Remote for 15/24kHz switching on Nanao MS9

[emphatic]

Instead of creating a new thread for this, continue reading from page 2, please.



I just bought myself a UVC unit that converts VGA to 15kHz/24kHz and thought I wanna run my XBox 360 in 24kHz on my Nanao MS8. The 15kHz signal is superb, but the 24kHz does not sync. Is there a setting somewhere on the chassis that "enables" 24kHz, or should it sync automatically? Does it need any special signal treatment? The settings I can change on the UVC unit is:

Sync: Composite/Separate (I've only hooked up H-sync to the JAMMA connector)
V-Sync polarity: Positive, Negative, Always High, Always Low
H-Sync polarity: Positive, Negative, Always High, Always Low

[CPS2]

Theres a jumper on the chassis isn't there? its not auto sync.

Wasn't the MS8 15khz only??

[Chi]

Egret II's usually have an MS9, and yes the jumper is on the chassis.

[emphatic]

Thank you guys, and sorry for causing a commotion, of course it's an MS9. Do I need to access this jumper from the rear? If not, is there any "remote" hack for this known to exist, as I plan to run my 360 in 24kHz, but do want to switch to PCB's from time to time?

It does look awesome in 15kHz btw:

[yosai]

To swap between 15k and 24k you move the lead with the brown, red, orange and yellow wires to the next connector.

[emphatic]

Thanks for the image. I don't have to wear safety gloves or anything to do this, right? I did a yoke swap once on a buddies MS9, and I'm still here.

[grantspain]

Thanks for the image. I don't have to wear safety gloves or anything to do this, right? I did a yoke swap once on a buddies MS9, and I'm still here.

just make sure the cab is switched off when you do it

[emphatic]

Wow, that place is really hard to get to. I had to use a mirror for "navigation". As I'm done fiddling with the knobs on my chassis (I only use the remote ones now) would rotating the chassis to have easier access to this function be okay? Or would that be a bad thing (for example would the cords be too short if I should want to rotate the monitor)? I think I won't be rotating my EGRET II screen anytime soon, as I have a horizontal hi-res right next to it.

[yosai]

The chassis is fixed in place and doesn't rotate with the monitor.

Unless they've been modified or cable tied the leads should be long enough.

[emphatic]

I'm worried now, since after my jumpering business, my Nanao does not want to sync to the UVC anymore (it didn't work in 24Khz and now not in 15khz either). PCB's (ESPGALUDA) run fine though, so I must have put the jumper back in place correctly. That yellow cable, is that composite sync, or what does the MS9 prefer?

The UVC synced without any problems with my Wei-Ya tri-sync on both 24 and 15khz.

Thoughts?

[yosai]

Thoughts? You want to sell me your EspGaluda PCB?

Have any of the dips switches changed? Have you used both the H & V syncs?

[emphatic]

Thoughts? You want to sell me your EspGaluda PCB?

Have any of the dips switches changed? Have you used both the H & V syncs?

Sorry, I'll never sell my dear ESPGALUDA PCB.

I guess I'll have to check my soldering for the UVC's JAMMA adapter again. Could it be a general 5-volt issue with the cabinet? Some ground wiring that interferes with sync? I've heard about certain PCB's that won't sync when the +5V is set to 5.0V but needs a boost initially.

[emphatic]

Edit: EVERYTHING IS WORKING. My trapezoid setting was incorrect.


Okay, so I've redone all the soldering and checked it with my Tri-Sync, and everything should be fine with the UVC. So, I get this picture on my Nanao:



It's solid, but it's like it's just out of sync, so what pot do I need to adjust? The V.Lin, or the H.S. Lim perhaps?

[emphatic]

I have another totally different question related to this monitor. As the 15/24kHz jumper is so hard to reach, are there "extension" wires in existence for this or other monitors? I imagine most operators just run 1 type of game in a cab and never move this jumper very often, but for us consumers with cabs, wouldn't this be a very neat solution?

My suggestion would be that you would have a wire harness fitted into each of these contacts on the chassis, and another that extends the chassis cables. These would hang down into the service door area in the front of the cabinet for easy access. Then the harnesses would be labeled 15kHz and 24kHz, and you could just unplug 15kHz, and plug the extension cables into the 24kHz harness to switch resolution (of course with the cab turned off).

a) Would this be at all possible?
b) Would it degrade the picture quality due to the extension part of the "equation"?
c) Where would I find the fitting type of cabling for this kind of stunt?

Edit: Did a little sketch:

[ckong]

[quote="emphatic"]... My suggestion would be that you would have a wire harness fitted into each of these contacts on the chassis, and another that extends the chassis cables. These would hang down into the service door area in the front of the cabinet for easy access. Then the harnesses would be labeled 15kHz and 24kHz, and you could just unplug 15kHz, and plug the extension cables into the 24kHz harness to switch resolution (of course with the cab turned off).
....[quote]

I had exact the same idea, and cables can easily be made, getting the right connectors (male/female) is a problem though. Perhaps Grantspain knows where to get them. I'll PM him.

[emphatic]

... My suggestion would be that you would have a wire harness fitted into each of these contacts on the chassis, and another that extends the chassis cables. These would hang down into the service door area in the front of the cabinet for easy access. Then the harnesses would be labeled 15kHz and 24kHz, and you could just unplug 15kHz, and plug the extension cables into the 24kHz harness to switch resolution (of course with the cab turned off).
....

I had exact the same idea, and cables can easily be made, getting the right connectors (male/female) is a problem though. Perhaps Grantspain knows where to get them. I'll PM him.

Thanks for your support of this idea. I think there must surely be more folks in need of a better Jumper solution for MS9 and what other type of Dual-sync with this contraption. The ultimate fix would of course be a 15/24 dip switch that could be mounted handily near the TEST/SERVICE switch.

So what we need (hardware wise) for each "kit" is:
2 x connector that fit into the sockets on the chassis (female) - same as chassis
1 x connector that fit into the cable connector on the chassis (male) - same as chassis
Necessary to fit the chassis, we must source the above.

2 x of any type 4 pin connector (ATX?) (same gender)
1 x of any type 4 pin connector compatible, but different gender from the two above

or if we could get a switch between 15/24 -> chassis cable connector (prefferably).

What I wonder is, are those Jumpers for RGB+Sync? If so could throwing the switch with the monitor on possibly harm the chassis?

[emphatic]

Well, don't do it while its on. A friend recently extended his yoke cables so he could switch them easily for an older game which displays the wrong way vertically, it made no difference to the signal quality. As this is a jumper as such I don't think it'd affect it either as long as you used the same gauge wire. He gutted an old monitor for more yoke connectors .. one of mine actually

Yeah, I'm all up for turning the monitor off, I was just curious of any dangers arising from switching jumpers with it on. I have an unused chassis board (not working) with some extra cables (the classic gray yoke ones) laying around, I'm gonna see if it has any cables that'll work for this project.

[Shady994]

Throw in a 4PDT toggle switch and it would be super convenient to switch modes.

[emphatic]

Throw in a 4PDT toggle switch and it would be super convenient to switch modes.

Yes, that seems like a near-perfect solution:

[pubjoe]

Did this switch idea ever go anywhere? I'm pretty interested in it. I've never seen my e2 in 24k mode, but if it wasn't such a pain to switch, I might consider using it.

...I think I might have a go at your switch idea, but I'd rather not be the first to do it.