Initial D Version 3 Question
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
A20 lifted, pos lead of lamp soldered to a19 pin of a19-a20 link: no glow
- grantspain
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
you put the mosfet back in?
- grantspain
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
check f805, i thinks its a 2a or 1a - fuse btw
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
Put mosfet back in: no glow
Checked f805 in circuit and got no tone. Pulled and confirmed fuse is shot.
Don’t happen to have any replacements handy so I further repairs will have to wait until Monday
Checked f805 in circuit and got no tone. Pulled and confirmed fuse is shot.
Don’t happen to have any replacements handy so I further repairs will have to wait until Monday
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
when you replace that fuse keep the lamp in its place and check the b+, if good then put the lamp to back to the transistor and check again
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
2a pico fuse replaced at f805: I should have worn sunglasses.
B+ measures in DC mode on the MM: negative lead on ground screw, pos lead on pos leg of c830: 184.6v
Will replace a20, pull q417, and solder bulb lead to middle trace for q417 and check b+ at c830 again later tonight
B+ measures in DC mode on the MM: negative lead on ground screw, pos lead on pos leg of c830: 184.6v
Will replace a20, pull q417, and solder bulb lead to middle trace for q417 and check b+ at c830 again later tonight
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
so thats good, it proves power supply section b+ is now good, next step will prove flyback is working to a degree
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
So I pulled the transistor at q417 and soldered the lead from the bulb into the middle socket. I also re-connected the jumpers a19 and a20.
I turned on the power and the bulb came on... but it was making a sizzling noise that sounded very much like a cap was about to burst so I shut it off quickly.
I turned on the power and the bulb came on... but it was making a sizzling noise that sounded very much like a cap was about to burst so I shut it off quickly.
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
its possible the flyback has an internal short, of course swapping the flyback will prove that- if you have another good working flyback then thats the way to go as just buying a new replacement will be expensive and if its not the issue then a waste of money
can you double check the neck card caps if you changed them, i can't remember if there is a 250v cap on that model neck card- check value and polarity
can you double check the neck card caps if you changed them, i can't remember if there is a 250v cap on that model neck card- check value and polarity
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
C902 on the neck board is 33uf/250v but the polarity is correct.
There are 3 non-polar caps on the neck and all the others are the correct orientation. Can send pics if needed.
Would it confirm anything to let the board run until a cap either blows or in able to grab the b+ voltage?
Would it help to turn the brightness all the way down on the flyback for testing purposes?
There are 3 non-polar caps on the neck and all the others are the correct orientation. Can send pics if needed.
Would it confirm anything to let the board run until a cap either blows or in able to grab the b+ voltage?
Would it help to turn the brightness all the way down on the flyback for testing purposes?
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
yes you can try all that although even full on screen volts should not cause a cap to blow
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
Guess it was just nerves after blowing up so much stuff. Turned on, no disaster, bulb flowed.
B+ @ c830: 184.7v
B+ @ c830: 184.7v
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
sounds all good, you could now test all the other voltages- there are voltage regs on the chassis for 12v, 5v and pretty sure 15v
or just reinstall the HOT if it meters fine and see what happens
or just reinstall the HOT if it meters fine and see what happens
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
HOT reads:
Pos on pin 1 (base)
Neg on pin 2 (collector) 4.93ohms
Neg on pin 3 (emitter) 5.23ohms
No other combinations give readings
Pos on pin 1 (base)
Neg on pin 2 (collector) 4.93ohms
Neg on pin 3 (emitter) 5.23ohms
No other combinations give readings
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
@grantspain: you sir, are
A scholar and a gentleman
A scholar and a gentleman
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
could do with some serious setup on the geometry, but good its working
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
Aaaaaand then it died.
So it was up, running, and beautiful and then it looked like a Horizontal collapse. Lots of clicking when I turn it on now and no image.
I think part of the problem may be c828. The replacement cap is way taller than the original and resting against the CRT glass when I secure everything.
The original cap @ c828 is 2200uf 10v?
I’ll try returning the original.
Damn. So close.
So it was up, running, and beautiful and then it looked like a Horizontal collapse. Lots of clicking when I turn it on now and no image.
I think part of the problem may be c828. The replacement cap is way taller than the original and resting against the CRT glass when I secure everything.
The original cap @ c828 is 2200uf 10v?
I’ll try returning the original.
Damn. So close.
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
2200uf 25v in my scrapper chassis although it may not be the orginal
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
Correction:
Returned old 2200uf 25v cap @ c828
Returned old 2200uf 10v cap @ c826
Returned old 2200uf 25v cap @ c828
Returned old 2200uf 10v cap @ c826
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Re: Initial D Version 3 Question
Neither cap replacement fixed the problem. Double-checked q407 again and it still seems fine (pos on pin 2 and neg on pin 3 gives .565 ohms)