[Guide] MS9 - flipping the yoke with switches

[FrancoB]

Original post:

I have a NAC with a MS9 in it. I wired up a Bomb Jack board last night and the screen was inverted. It doesn't have a invert screen hard or soft dip so I flipped the yoke which isn't something I want to do on a regular basis.

I want to use this as a vert cab and so I don't want to have to remove the monitor at all if I can help it.

Cools suggested I could keep the screen flipped and then use the hard/soft dips in other games to flip the image as required. This worked great for various games until I got to DOJ which does not seem to have a invert screen option. I can see me finding other boards that don't have a invert screen option either.

I was wondering if it would be possible to flip the yoke with a a couple of DPDT switches, one for each yoke connector. In my head it should work but I was just wondering what type of voltage/current the yoke wires use and if normal or heavy duty DPDT switches would be up to it.

Obviously If I did go down this route I would find some connections so that I can make an inline adapter without butchering the original wiring

Any thoughts?

Guide:

I have this done for a while now but without the DPDTs, they arrived yesterday so I finished it off and took a few photos in case it helps anyone else.

Okay, these are the yoke connectors from the MS9. The idea is to wire a loom in so not to butcher the original wiring.



To make the loom we need some male and female connectors to wire the loom in line with the orginal yoke wires. I stripped the chassis and yoke off of a 29E31S I was dumped a while ago and so I stole the female yoke connectors from that.



To make the male connector I found some copper electrodes from an elecrtical discharge machine that fit the yoke connectors nicely. The diameters of the electrodes are 1.6mm and 3.2mm.



I cut the electrodes down to size and soldered them onto some cable:





If anyone needs some of the electrode to make their own loom let me know and I will send you some.

I also soldered some extension wires onto the female yoke connectors that I took from the 29E31S.

The new cables then plugged into the Nanao yoke connectors and onto the chassis:





For switches, I used some DPDT 16A rocker switches from Maplins.



The item number is GU54J and they are £1.89 each. You need two, one for each set of yoke wires.

You should then have two sets of wires going to the switches with four wires in each set. Make sure you keep the correct wires together, dont mix up the horizontal and vertical yoke wires!

To wire the switches, crimp some 6.35mm female spade connectors on the end. You need to add a extra set of connectors to one pair of the wires.



I used insulated crimps for the single wires, I didn't have any insulated crimps for larger gauge wires so I used a non insulated blue crimp and then insulated it with some heat shrink after taking that photo.

Then you just need to connect the crimps to the switches. There are two rows of three terminals on a DPDT switch, each row acts a SPDT switch. The centre terminals are common and the outer terminals are the two switched positions.

Connect the wires with the added connectors to one side of the switch and then criss cross the wires over the switch and connect them to the other side:



You can then add the remaining wires the the common centre terminals:



It doesn't matter which way round you connect these wires as long as you don't mix up the horizontal and vertical sets.

Repeat for the other side and you should be done. As everything is fully insulated you don't need to put them in a box or anything, I just put mine in the CP near the monitor remote board.



If you can't be bothered to wire up the DPDT switches you can just use some male/female bullet connectors etc. This is how I had it set up whilst I was waiting for the DPSTs to arrive.



To flip the yoke all you need to do is swap the connectors of the same colour round. I used different colour crimps so that I wouldn't mix the wires up.

[grantspain]

there was an old post on killercabs where someone did this
it will work fine

[kernow]

vib_ribbon did this on we-play-games also. advised to press the switches while off obviously.

*tries to dig up the thread*



http://www.we-play-games.com/community/ ... roject-box"

christ that was a ballache to find.

[FrancoB]

Awesome, cheers guys.

Thanks for digging that up kerns. Not too keen on the terminal block hackery though.

I think a couple of DPST switches would do just as good a job as long as they can handle the current.

Does switch rating matter? I have some spare sub miniture DPST slide switches but I imagine they will be too small. Depends on the current flow I imagine.

I was thinking a couple of something like this would be more appropriate:



[DPDT Heavy Duty Centre-off Toggle Switch]



Or maybe even a single 4PDT switch like this:



[1 x Heavy Duty 4PDT Foot Switch for Effects Pedals UK]

(sorry about the huge pics!)

Any thoughts?

[FrancoB]

I have been reading up a little more and found out that it would be best to use two DPDT switches rather than one 4PDT as some boards do no need flipping both ways and so you need control over each set of yoke wires independently.

I found a [thread over at shmups] with some discussion in it. slap_fight (who I presume is vib_ribbon) posted:

edit: i was also advised to use some good strong cables for this project and not so piddly ones. what you see in my photos are spare 2 pin power leads i had lying around with their heads snipped

I'm guessing I need some fairly heavy duty switches then, I'm just wondering what kinda rating I should be looking for?

Also, just for reference there is a instructables guide [here] that shows you how to reverse polarity with a DPDT switch.

I also need to find some yoke plugs to make up an inline adapter so not to hack the original wiring. I could just solder some wire to some pins for the male part but I need to find the female 'yoke connector' part which plugs into the chassis. Any ideas? I wish I had measured the pin spacing whilst I had it out yesterday

[kernow]

I gave my mate some, from an old VGA PC monitor that had died and just gutted for spares. The connectors inside were the same

[FrancoB]

Bah, I took a couple to VGA PC monitors to a skip recently

Anyone wanna take some stress out on an old monitor for me and scavenge some parts?

It would be nice to find a source though.

[emphatic]

It would be nice to find a source though.

I'll ask around for you.

[emphatic]

Did you look at mate-n-lock connectors, FrancoB?

[FrancoB]

I was thinking something like that may work, I need to take the monitor out again and measure the pitch of the pins.

Cheers emph

[FrancoB]

Its amazing what one can find if one uses the search function

http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9101"

You can haz them then sir. Need addrezz.

BTW - these came from a Naomi Yoke. Once you have them, if they definately fit, we should document that.

Manufacturer = CWB Electronics

"TJC2 Pressure Welding Bar Connector" is the small white one.

Part nos:

TJC2-2Y = Female connector, 2 positions
TJC2 = Pins

http://www.cwb.com.cn/en/proView.asp?id ... 16&iid=301"

"TJC1 Pressure Welding Bar Connector" is the large grey one.

Part nos:

TJC1-2Y = Female connector, 2 positions
TJC1 = Pins

http://www.cwb.com.cn/en/proView.asp?id ... 16&iid=305"

CWB have a German office and a US office (thankfully!) so we can probably ask them where we can buy the parts new...

Cheers DS

Looks like cools/DS used some from a Naomi Yoke. I stripped the chassis etc from a 29E31S a while ago, hopefully I kept the yoke wires too!

[FrancoB]

I have this done for a while now but without the DPDTs, they arrived yesterday so I finished it off and took a few photos in case it helps anyone else.

Okay, these are the yoke connectors from the MS9. The idea is to wire a loom in so not to butcher the original wiring.



To make the loom we need some male and female connectors to wire the loom in line with the orginal yoke wires. I stripped the chassis and yoke off of a 29E31S I was dumped a while ago and so I stole the female yoke connectors from that.



To make the male connector I found some copper electrodes from an elecrtical discharge machine that fit the yoke connectors nicely. The diameters of the electrodes are 1.6mm and 3.2mm.



I cut the electrodes down to size and soldered them onto some cable:





If anyone needs some of the electrode to make their own loom let me know and I will send you some.

I also soldered some extension wires onto the female yoke connectors that I took from the 29E31S.

The new cables then plugged into the Nanao yoke connectors and onto the chassis:





For switches, I used some DPDT 16A rocker switches from Maplins.



The item number is GU54J and they are £1.89 each. You need two, one for each set of yoke wires.

You should then have two sets of wires going to the switches with four wires in each set. Make sure you keep the correct wires together, dont mix up the horizontal and vertical yoke wires!

To wire the switches, crimp some 6.35mm female spade connectors on the end. You need to add a extra set of connectors to one pair of the wires.



I used insulated crimps for the single wires, I didn't have any insulated crimps for larger gauge wires so I used a non insulated blue crimp and then insulated it with some heat shrink after taking that photo.

Then you just need to connect the crimps to the switches. There are two rows of three terminals on a DPDT switch, each row acts a SPDT switch. The centre terminals are common and the outer terminals are the two switched positions.

Connect the wires with the added connectors to one side of the switch and then criss cross the wires over the switch and connect them to the other side:



You can then add the remaining wires the the common centre terminals:



It doesn't matter which way round you connect these wires as long as you don't mix up the horizontal and vertical sets.

Repeat for the other side and you should be done. As everything is fully insulated you don't need to put them in a box or anything, I just put mine in the CP near the monitor remote board.



If you can't be bothered to wire up the DPDT switches you can just use some male/female bullet connectors etc. This is how I had it set up whilst I was waiting for the DPSTs to arrive.



To flip the yoke all you need to do is swap the connectors of the same colour round. I used different colour crimps so that I wouldn't mix the wires up.

[emphatic]

Awesome. You should edit the first post (hide the original post in a spoiler) with the guide.

How long are the wires? What gauge are they?

[FrancoB]

You should edit the first post (hide the original post in a spoiler) with the guide.

Good idea! I'll do that in a mo. I'm going to put it in the Wiki too when I get chance to figure it out.

How long are the wires? What gauge are they?

I would say the wires are probably 30-45cm at a guess. I used standard two core power cable, the type used in hairdryers, lamps and other electrical devices. After having a bit of a google it looks like it would be around 15AWG or 42x0.19.

[OlDirty]

Someone found a store where you can buy these 2 connectors?

[zak]

Franco, can you help us find a place with these connectors?

[FrancoB]

I used to buy these from JST Japan in multiples of 10. I checked for someone a while back though and they changed some of the MOQs to 1000. You might be able to request some 'samples' from a local distributor though

5mm connector pins svf-01t-1.5a (MOQ 10)
5mm 2 pole connector 2p-svf-v (MOQ 1000)
5mm 2 pole header RTB-1.5-2P (MOQ 1000)
8mm crimp pins spf-01t-2.5c (MOQ 10)
8mm header rt-01n-2.3a (MOQ 10)

Failing that, look at the data sheets and find some connectors with similar specs elsewhere as they're fairly simple and you should be able to find something else to fit.

[zak]

I used to buy these from JST Japan in multiples of 10. I checked for someone a while back though and they changed some of the MOQs to 1000. You might be able to request some 'samples' from a local distributor though

5mm connector pins svf-01t-1.5a (MOQ 10)
5mm 2 pole connector 2p-svf-v (MOQ 1000)
5mm 2 pole header RTB-1.5-2P (MOQ 1000)
8mm crimp pins spf-01t-2.5c (MOQ 10)
8mm header rt-01n-2.3a (MOQ 10)

Failing that, look at the data sheets and find some connectors with similar specs elsewhere as they're fairly simple and you should be able to find something else to fit.

You're some!

[emphatic]

You're some!

QFT.

[PrincessPrinPrin]

I have lots of these cables (2 and 4 pins) pulled from PC monitors. If someone needs them PM me. Wire lenght is usually 20-30cm.