Tube and Chassis cleaning

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sergiopolog
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Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by sergiopolog » January 10th, 2019, 6:28 pm

Hi forum!

I have spares Toshiba Tube and Nanao MS9-29T for my Egret 2, and I'm willing to make a deep cleaning into them previously to do a recap, cause they have a thousand layer dust on them over the years.

I've clean a lot of game pcbs in the past with degreaser spray and then get them a shower. No problems at all, but I'm a little scare doing it to tube and chassis... Does anyone have experience with cleaning tubes and monitor chassis with a similar method? Are there some tips to take into account?


I saw this video from one fellow countryman using this method:



Thanks in advance!

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ChuChuFlamingo
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by ChuChuFlamingo » January 11th, 2019, 3:34 am

You really need to make sure all the water is dried. A lot of these IC's are not waterproof and can suffer from water ingress if not properly dried. You can set up potential failures down the road if the residues dry and react over the years on the ics (depends upon what contaminants are in your water). Not very many chips on a chassis though compared to a pcb.

Here is some insight on it

https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... #post61858

https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... /&pageNo=1

tl;dr if you do clean it you need to make sure you rinse it with rubbing alcohol/distilled water and put it in an oven to properly dry so it doesn't leave residues. Ymmv.

For cleaning tubes the front just clean with a soft microfiber cloth and some dish soap. Then wipe clean with distilled water/dry. Blowing out the dust that has accumulated on the yoke and neck of the tube would be a good idea. I would skip spraying any harsh chemicals on the back of the tube though. You might remove the aquadag coating on the back due to age if you do. Not a big a deal to fix if it happens but just thought I would warn you.

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grantspain
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by grantspain » January 11th, 2019, 6:19 am

water inside coils and caps is a serious concern, when i wash chassis i do it before i put new caps in and i remove and open coil/ transformer and then make sure the chassis is bone dry

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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by markedkiller78 » February 25th, 2019, 8:04 pm

Last time cools used a clean dry, brand new, paint brush to knock off the black ash / dirt.

Is that as much as I should do? My tube is filthy
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yosai
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by yosai » February 25th, 2019, 8:11 pm

Depends how much it bothers you.

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markedkiller78
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by markedkiller78 » February 25th, 2019, 8:28 pm

It bothers me
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cools
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by cools » February 25th, 2019, 9:16 pm

Compressed air/brush is as far as id bother with ever on a chassis.
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thegreathopper
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by thegreathopper » February 26th, 2019, 9:15 am

Well that’s spotless, is the picture better after the cleanup?

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nem
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by nem » February 26th, 2019, 10:18 am

A59 Tosh :awe:

Man, I need like ten of those. What brand of television?

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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by PrincessPrinPrin » February 26th, 2019, 12:47 pm

thegreathopper wrote:
February 26th, 2019, 9:15 am
Well that’s spotless, is the picture better after the cleanup?
Now it accepts 480p signals directly on the cathodes. Seriously, dust piles up under the yoke where the horizontal scan coils are and this can lead to overheating and burns. Blowing compressed air doesn't do much as heat melts the dust which becomes sticky and doesn't come off unless you use a degreaser and warm water. So I wash my tubes but it's a long and complicated process, especially the drying. I would never hose whole monitors as you see Americans do on youtube. I washa chassis when I rebuild it, after removing electrolytics and components that are not sealed such as transformers, PTC, CRT socket, etc.
nem wrote:
February 26th, 2019, 10:18 am
A59 Tosh :awe:

Man, I need like ten of those. What brand of television?
They were used on some Seleco models of the early 1990s as an alternative to Videocolor tubes but I really don't think these TVs were exported outside of Italy. Some Pioneer models of the late 1980s like SD-25AV1 always had them. The yokes work with European arcade monitors (Hantarex Polo etc.) but not with Japanese monitors. Later on the JMZ family was replaced by the LCG (e.g. A59LCG696X99) that can be found on some Grundig models (M63-105IDTV, E63-911IDTV). From the second half of the 1990s Toshiba tubes which were once very common all but disappeared from European TVs, especially those smaller than 29".
Im running games with a vga to tv converter on my Shangai Novel, with composite and it looks amazing, Im not interested in RGB or Scart.

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nem
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning

Post by nem » February 26th, 2019, 3:44 pm

PrincessPrinPrin wrote:
February 26th, 2019, 12:47 MP
Now it accepts 480p signals directly on the cathodes.
:lol:

I've fixed minor convergence issues by cleaning the tube from under the yoke.
They were used on some Seleco models of the early 1990s as an alternative to Videocolor tubes but I really don't think these TVs were exported outside of Italy. Some Pioneer models of the late 1980s like SD-25AV1 always had them. The yokes work with European arcade monitors (Hantarex Polo etc.) but not with Japanese monitors. Later on the JMZ family was replaced by the LCG (e.g. A59LCG696X99) that can be found on some Grundig models (M63-105IDTV, E63-911IDTV). From the second half of the 1990s Toshiba tubes which were once very common all but disappeared from European TVs, especially those smaller than 29".
I guess I'll settle for Videocolor tubes. At least those are easily found.

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