Arcade Otaku - アーケード オタク

Hey everyone. So I recently got my first cab and I've been doing my research so I can discharge the monitor safely. I don't plan on recapping or doing any maintenance on it soon. That's all in the future when I have more knowledge. But for now I'm going through the cab with scrubbing bubbles and removing all the dirt and grime and I want to take the monitor out safely so I can clean the inside.

Is this the proper shopping list to create a monitor discharge tool?

https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2UV2R5H7C0MXP

Also, I've heard conflicting things about what to clip the opposite side of the cable to. Do I clip it to a metal frame around the crt? I've heard someone say they plug into the ground pin in a wall outlet.

Any advice is appreciated because of course, while I know this procedure is simple, it's a dangerous one without knowledge. Thank you.

Also for refference, the cab is a sega blast city and I believe the monitor is the stock NANAO MS2930.

good news is that most of these new monitors auto discharge but it's still advised to discharge just in case. Connecting to the monitor frame is OK and what I've always done.
There is a good guide in the wiki
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/How_to_d ... _a_monitor

You only need to discharge the monitor if you're disconnecting the chassis from the tube. You can simply take the whole thing out in its frame. Just avoid touching near the anode cap.

And please post again, so we know you're OK

It's a MS2930, it has a bleeder circuit. I would just leave it turned off for 10 minutes and then remove the anode cap.

However, like Pang said, if you're just removing the monitor from the cabinet, just pull the whole thing out. No need to do anything to it.

nem wrote: ↑April 28th, 2019, 1:42 pm if you're just removing the monitor from the cabinet, just pull the whole thing out. No need to do anything to it.

So I don't have to disconnect the chassis to get the monitor out of the cab?

From memory, there are tabs in the control panel that release the monitor bezel and then you can disconnect everything you need to from the front of the monitor, which is very cool design. There's a lack of elbow room to lift the monitor out though so if you're doing it on your own you might need to put the cab on its back.

nem will confirm. It's been a while since I looked inside a Blast.

Spot on. There's three connectors you unplug and four nuts at the corners to remove and then you can pull out the monitor. If the bolts are snagging on the frame the monitor can be a PITA to remove. Maybe ask a friend to help.

After you have the monitor out make sure the bolts are aligned correctly (45 degree angle IIRC).

nem wrote: ↑May 2nd, 2019, 2:41 pm Spot on. There's three connectors you unplug and four nuts at the corners to remove and then you can pull out the monitor. If the bolts are snagging on the frame the monitor can be a PITA to remove. Maybe ask a friend to help.

After you have the monitor out make sure the bolts are aligned correctly (45 degree angle IIRC).

Oh man, been there when the bolts snag on the frame - definitely no fun especially if you don't have a buddy to help.

For a first timer I'd definitely recommend putting the Blast City on it's back to remove the monitor. Optionally you can remove the control panel too, it's just six bolts that can be removed with a socket wrench and will give you more room to work with.

Hey nem, do you know if MS9 chassis have the bleeder circuit for auto discharge too?

Yes, it has one.

As always, I suggest you manually discharge the first time. If you don't hear a pop, you're good to go.

nem wrote: ↑May 2nd, 2019, 4:58 pm Yes, it has one.

As always, I suggest you manually discharge the first time. If you don't hear a pop, you're good to go.

Nice, yeah I was pretty worried the first time I discharged a MS2930 because I didn't hear a pop and didn't know about the bleeder circuit.

Didn't get a pop when I discharged my PB7534 chassis recently either. On the other hand that one had a bad flyback so who knows if it even had a charge to begin with.

Oh hey to the OP, I just looked at your wish list on Amazon and I'm not so sure that screwdriver is going to work well for discharging.

I could be wrong, but the chrome plating on the shaft may prevent you from getting a good electrical connection through your alligator clips.

Whatever screw driver you use, I'd recommend using a multimeter to confirm continuity between the alligator clip you are attaching to the metal frame in the cabinet and the end of your screwdriver (once the other alligator clip is attached).

kuze wrote: ↑May 2nd, 2019, 6:37 pm Oh hey to the OP, I just looked at your wish list on Amazon and I'm not so sure that screwdriver is going to work well for discharging.

I could be wrong, but the chrome plating on the shaft may prevent you from getting a good electrical connection through your alligator clips.

Whatever screw driver you use, I'd recommend using a multimeter to confirm continuity between the alligator clip you are attaching to the metal frame in the cabinet and the end of your screwdriver (once the other alligator clip is attached).

Thanks.

Btw. I'm like 30 min into trying to remove the monitor AFTER having removed the bezel and the bolts. This ballancing act **** sucks.

Finally got it out. Had to call my wife over. She said, "it smells like basement". Which is exactly what I want to clean up.

Haha nice.

Glad to hear you got it out OK!