Remote for 15/24kHz switching on Nanao MS9

[pubjoe]

Yes, I did notice that as well. After I had clicked the BIN-button. So if you want some stuff, I would be able to provide ya.

Hey that's cool, nice one. I'll wait untill you update this thread once you get them then.

And yeah, thank you from me too, to everyone who helped on this. (Nice thread emphatic )

[emphatic]

Yes, I did notice that as well. After I had clicked the BIN-button. So if you want some stuff, I would be able to provide ya.

Hey that's cool, nice one. I'll wait untill you update this thread once you get them then.

And yeah, thank you from me too, to everyone who helped on this. (Nice thread emphatic )

The best thing is that I can actually test this before any of you lot has to do anything. So if it works, you will get instructions, and if it for some reason doesn't work, I will have some nice Christmas decorations made from JST connectors.

[ckong]

The best thing is that I can actually test this before any of you lot has to do anything. So if it works, you will get instructions, and if it for some reason doesn't work, I will have some nice Christmas decorations made from JST connectors.

[emphatic]

I draw up a schematic. Looks right, does it not?

[ckong]

yes, that's 100% correct.

[emphatic]

Great. Than I'll leave the attachment for future reference to be enjoyed by generations of Nanao owners to come.

[pubjoe]

What happens if the kHz are switched while the monitor is on? Are we talking serious danger?

I'm just thinking it might be best for me to have an accessable jumper rather than an actual switch as then I wouldn't be tempted to accidently switch it in the future.

...Even if I know not to touch it, I just don't like the idea of a 'blow up cab' switch being attached, if you know what I mean.

Maybe if it can be fitted in such a way that it's physically impossible to switch it while the main switch is set to 'on'.

[emphatic]

What happens if the kHz are switched while the monitor is on? Are we talking serious danger?

I'm just thinking it might be best for me to have an accessable jumper rather than an actual switch as then I wouldn't be tempted to accidently switch it in the future.

...Even if I know not to touch it, I just don't like the idea of a 'blow up cab' switch being attached, if you know what I mean.

Maybe if it can be fitted in such a way that it's physically impossible to switch it while the main switch is set to 'on'.

I've been pondering this as well... I posted a question on a Swedish forum about the actual switch I was gonna use, and someone said I should be careful as there could be high voltages involved. So I guess a jump cable it is. Or, build it into a little safe that can only be accessed when no power is running through the cab. Pentagon style.

[DandySephy]

Or, build it into a little safe that can only be accessed when no power is running through the cab. Pentagon style.

On the e2, you could mount it under the cab near the power switch

[emphatic]

Or, build it into a little safe that can only be accessed when no power is running through the cab. Pentagon style.

On the e2, you could mount it under the cab near the power switch

\o

[Shady994]

As long as the switch is rated as well as the JST connectors I can't see how there would be a problem. If its just switching between different sync circuits I doubt there will be anything particularly high voltage going on there.

Not sure if this should be switched while the monitor is on though. It's probably best not to, if in doubt.

[emphatic]

As long as the switch is rated as well as the JST connectors I can't see how there would be a problem. If its just switching between different sync circuits I doubt there will be anything particularly high voltage going on there.

Not sure if this should be switched while the monitor is on though. It's probably best not to, if in doubt.

Yes, I really doubt anything would melt from those wires. I tell you this, it won't be me trying that switch with the cab turned on...

[DandySephy]

Nor me, I only just got it!

[pubjoe]

That leaves me then.

[emphatic]

I have some parcels waiting for me at the post office. This might be the connectors from Korea, so with some luck, I will have a working switch to install this week. Luckily, I have some nice thick wires that I can use, now I just need some nice "garden variety" 4 pin connectors to use in the end of them...

[emphatic]

Aaaaaaaand... voilá!







Tomorrow I guess I will have some time to double-check my work then finally the moment we've been all (all three of us interested) try 'em.

Edit: I might mention that I used a D-Sub housing with a carved out D-Sub connector to get the connector that neat. I can recommend using them for this, fits like a glove.

[pubjoe]

Good job. Nice to see this (nearly) become reality.

lol @ 'all 3 of us', but tbh, I reckon there will be a lot of people that, when they see what their dual sync is capable of, would love the ability to actually get the extra use out of it (without all the scary chassis fiddling everytime).

[ckong]

Impressed I am

That really looks great, you really did a very nice job with that harnas. Can't wait for you to test it.

Wait, I smell money here, would you consider to make a few of them and to sell it to the ones interested. I would take one or two as I know I can't make them that nice.

If not, no problem of course, I will just have to do my best.

[emphatic]

Well... They do look nice, but due to nerves or something, I did not successfully test my harness today. Did I plug them in? Why, yes. Did I get a quality picture? Nope. I quickly realized while doing this that I was on thin ice. Here's my story.....

What I did wrong was:
a) I wrongly believed that I would be able to reach the connectors on the chassis without unscrewing it from the shelf in the cabinet
b) As I didn't really see what I was doing, I had no real control over which connector was 15 and which was 24kHz
c) When I had finally detached the chassis and got the connectors well within reach, I connected my black harness to the 24khz believing it was 15kHz

As I turned on the cabinet, the monitor did make a pretty scary sound when I started it, so I assumed something was wrong and immediately turned it off again to avoid damage. This lead me to believe that the cable wasn't working OR that I had my picture source (the UVC) running the wrong resolution.

Anyway, I then plugged the jumper cable into the chassis connector for 24kHz (believing it was 15kHz) and plugged in my trusty Football Champ PCB. The only picture I could get then had huge scan lines, which finally made me realize that I was working with the 24Khz. Back in with the UVC, set to 24kHz. Pot tweaking galore, and voilá, a very nice 24kHz picture.

This ain't over folks, I just need to connect it CORRECT next time. I do believe that the added length of the wire does affect the sync frequency, so there will be some tweaking needed, at least when you connect the harness the first time, and possible when switching between frequencies.



At the moment, I'm running the UVC in 24kHz with DDP-DOJ BL Extra, and it's looking fabulous. Only 1 more week 'til Futari comes out.

[ckong]

Oeps, a little mistake I'm glad that no damage occured. Actually very brave of you to post this. And very nice to hear that the 24Khz picture through the UVC is faboulous. I hope to see some more pics.