Supergun (MAK strike) Kick Harness question

[Scaffa]

Hey all,

I've been putting together a supergun setup for some of the FG tournaments that get run in South Wales, so i've been doing alot of reading on the setups and the like. However I've got one question that I can't seem to find an answer to and i'm still waiting on a reply from the retailer.

I've ordered the MAK strike supergun from arcade-forge (as i've used some stuff from him before and it always worked fine), this one; http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteuro ... ucts_id=54

However i'm a bit confused as to where the kick harness comes in. I understand I need a harness coming from the CPS2/3 board going to the supergun, and that's usually just a connector. On this however the guys used screw terminals which has thrown me off a bit.



Anyone know what I have to do?

[crunchywasp]

Your kick harness should have 6 signal cables (P1 & P2 LK, MK & HK) and 2 grounds. Strip the ends of the signal cables (ends opposite the CPS2/3 connector) then feed them into the corresponding terminals in your supergun. It should be ok without hooking the grounds up providing that all 6 buttons share a ground inside the controller/stick.

I'm not sure what the pinout of your MAK Strike is (logically it'd be P1 LK, MK, HK from left to right above the P1 controller port & ditto for P2? Best to email the manufacturers if you can't find it online) but the CPS2/3 kick harness pinout can be found here:

http://www.jammaboards.com/guides/CPS2- ... nstall.pdf"

Hope this helps

[Scaffa]

Another question, I'd asked for the PSU to be wired up with a UK plug - apparently this got lost in translation or something.

Anyways, this is the PSU that arrived;



Wired up to this plug;



Can I just plug that into a little Europe to UK adaptor and i'm good to go?

Also, is it possible to just chop the end off and wire it into a UK plug head?

[FrancoB]

You should be able to use an adaptor or you could chop it off and put a UK plug on.

It looks like there may be a switch inside the PSU to set it to run off ~110v or ~230v. Before plugging it it I would make sure it's set to ~230v.

[Scaffa]

I won't go in to detail but "woops". Looks like I need a new PSU.

[FrancoB]

Eeek

What happened?

[Scaffa]

Plugged it in, LED went on then flickered and died.

What's more likely the entire unit being dead or the fuse popped?

[Scaffa]

Ok it was the fuse inside the PSU.

I've wired it up now with a UK plug lead (3A fuse), but the fuse inside the PSU i'm not too sure what to replace with.

It has F3AL250V written on it, so is that a 20mm 3A?

[FrancoB]

F = Fast Acting (Quick Blow)
3A = 3 Amps
L = Low Breaking Capacity (Glass)

Maplins do a 3.15A quick blow one [here] that would be suitable, it's item GJ94C

[Scaffa]

Thanks for the help.

Also i'm too childish not to laugh at "quick blow" especially right above your sig.

[FrancoB]

You're welcome.

[Hewitson]

I'm not too comfortable with the way that power supply is wired up...

- Ridiculously thin wire. If a board drew a lot of current that +5v wire could catch on fire.

- Only one wire for each voltage.

- Incorrect terminals used.

[thegreathopper]

Dont forget to alter the 100-240 dip, it is often a little switch that slides to change the voltage.