Remote for 15/24kHz switching on Nanao MS9

[monouchi]

Edit: Just ordered more pins. What do you say, fellas, should we keep cool until those land here and I'll supply Franco so he can finish them up 100%?

I vote for that!

[emphatic]

+1. I hate it when people have to part with their EGRET IIs. Unless they land in my place, that is.

Edit: Just ordered more pins. What do you say, fellas, should we keep cool until those land here and I'll supply Franco so he can finish them up 100%?

I vote for that!

[mastercello]

Bump of an very old thread - i know.

But did it work at the end?
Can somebody enlighten me what is needed or does anybody have a kit (even DIY) available?

Or can our master of cable FrancoB make such switching kits?

[FrancoB]

Has it really been ~9 years Saying that, the 'quality' of the wiring in those photos certainly looks old enough

I've just re-hosted the photos so they're no longer on **** and shouldn't disappear in the future.

I can't really make anything for the forseable as I'm currently in house limbo at the moment and our good friend covid isn't exactly helping

I can stick together a parts last for you though.

You'll want:

1x [B4P-VH(LF)(SN) PCB Header]
2x [VHR-4N housings]
8x [BVH-41T-P1.1 contacts]
2x [Non-Latching Relay - DPDT, 12V dc Coil, 10A Switching Current, 2 Pole]

The relays I used from Maplins are NLA from them as they've closed down so I found an alternative from RS components

You'll also need a 12v power source, I tapped 12v from a JAMMA passthrough. To make that you would just need a fingerboard and edge connector.

You may want a way to switch it on/off too, any kind of latching switch should do for that, something like a SPST.

I used some crappy push fit terminals for the proto version, you're much better off soldering them and using heat shrink to insulate.

I'll copy the wiring diagram here for reference:



Hopefully they should look something a bit more like this:





LMK if you need any more help.

[mastercello]

Excellent Franco, appreciate it!

But with this it is 100% fine, right?
No risk to damage something at the chassis? (as empathic/pubjoe had problems with their setup back then)

Would it be possible also to take the 12V directly from the E2 PSU?
AWG of the wire - AWG18?

Many thanks!

[FrancoB]

We don't know for sure but from the testing that emphatic and ckong did it looked like wire length may have been causing issues on their original version. It's hard to tell for sure.

dieKatze88 came up with the idea of using relays to keep the yoke wiring at a minimum length. I tried it and it worked for me. The only issue I had was with the proto kit. It was installed on one of my cabs that went to replay and some of the wiring must have come loose (due to the **** push on crimp connectors on the relays) and so the monitor didn't work and cools removed the kit and just plugged the standard connector back in.

After that I soldered the wires onto the relays on my kit and had 0 issues with it. All the ones I made after that were soldered and I've not had anything my positive reports back.

YMMV though.

You could take 12v directly from the E2 PSU, you just need some way of making/breaking the circuit to switch between resolutions.

I used 24/0.2 wire which is ~18AWG.

[emphatic]

Pretty sure the cable length solved the issues I had. I still haven't gotten around to install my Franco switcher. One of my cabs is in 24kHz all the time.

[mastercello]

Many thanks chaps!

RS is not my favorite source - prefer digikey or mouser.

Are these parts correct:
Relay - https://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/d ... =324662015
Housing - https://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/d ... =324662660
Header - https://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/d ... =324663066
Contacts - https://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/d ... =324663780

Also would it be possible to do it on the MS8-26 Chassis?
This is the part of the different headers for the cable (8 pin):

Only difference is to use a 8 pin JST VH housing and Header instead of the 4 pin - right?

[FrancoB]

Many thanks chaps!

RS is not my favorite source - prefer digikey or mouser.

Are these parts correct:
Relay - https://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/d ... =324662015
Housing - https://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/d ... =324662660
Header - https://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/d ... =324663066
Contacts - https://www.digikey.ch/product-detail/d ... =324663780

Looks good to me.

Also would it be possible to do it on the MS8-26 Chassis?
This is the part of the different headers for the cable (8 pin):

MS8-26.jpg.png

Only difference is to use a 8 pin JST VH housing and Header instead of the 4 pin - right?

Yep, in theory it should work. You would have to suck it and see

[mastercello]

Received already the connectors, relais and contacts - still missing AWG18 wire - do you think AWG20 is fine too?

Did you mount or attach the relais somehow on the chassis?

[FrancoB]

Received already the connectors, relais and contacts

still missing AWG18 wire - do you think AWG20 is fine too?

No idea It's a very short cable length so I can't imagine the difference in cross section making that much difference but I'm not an electrical engineer. I know 24/0.2 (18awg) worked for me. Might be worth getting some if you can, it would save adding another variable into the mix.

Did you mount or attach the relais somehow on the chassis?

IIRC, on the MS9 I used double sided tape to mount them to the shield.

[Endprodukt]

Did anyone try switching when the monitor is on? Probably not recommended?

[nem]

Considering it works with relays, the cab, and therefore monitor, has to be on.

[Endprodukt]

Considering it works with relays, the cab, and therefore monitor, has to be on.

The switching has been done with the cabinet off. When it turns on and the relay gets 12v it immediately switches to 24khz.

I haven't found a comment if it is safe to switch between the modes when the monitor is already up and running.

I'm using a emulator setup and therefore would switch between the resolutions.

[FrancoB]

I wouldn't want to try switching resolutions with the monitor turned on. I always turned the cab off before flipping the 12v switch.

If it's set to off then the relay will be in it's '15kHz output' position and the monitor will run at 15kHz.

If it's set to on then the relay will be in it's '15kHz output' position until the cab is turned on. When the cab is turned on the relay will get 12v and will flip to the '24kHz output'. This will happen at the exact time that the monitor is turned on too. In an ideal world, you would want to change the output resolution prior to firing the monitor rather than doing it simultaneously but I've not had any issues doing it this way.

But yeah, I wouldn't want to try 'hot swapping' the resolutions.

[nem]

Ahh, I see. My mistake. I guess the monitor takes a while to power up, so I can see there being a difference.

[Endprodukt]

I was thinking if it could actually be done with an Arduino setup that controls what's going on and an additional relay for the power line of the monitor.

[Endprodukt]

So if someone cares we are gonna make an automated switcher. It will be very practical for emulated systems, don't see much of a reason if you use the real hardware.

It will be arduino controlled. Plan is to make it so that we will have a batch file that reads the command from a frontend, checks if the game launched is 25k, if so will then shut-off the screen, change to 25 and switch it back on. Also will switch back to 15khz ones you leave the game of course.

Once I confirm all of this working I'll hook you up with the files and schematics.

Open to any ideas.