my snk candy 18 project

[supergoose]

Sounds fine to me, tho it could be 200yen

thanks, mate. yen might be better, but euro coins are more practical and my coin mech might have been missing a few pieces anyway. afterall, it was the only thing that was still in the empty cab, when i bought it.

unfortunately, i don't have the time (and tools) to work on the panel at the moment as i have to focus on getting done with uni asap.

[emphatic]

I don't really agree with the text placement. Some space between the rows of text please. Then I will do this ->

[maxio098ui]

Isn't there a cent symbol? I especially like the state of the cab when it cleaned up. metal is nice.

[supergoose]

i was asked to post an update over at n-g.com, so i made a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5o28ZpvayM"

[emphatic]

i was asked to post an update over at n-g.com, so i made a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5o28ZpvayM"

That looks great! The SLG3000 really is a wonderful piece of work.

[supergoose]

would a 21" lcd work in this? Or would that be too big to fit?

i'm sure it would fit in there, but you might not be able to see the outer edges of the screen. the blue stripe on the glas that covers the monitor is covering a bit of the screen even with a 20".

i had to get rid of a piece of wood that i kept under the bed, so here's a little update:









the wood was cut by hand, btw. the only power tool that i currently own is a drill.
it's not as nice as Franco's pcb holder, i know.

and a pic of the modded slg3000:

[FrancoB]

It looks great, nice and neat

[emphatic]

How is the SLG3000 modded and why?

[supergoose]

thanks, Franco.

How is the SLG3000 modded and why?

many complained that you can't put the slg on pcb feet because the only holes in the pcb are blocked by some metal bits that are probably there to hold the surface mounted d-sub connectors in place. also, there's a wire from two of those bits to gnd on the pcb.

i removed most of the metal bits and soldered the gnd wire to the side of the d-sub connector.







easy fix, really.

[PrincessPrinPrin]

It seems that practically all the non-professionals that are designing PCBs lately are obsessed with small size at the cost of sacrificing mounting holes.

And if I ever buy that thing, I'll sure replace the female VGA input port with a male one so I can plug it directly into the converter.

[supergoose]

I'll sure replace the female VGA input port with a male one so I can plug it directly into the converter.

i got a few 30 cm long vga cables instead. that way i'll be able to use the xbox and a pc with the slg, too.

[supergoose]

[thomj]

painted the card silver eh? Nice touch

[supergoose]

yep. it almost looks and feels like real metal.

[supergoose]

i was asked how i made my new control panel so here goes ...

i got the hole punch and sheet metal off ebay. the sheet metal was cut to the right size by the seller. 51cm x 11cm. cost me a bit less than 5€ plus postage.
don't buy stainless as it's a bitch to work with and can ruin even hss drill bits, btw.





next step: transferring the layout.





drilling the hole. if it's off by a mm or two, then use a file and all is good.



install the hole punch.



then i used a lego brick to make sure that the punch was exactly where i wanted it to be.



next step. wood to make sure that the panel won't bend when making the holes.





one of the most important steps. the mounts for the joystick. i don't know anyone who could have welded it properly and i didn't want any visible holes, so i had to think of something else. i used wood. drilled holes and then used epoxy to glue in some sinkhead screws. once the epoxy was cured i used even more epoxy to glue the wood with the screws to the panel. looks **** and unprofessional but works well ... enough.





take your time and make sure that everything lines up!





one side is a bit smaller to make sure that screw in buttons will fit.





the coin entry bit:



group shot. i still think that testing the layout with the cardboard panel was a good idea. would have never thought that it would hold up as well as it did.





these are the tools that i had and used:



and when i was done i broke out the trusty old vorwerk vacuum cleaner and everything was back to normal.



hope this helps.

[emphatic]

The outcome is very nice. Do you have an overlay coming?

[Eiko]

Thanks for the pics (and for the comments)
This will be useful to me

[supergoose]

Do you have an overlay coming?

unfortunately not, no. mcs is down and one of our german members can't have my artwork printed atm. i don't think that there's a local company that is able and willing to help me out either. (i once had some artwork for my furniture printed locally and the result was terrible. terrible looking and expensive.)

do you know someone who could print this kind of stuff and ship to germany?

other than that i'm really happy that i finally found some m4 carriage bolts on ebay.

[supergoose]

today's progress ...

i remembered this thread on the german arcadezentrum boards and gave up on spraypaint.





found out that the old fashioned way is much easier, faster, cleaner, and more efficient. also, it doesn't smell nearly as bad and the paint seems to be more durable, too.

this is the paint that i bought:



2 liters are enough for a candy cab and you can get it on ebay for about 26€ shipped (within germany). i didn't want to wait and paid the in store price of about 36€.

only downside is that it leaves a bit of a textured surface but the original paint wasn't 100% smooth either. i could have used paint thinner, but didn't want to. actually, i have a powdercoated bicycle frame and fork that look worse.

if you're thinking about painting your own cab and don't happen to have access to a professional paint booth, then i'd suggest to look into this option.

[IDCHAPPY]

Excellent work SG, i love reading these threads