I checked.

The real bitch of it is that other monitors with trisync chassis are still expensive, but unlike aftermarket and used parts for the MS9, their repair and replacement parts are much cheaper.

[cools]

Yeah, but try getting a PFX for that price within the UK

You have the monitors, we have the chassis!

[Devil Soundwave]

Perhaps another route would be to collectively design a standardised sync splitter circuit built into a little box so that we can just use any 29 inch tv tube and it's *original* chassis in our machines... ?

[penrhos]

Why not get a TV tube and do a yoke swap.

All you need is to decode the tube reference number for curvature etc and nuber of pins on the neck and swap them over....

I did one a few years ago and while not perfect it was acceptable.

[Devil Soundwave]

I did one a few years ago and while not perfect...

Think that's kinda the main reason.

[penrhos]

But it was my first attempt and I didn't know what I was doing at the time.

corner convergence was out and picture wasn't quite square - I'm sure I could get it better now I know more & Grant/Craig/Andy could probably get it a lot better.

[zorahk]

Katze you're just looking in the wrong places. Alva amusements sells that chassis domestically for 180 usd. Not bad right?

[Wurstkopp]

Perhaps another route would be to collectively design a standardised sync splitter circuit built into a little box so that we can just use any 29 inch tv tube and it's *original* chassis in our machines... ?

You don't need a sync splitter, usually a 50/60 Hz TV with scart accepts composite sync. Nonetheless the picture of a Nanao/Sanwa/Tosh/Toei arcade screen is much nicer than a TV.

All you need is to decode the tube reference number for curvature etc and nuber of pins on the neck and swap them over....

So thats it? I maybe try this out. Got a MS9 tube with the deepest burns ever seen. Nothing much to loose.

[emphatic]

Here is an interesting modification done by UncleTom (is a member on here from lovely Sweden): http://hornet.homeftp.net/technical/hellmod/"

I've also noticed that Japandeal Webshop has some very cheap neck boards available. I don't have the required space to store spare tubes for these kind of shenanigans, but I would really like to see someone succeed when trying it out.

[uncletom]

Aha, this is a really interesting thread!

When you swap a CRT you always use the yoke provided with your previous CRT. Never trash a yoke. The CRT is part of your monitor's circuit in a different way than the yoke. The yoke is often very customized to the design with all the correct values, impedance and inductance.

You can use a trashed TV that you find in your local recycling terminal. You should look for a 29" CRT, 28" will also work *if* certain parameters agree, like Granspain says; heater voltage and pinout of the CRT neck. Most 28 and 29" CRTs are alike. They often use color-pins (RG and B cathodes) on pins 6,8,11 with G2 on pin7, heaters on 9 and 10. Så you need to check the old neckboard to see what pinout that particular CRT has. In many cases there is print on the neckboard that states the pin functions. Or you can check pins 6,8 and 11 to see where they go. Cathodes have fat resistors and a transistor before them, sort of a final amp-stage to the color guns. Easy. There you have your colors. If you cannot switch on the TV to measure the heaters, you can hope that your MS9 chassi has it correctly. However, if there's too much glow in the neck, you can change the resistor on the neckbord to lower och boost that voltage. Normally there is only 6,3 or 12 Volt to the heaters. I think usually the 29" CRT has 6,3V.

I didn't know that C-grade tubes existed. How is the picture quality?

[penrhos]

I've bookmarked a few websites for tube/yoke swaps that provide good info..

http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/tubeswap/tubeswap.html"

http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html"

http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscell ... crtfaq.htm"

http://www.coinop.org/repair/Monitor_Tubeswap.aspx"

http://www.arcaderestoration.com/"

Anyone got the tube reference decoding key?

I know A68 = 68 cm = 29" A63 = 63 cm = 25" - I know some of the other numbers describe the pin layouts & heater voltages.

[Wurstkopp]

Good infos, guys. So if I'm correct you first have to have the same deflection angle like the old crt, I think the MS9 has 90 degrees. After that you have to check if the crt necks are equally wired and measure the heaters. Then you exchange the yoke and finally adjust the screen with the purity rings.

Seems not easy but worth a try.