Arcade Otaku - アーケード オタク

The weiya 3129 just came in and I was wondering if there's a full installation guide or video for this one, so I don't miss any steps? It's been a couple of months since I even looked at a chassis, but this one looks very different from the nanao one. There are remote boards on it and some other cables I don't really recognize. I'm going to rest before I think about tackling this. I'm also not sure what the AC power cord on it is for or if I need to plug that in somewhere in particular since I plan on having it inside the cabinet (Nanao chassis didn't have an AC cord, so I don't know why this one does).

all the cables you need are on the old wiring of the chassis, the 2 pin ac power should be same unless you have a 3 pin weiya. the new chassis will have a vga cable with an adapter board- this adapter board has the same 6 pin connector as the ms2931 low res connector- in other words you can just remove the wiring and plug straight in
the only issue you will have is the deflection coil header, the new chassis will have a 4 pin and the old will have 2+2 pins- you need to get this right or you will have a firework display

I didn't try to mess with this for a couple of weeks. I was waiting to get back a part I sent to let me mount chassis within the machine and finally decided to try and hook it up today. I plugged the AC adapter for it into the wall after I didn't see anything else I could plug into the chassis from the monitor/cabinet itself (a lot of stuff was already wired to it). Anyway, it's just clicking on and off constantly and I don't know why. I turned on the cab to check the screen and I just see a small flicker of white that pops up every time it clicks. Otherwise it's a black screen.
Anyone know why it's doing this?

Edit: After fiddling with it some more and additionally letting it run for a while, it's still clicking, but I can see it's trying to project the game's image still. Short video of the problem:

if you disconnect video signal does it stay on

grantspain wrote: ↑February 12th, 2019, 7:45 am if you disconnect video signal does it stay on

It's doesn't. It continues to click on an off. Still see a white flash each time just no recognizable game image with it.

Also was wondering similar to this rodotron chassis, there are these small green cords on the chassis (see near bottom left of this image). What are they for? They're just hanging there on my chassis and I don't even know if they're necessary (a lot of of stuff just hanging and not plugged into anything tbh, but there's nowhere else to plug either).

the green wire with the ring terminal are earths, just screw to the frame
do you have photos of your chassis in situ?

I have a couple of photos of what is left unplugged (I just unplugged the video signal recently. I can recognize that the jamma video input came from the nanao chassis I sent as it looks exactly the same):







I sort of tried to get a video of that and the chassis board itself, but it's not that good as so much stuff is in the way and holding a phone and flashlight at the same time is hard, there is one spot on there with nothing plugged into it (from around 1:00-1:08 in the video). Everything else was already wired/plugged in before they sent it to me. The switch on the remote board was initially set to "75 ohm 1V" and I switched it to "1K ohm 3V" since I read that's what would be used for 15khz.



Here is the AC power cord I was talking about (that the nanao chassis didn't have). As soon as I plug it into the wall/power strip it automatically tries to turn on and the clicking on and off thing happens until I unplug it:



neckboard:



remote board:



Couple of attempts to get photo of chassis:

that chassis does not look to be new, i can see heat damage around the colour drive transistors- Although thats normal on a used chassis

Yeah I believe it's used.
Is there any suggestion to the issue/cause(s) for why it keeps clicking on and off like that? (I haven't screwed on the earth terminals yet btw in case that's a factor).

At the very least there is some activity that I can see/hear compared to the nanao chassis, but the main reason I got this one (while the nanao is still being repaired) is because I was under the impression that it would be more straightforward to diagnose or troubleshoot any problems with it. Not necessarily "easier", but not as cryptic as a nanao board that just shuts off for any reason.

the fact its trying to power on could be related to capacitors

I called the company that sent it to ask if it was tested etc.
They asked me to try a few things (maybe someone can give more advice with this info):

Asked me to get a reading on the horizontal yoke. It was fluctuating between 0.2~0.4 ohms. What should it be (he said it should be 0.5... he may have said 1.5 but it sounded like .5)?

They didn't ask but I also measured the vertical yoke and it was between 6~7 ohms.

They also asked me to briefly take the yoke cords out of the chassis and turn it on... I did this and there was no clicking on and off and I could see neck glow on the tube.

So maybe it's a problem with the yoke? Is there something I can do about this?

to read a yoke correctly you need an inductance meter
you just read the impedance and he is correct it should be about 0.5ohms horizontal and about 7 ohms vertical- you should read the yoke with it disconnected from the chassis. Also important to note the quality of your multimeter in reading the yoke

Once I get the inductance reading (still reading the horizontal and vertical connection, right?) then what should I do? The inductance meter is shipping in two days.

if the inductance readings are correct then look at the chassis caps, there a load 10uf 400v caps in centre area of the chassis that go bad
you are getting full deflection though which should rule out the yoke being the issue- possible it could have internal corrosion though

I got .2 on the horizontal and 16.4 on the vertical readings. I'm going by this post in another forum with the device set to 200 mH:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64179.0

Is that correct?

horizontal should around 0.200 so sounds correct

I'm confused because I'm getting two conflicting ideas. Last week, the PNL guy says the chassis is fine (they test for 24 hours before shipping their stuff out) and that the fact that it wasn't clicking on and off (and the neck was glowing) when the horizontal yoke cord was removed, should mean it's fine. He suggested there was probably something wrong with the yoke in that case and trying to offer a replacement tube (I told him I'd ask on here about replacement tubes before buying anything else, so if anyone knows if there are other tubes that are compatible besides a makvision tube please mention it to me).

But then the readings on the coils are correct too, so that would mean it's probably not the yoke or the tube (or is that not necessarily the case)? These 10uf 400v caps you mentioned, is there a way to check if they are fine or if something is wrong before fiddling with the board too much?

I also checked a board with VGA hooked up and got no difference to the clicking on and off problem. Just trying to rule out if a resolution change made any difference.

-After typing all that I took a look at the caps near the area and if I had to guess I'd say this is not good haha:

thats just glue they used, it looks worse than it is

maybe you tube has a problem, rare but possible

A 27" tube should fit inside/mount inside the cabinet, no? He offered to credit me back if I shipped back this chassis (since we're not really sure what else to do with it) and I'll trying getting a tube + chassis combo of the same brand (neotec in this case).

Darklightjg1 wrote: ↑February 27th, 2019, 12:01 pmA 27" tube should fit inside/mount inside the cabinet, no?

Yes, but depending on the curvature of the tube, the bezel might not sit flush (or at all).