Trying to figure out proper isolation transformer setup (Monitor and house voltage different from cabinet)

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Darklightjg1
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Trying to figure out proper isolation transformer setup (Monitor and house voltage different from cabinet)

Post by Darklightjg1 » July 16th, 2019, 3:28 am

I've been asking another user monitor related questions in PMs and figured to make a thread just in case anyone had any additional details on this particular subject. I have a Blast City Cabinet and am attempting to use a Sanwa PM1745 monitor inside of it (with an adapter made to connect the cabinet harness to the monitor chassis). That chassis is currently sent in for repair as something shorted out/blew up on it very soon after I powered it on.

I just checked for voltages and there are three different voltages I'm dealing with (and maybe the differences are part of the problems I've been having with all the monitor chassis' constantly shorting/breaking)?

-The mains/outlets from my house are 122v
-The Blast City arcade cabinet itself has a sticker that says it's 100v and 50/60hz (this is the AC plug that would plug into the outlet of my house or transformer)
-The Sanwa PM1745 monitor has a sticker that says AC 120v (is that a problem since the adapter made for me is being connected from the arcade cabinet to it)?


With that information, does that mean an isolation transformer in tandem a step down transformer (something like 120v to 100v if I can find one) would be ideal? Like so:

Wall/surge protector -> Isolation transformer -> Step down transformer -> Arcade cabinet AC plug -> adapter -> monitor chassis (not sure if 100v from the cabinet being lower than the monitor would be an issue... maybe not as bright of a screen? IDK. I'm no expert on any of this, which is why I'm asking).

I just want to rule out what I haven't been trying/doing before, because I really don't want to keep sending these monitor chassis' across the country for repair. Any details on what I need to buy/do to get this properly set up would be appreciated.

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mufunyo
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Re: Trying to figure out proper isolation transformer setup (Monitor and house voltage different from cabinet)

Post by mufunyo » July 16th, 2019, 1:00 pm

Darklightjg1 wrote:
July 16th, 2019, 3:28 am
Wall/surge protector -> Isolation transformer -> Step down transformer -> Arcade cabinet AC plug -> adapter -> monitor chassis
A step down transformer acts as an isolation transformer. An isolation transformer is just a 1:1 winding transformer, meaning the input and output voltages are the same. The only difference between an isolation transformer and a step down transformer is the latter has a lower output voltage.
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Darklightjg1
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Re: Trying to figure out proper isolation transformer setup (Monitor and house voltage different from cabinet)

Post by Darklightjg1 » July 22nd, 2019, 4:40 pm

mufunyo wrote:
July 16th, 2019, 1:00 MP
Darklightjg1 wrote:
July 16th, 2019, 3:28 am
Wall/surge protector -> Isolation transformer -> Step down transformer -> Arcade cabinet AC plug -> adapter -> monitor chassis
A step down transformer acts as an isolation transformer. An isolation transformer is just a 1:1 winding transformer, meaning the input and output voltages are the same. The only difference between an isolation transformer and a step down transformer is the latter has a lower output voltage.
I'm going to get a step down transformer (120v -> 100v) to use from the mains to the arcade's power supply. Will it matter that the monitor is going to be 120v still (it might also say 100v on the sticker as well right above the 120v, but the label is very faded and I can't make out if that's part of a voltage range or not)?

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Re: Trying to figure out proper isolation transformer setup (Monitor and house voltage different from cabinet)

Post by mufunyo » July 23rd, 2019, 11:50 am

I would say the monitor is the only part of an arcade cabinet that is possibly in danger if fed too much AC voltage. The marquees and lights can basically run on any voltage (due to how a TL lamp with ballast works), and the JAMMA power supply has adjustable output voltage. So if your monitor is rated for 120v, I'd just run the whole cabinet on 120v.
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