Jaleco Pony Mark III 25

[battlesmurf]

Kind of a quick little mockup.

I need a scan of a real Mk3-25 and I might do some in glass. Turned out okay for what I used though.

[mikejmoffitt]

How did you clean up the ashtray holder?

Just some fairly normal detergent/soap (Simple Green). It was not in bad shape, and the original chrome wasn't decaying. If it was, then I'm sure it would have been more work.

Kind of a quick little mockup.

I need a scan of a real Mk3-25 and I might do some in glass. Turned out okay for what I used though.

These are looking pretty nice. When cleaning my marquee I noticed another design feature: The 3D look comes not only from the silver on front + color on back, but the backside also has a redundant opaque print in the same shape as the front. Its job is also just to block light; scratches on the front side don't produce unwanted light as a result.

If I can get my flatbed scanner set up and make sure it still works I can scan my marquee in two pieces.

[pubjoe]

When cleaning my marquee I noticed another design feature: The 3D look comes not only from the silver on front + color on back, but the backside also has a redundant opaque print in the same shape as the front. Its job is also just to block light; scratches on the front side don't produce unwanted light as a result.

If I can get my flatbed scanner set up and make sure it still works I can scan my marquee in two pieces.

Yes, on light boxes black or silver is used to block light, either as a lower print layer or on the reverse - such as on the Pony’s header. It’s the primary light block rather than just an addition to the front print which wouldn’t block much on its own - if that makes sense.

I just say this because I noticed that double print and early on in this thread I mentioned it gives a cool 3D effect. A sign-maker friend recently explained to me that it’s standard for light boxes.

Battlesmurf, I sent you a PM. The same friend will be able produce these perfectly. It will need some patience though. I was only planning on getting one for myself but maybe I should start an interest check thread?

[battlesmurf]

So dumb question on these. I have a couple that are missing the inner bezels. I reproduced the glass pieces perfectly- but the bezels are another beast. I want to do something in cardboard but realize that I suck in that.

Anybody have any pointers/links/products/etc?


Also- looking at putting *some kind of light* in the top boxes- as they're empty. Do we know what type of connector usually plugs into the factory harness for the lights?


Thanks!

[pubjoe]

God knows how you would reproduce the bezels. I have no advice but I’m happy to help with measurements and photos.

I’m also missing the fluorescent bulb fitting. I love the retro flicker at power on but all sane advice is to just get an LED strip light, which would be cheap, easy and less damaging to the paint work.

[RAPHMACFLY]

Kind of a quick little mockup.

I need a scan of a real Mk3-25 and I might do some in glass. Turned out okay for what I used though.

Hello,

I'm very interested because my topper is empty. I'll get you one if you sell one. Thank you!

[poodude]

So dumb question on these. I have a couple that are missing the inner bezels. I reproduced the glass pieces perfectly- but the bezels are another beast. I want to do something in cardboard but realize that I suck in that.

Anybody have any pointers/links/products/etc?


Also- looking at putting *some kind of light* in the top boxes- as they're empty. Do we know what type of connector usually plugs into the factory harness for the lights?


Thanks!

If you wanted to put in the work, you could make a reverse casting of an original one, and then get some casting resin to pour into the mold. I doubt there is a pressure pot large enough to get out all the bubbles so you may need to touch it up. The other option is to take measurements and design it in something like Fusion 360(free), and then 3d print it in sections, join them with epoxy, sand, primer, and paint.

[battlesmurf]

That seems a smidge outside of my wheelhouse,

That being said- I'd pay for a couple no problem! I'm doing the cardboard thing at the moment- trying to rather- and it's a little bit more obnoxious than I'd like lol.

[Demitri1983]

Good afternoon! I have a Pony 3 that has an LCD in it at the moment. Just read through all 37 pages on this thread to see what the good word is on getting it back to a CRT. There are a lot of broken images so I may be missing some crucial bits of reference information. Primarily how the main 25" monitor is mounted, how the brackets look, ect..

From what I gather this may be more of a chore than originally thought but I like creative problem solving.

Important things to consider:

You will need a tube that is 59cm corner to corner (tube ref A59xxxxx) for the pony-III. (From the Wiki, be on the look out for Orion or Toshiba)

American 25" monitor is measured inside the shadow mask (diagonal picture size), japan was the face of the tube. ( So an odd 24" ???)


My question is has anyone tried to just fit a 19-20"? I know its not original but wouldn't that just open up the options?

Thanks for your time guys.

[pubjoe]

If you fail to source a CRT, a nice 1:1 LCD (LG panel, the same that’s in the Eizo’s I believe) can be had for around £300 from AliExpress.

Gargoyle67 did just that. He’s given me permission to post these. With it’s square glass the Pony is a very good candidate for it imo. No rotating. I’d have gone down this route if I couldn’t find a CRT...

F5DC49DA-FB65-4CB6-9C98-E04312363EBE.jpeg

8753C45F-9F00-43FD-9C5B-9C8CDD21C266.jpeg

63873E8A-6F93-48BF-B3FB-D852630DC7D1.jpeg

[Demitri1983]

Thanks, LCD in mine is fine for now. So were you lookin for a 25" or anything that would fit? I feel like you can always go smaller if the stock size does not fit. Not to mention there are Mk2 19", so putting a 19 in Mk3 doesn't seem like a far stretch. Unless I just don't know what I'm talking about LOL!

[pubjoe]

I was and was lucky enough to find one (here in the U.K.)

Battlesmurf has hunted the US for some. Certain US cabs contain the correct MS8-25 but I don’t know enough about that to advise.

I think he also said he had a mounting frame made up.

Otherwise try to find a Hantarex Polo Star 25.

[Demitri1983]

Thank you. I may have a line on some hantarex 25 tubes. Checking if any may read A59.

[nem]

Hantarex 25s will have the correct size 59cm tubes in them. I would just put one of those in the cab. Polo's have a nice picture too.

[SuperPang]

Gargoyle67 did just that. He’s given me permission to post these.

Tell your secret boyfriend we miss him. x

[geotrig]

[Demitri1983]

Hantarex 25s will have the correct size 59cm tubes in them. I would just put one of those in the cab. Polo's have a nice picture too.

Thanks, waiting on a response back from vendor. I also found a picture of the mounting frame off what looks to be a Jaleco sales flyer. Would anyone happen to have a live picture of theirs? Or even a set of measurements/plans? I assume I will have to make my own.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

[PrincessPrinPrin]

Thank you. I may have a line on some hantarex 25 tubes. Checking if any may read A59.

American 25" monitors will be too big (A63) no matter if they're Hantarex, Wells Gardner etc. Monitors with A59 tubes are very rare in the US as they're only found in Japanese cabs. You can find A60 tubes in 24" TVs (e.g. Toshiba 24AF45) but they're flat and mating them with an arcade chassis requires some knowledge.

[nem]

American 25" monitors will be too big (A63) no matter if they're Hantarex, Wells Gardner etc.

Ahh, good catch. I completely skipped the bit that the guy is in the US. I always think everyone on here is from Europe

Soz.

[Demitri1983]

Thanks again guys for the update. I never herd back from the vendor anyway. So I'm back to my original thought of 19-20". Looking for references from the mark 2 thread but most of the pictures are broken.

Also the thought if using a consumer TV did cross my mind as well. Especially the AF series.