Astro City Monitor turns black after power up

[@Alaska-]

Till today never got a issue like this,
and till yesterday the cab worked flawlessy.
Today i powered it up and i could see just for a couple of second the boot screen of the cps3 then the screen went black just like someone was handling the remote control pushing off button... zap

i still hear sound etc..

*_____* (me scared)


Edit:
(after a couple of try, screen doesn't power up at all anymore)

[@Alaska-]

Last night the monitor was working again O___O
i let it play for about 2 hours swapping pcbs without problems

what could it be?
this morning the problem was stil there, just 6-7 second of video then black screen again

honestly the only thing which come in mind is a different temperature of the game room,
last night was cool while this morning is **** hot. ç___ç

It makes me though like it goes on protection for any reasons, because when i have picture it is steady as rock. Fully playable/enjoyable.

[Wurstkopp]

Measured the +5V on your psu?

[Korszca]

/me whips out a SCART cable

[crunchywasp]

/me whips out a SCART cable

Just like a good hammer they'll likely solve most problems

[nerdygrrl]

Check and see if the monitor is still on even when the screen is black. Do you see neck glow? Can you hear the buzz? If yes, no idea. If no, it may be going into HV shut down. Leave it for an hour and see if it powers back on. If it does and then shuts down again check you hot (B+) on the monitor.

I have something similar going on with my cab and it is driving me crazy.

[@Alaska-]

No buzz here,
or better i hear a buzz sound but it's most likely the neon.

I left the cab rest already and it turned on just for a couple of hours the last time i did, then black again.

Another thing i noticed is a sort of whistle 30 second after i powered off the cab.

Anyway now when i turn the cab on it can't keep the monitor powered anymore so i always get black screen

What's the hot (b+) ?

EDIT:
you're talking about this stuff?:
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvhvsdtxrp.htm"

Nope is not a whistle but more like a clicking sound, something like old tube produced when you powered it off,
i remember my grand mother tv did that..
sort of

[nerdygrrl]

Yes, that link explains the HV shutdown. When the B+ is pushing out too much the monitor shuts itself off (HV shutdown) to prevent radiation. This can often be fixed by replacing the flybakc and the hot. It usually costs about $30. Sometimes you can just adjust the hot. I will try and find a link for you

The next time your monitor blacks out, pop open the back and look to see if the neck is still glowing. Sometimes you can feel static or hear the monitor. If this is happening it's not in shutdown. If all is dead then it probably shut itself down.

Do you know what chassis you are running in there?

I just bought a cab and it's doing the same exact thing. I thought it was HV, but my monitor is still on when black.

[@Alaska-]

it should be original, so Nanao electronic and Toshiba Monitor (?)

About black out there will not be a "next time" P___P
the monitor doesn't power up anymore
i can't get any picture now. é___é

I'm still wondering how it could have been able to work for hours without shutdown and then not working the next time i powered it on.

If it's something that goes defective how the cab got working all of sudden and then not working anymore...

So flawchart in this case is:

1) neckboard glowing, monitor is still ok, no HV shut down, problem is somewhere else
2) neckboard not glowing, monitor can't get powered on because it's in shutdown "protection mode" because some faulty component (flyback, hot), replacing them could solve the problem

[nerdygrrl]

Have you let it sit for a bit? Sometimes when the monitor shuts itself down it can take a bit (30 min-1 hour) to cool down.

This is my first time experiencing anything like this. The monitor in the cab I just bought started blacking out for no reason. The previous owner just gave me the, "sorry sounds like a new problem". I just picked the cab up on Tuesday and it has not been working right since I got it home. It will work, I can play for a while then black or I turn it on it last for a minute and then black.

[@Alaska-]

oh yeah i let it be sit for all day long, i'm having this problem since monday, and i usually try the cab the morning
tuesday night i tried to turn it on and it went all of trough the two hours without a single problem.
I shut'd down to change pcb and it went on again perfectly...

then , the day after it was all black from the beginning, and till now i can't get picture anymore,
it's most likely it shutdown at very power on, so probably i can't get picture because it's too fast in shutting down ,

while before i had 4-5 second to see something on screen before blank out.

Honestly your problem seem very similar, as i said i was able to play some more every time i turn on/off the cab
but now seems completely ruined and not able to bypass the problem anymore...
maybe keep trying to use it in this state could cause other problems/components blowing?

[nerdygrrl]

This is my first candy. I have owned over 30 other arcade games and have never seen anything like this. I am going to pull the chassis out on Sunday and look to see if I have any blown caps.

I may just install a new flyback and cap kit. I am so confused by all of this. Nothing in the cab is being moved, yet sometimes it will turn on and others it won't. I am hoping someone on here as seen this before.

[Hewitson]

Replacing flyback and HOT is not going to affect B+ voltage. To put it simply, the B+ powers the HOT, which in turn powers the flyback. A HOT cannot be adjusted, but in some cases the B+ going to it can be.

Looking for blown caps is an absolute waste of time. Either get an ESR meter and test for bad caps, or shotgun the lot.

[nerdygrrl]

Replacing flyback and HOT is not going to affect B+ voltage. To put it simply, the B+ powers the HOT, which in turn powers the flyback. A HOT cannot be adjusted, but in some cases the B+ going to it can be.

Looking for blown caps is an absolute waste of time. Either get an ESR meter and test for bad caps, or shotgun the lot.

Thanks, I was just going by what I was told by the monitor tech out here.

[@Alaska-]

there's something i can do by myself, or do i need to let the cab inspected by a technician?

[Wurstkopp]

Why not just try to measure the +5V? Without them - no picture.

Btw: There are no flybacks for Nanao chassis available. According to Grantspain they were never available to the public. Also they never get faulty.

[grantspain]

never seen a flyback fail on these
most common problems are caps,HOT,power regulator on ms8,vertical frame ic,sync and colour modules on ms8,dry solder joints,vertical deflection transistor and feed circuit on ms8

dry solder joints on crt socket is very common

[nerdygrrl]

I have narrowed down my problem to a short of cold/broken solder joint somewhere on the chassis.

You may want to try reseating some of the harnesses or if you have the knowhow remove the chassis and looked for cold or cracked solder joints.

[@Alaska-]

The next time your monitor blacks out, pop open the back and look to see if the neck is still glowing. Sometimes you can feel static or hear the monitor. If this is happening it's not in shutdown.

Ok i've properly opened up the back and i can clerly hear buzz coming from the neck board/tube area
it was not from the neon. P___P
to be double sure i disconnected the neon and the buzz is still there, so it's coming 100% from the back of the monitor.
If this is the green for a no shutdown issue what can i do as next move to adress the problem?

doing a little bit of home works:


this should be my setup

where are these components exactly ?

caps,HOT,power regulator on ms8,vertical frame ic,sync and colour modules on ms8,dry solder joints,vertical deflection transistor and feed circuit on ms8

dry solder joints on crt socket is very common

(ok caps are pretty much everywhere, and the fly back should be that giant black thing which has a red cable going to the monitor if i get it right)

[nerdygrrl]

The first thing you should try and do is locate the flowchart/schematic for the chassis. This will have the various components labeled on it.

You are correct, the flyback is that giant black thing with the red lead and suction cup (anode) on it. This is what holds most of the juice and is the most dangerous part of the monitor. ALWAYS make sure it is discharged before touching it.

EDITED