Tube and Chassis cleaning
- Nebula
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Tube and Chassis cleaning
Hi forum!
I have spares Toshiba Tube and Nanao MS9-29T for my Egret 2, and I'm willing to make a deep cleaning into them previously to do a recap, cause they have a thousand layer dust on them over the years.
I've clean a lot of game pcbs in the past with degreaser spray and then get them a shower. No problems at all, but I'm a little scare doing it to tube and chassis... Does anyone have experience with cleaning tubes and monitor chassis with a similar method? Are there some tips to take into account?
I saw this video from one fellow countryman using this method:
Thanks in advance!
I have spares Toshiba Tube and Nanao MS9-29T for my Egret 2, and I'm willing to make a deep cleaning into them previously to do a recap, cause they have a thousand layer dust on them over the years.
I've clean a lot of game pcbs in the past with degreaser spray and then get them a shower. No problems at all, but I'm a little scare doing it to tube and chassis... Does anyone have experience with cleaning tubes and monitor chassis with a similar method? Are there some tips to take into account?
I saw this video from one fellow countryman using this method:
Thanks in advance!
My: VAPS Collection .
- ChuChuFlamingo
- Posts: 54
- Joined: March 27th, 2012, 6:14 am
- Location: Michigan
Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
You really need to make sure all the water is dried. A lot of these IC's are not waterproof and can suffer from water ingress if not properly dried. You can set up potential failures down the road if the residues dry and react over the years on the ics (depends upon what contaminants are in your water). Not very many chips on a chassis though compared to a pcb.
Here is some insight on it
https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... #post61858
https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... /&pageNo=1
tl;dr if you do clean it you need to make sure you rinse it with rubbing alcohol/distilled water and put it in an oven to properly dry so it doesn't leave residues. Ymmv.
For cleaning tubes the front just clean with a soft microfiber cloth and some dish soap. Then wipe clean with distilled water/dry. Blowing out the dust that has accumulated on the yoke and neck of the tube would be a good idea. I would skip spraying any harsh chemicals on the back of the tube though. You might remove the aquadag coating on the back due to age if you do. Not a big a deal to fix if it happens but just thought I would warn you.
Here is some insight on it
https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... #post61858
https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... /&pageNo=1
tl;dr if you do clean it you need to make sure you rinse it with rubbing alcohol/distilled water and put it in an oven to properly dry so it doesn't leave residues. Ymmv.
For cleaning tubes the front just clean with a soft microfiber cloth and some dish soap. Then wipe clean with distilled water/dry. Blowing out the dust that has accumulated on the yoke and neck of the tube would be a good idea. I would skip spraying any harsh chemicals on the back of the tube though. You might remove the aquadag coating on the back due to age if you do. Not a big a deal to fix if it happens but just thought I would warn you.
- grantspain
- Tech Head
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
water inside coils and caps is a serious concern, when i wash chassis i do it before i put new caps in and i remove and open coil/ transformer and then make sure the chassis is bone dry
- markedkiller78
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
Last time cools used a clean dry, brand new, paint brush to knock off the black ash / dirt.
Is that as much as I should do? My tube is filthy
Is that as much as I should do? My tube is filthy
- yosai
- Windy City
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
Depends how much it bothers you.
- markedkiller78
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
It bothers me
- cools
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
Compressed air/brush is as far as id bother with ever on a chassis.
- PrincessPrinPrin
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
https://i.imgur.com/rrbByCl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HaDss7K.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/y1o79Tl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FAJ7eBg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TkkrJ2d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MhC6Vsw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dnEWBTS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nEMvcJR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dx5RPga.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5fphqEL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G3xyshk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LkQrq8s.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HaDss7K.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/y1o79Tl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FAJ7eBg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TkkrJ2d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MhC6Vsw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dnEWBTS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nEMvcJR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dx5RPga.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5fphqEL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G3xyshk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LkQrq8s.jpg
- thegreathopper
- Geese's Bodyguard
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
Well that’s spotless, is the picture better after the cleanup?
- nem
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
A59 Tosh
Man, I need like ten of those. What brand of television?
Man, I need like ten of those. What brand of television?
- PrincessPrinPrin
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
Now it accepts 480p signals directly on the cathodes. Seriously, dust piles up under the yoke where the horizontal scan coils are and this can lead to overheating and burns. Blowing compressed air doesn't do much as heat melts the dust which becomes sticky and doesn't come off unless you use a degreaser and warm water. So I wash my tubes but it's a long and complicated process, especially the drying. I would never hose whole monitors as you see Americans do on youtube. I washa chassis when I rebuild it, after removing electrolytics and components that are not sealed such as transformers, PTC, CRT socket, etc.thegreathopper wrote: ↑February 26th, 2019, 9:15 am Well that’s spotless, is the picture better after the cleanup?
They were used on some Seleco models of the early 1990s as an alternative to Videocolor tubes but I really don't think these TVs were exported outside of Italy. Some Pioneer models of the late 1980s like SD-25AV1 always had them. The yokes work with European arcade monitors (Hantarex Polo etc.) but not with Japanese monitors. Later on the JMZ family was replaced by the LCG (e.g. A59LCG696X99) that can be found on some Grundig models (M63-105IDTV, E63-911IDTV). From the second half of the 1990s Toshiba tubes which were once very common all but disappeared from European TVs, especially those smaller than 29".
- nem
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Re: Tube and Chassis cleaning
PrincessPrinPrin wrote: ↑February 26th, 2019, 12:47 pmNow it accepts 480p signals directly on the cathodes.
I've fixed minor convergence issues by cleaning the tube from under the yoke.
I guess I'll settle for Videocolor tubes. At least those are easily found.They were used on some Seleco models of the early 1990s as an alternative to Videocolor tubes but I really don't think these TVs were exported outside of Italy. Some Pioneer models of the late 1980s like SD-25AV1 always had them. The yokes work with European arcade monitors (Hantarex Polo etc.) but not with Japanese monitors. Later on the JMZ family was replaced by the LCG (e.g. A59LCG696X99) that can be found on some Grundig models (M63-105IDTV, E63-911IDTV). From the second half of the 1990s Toshiba tubes which were once very common all but disappeared from European TVs, especially those smaller than 29".