Autofire Circuit

Arcade cabinet hardware and accessories
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mastercello
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by mastercello »

Any 74HC04 will do...doesnt matter if it is SN or M (Company Markings) or B at the end (most likely temperature or other build, casing specs)
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by turntablism »

thanx. :thumbup: :thumbupright:
i found some SN74HC04N, and give it a try. should receive them in 7 days.

that auto fire circuit is a great idea !
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by yosai »

Just found a 74HC04N but I probably had more than one batch. The one you ordered should be fine.
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by wigsplitta »

yosai wrote: August 31st, 2018, 7:14 am The ones i used were 74HC04AP..
+1
They are what I used and work nicely
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by turntablism »

Yesterday I built one myself. I used a 470nF Tantalum capacitor. The result is :awe:
I have tried it with fantasy zone and had the feeling that I cheat :shifty:

thank you for sharing
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by wigsplitta »

The feeling of cheating slowly wears off after extended use, maybe...
The feeling of RSI & carpal tunnel certainly doesn’t 8-)
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by Drumloop »

Sorry for ressurecting this thread, but I found this article https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Passive_Autofire and this thread when I looked for some open source version of auto fire adapters as the people selling the advanced ones don't have stock. Going through the diagram though, and the pictures, there are some things that don't match up. For example that SW1 is connected directly to GND, and that the capacitor is on pin 4 and not 5. It also doesn't show which direction the capacitors are supposed to be directed.

So I tried to create this board, with the following changes:

* SW1 not directly connected to GND - as per all the pictures
* 100uf cap is on pin4, as diagram, and not pin 5 - However pin 4-5 are bridged so not sure it makes a difference
* The capacitors I choose are 2 100 uf 16v ones, as per the article and diagram, but I choose the ones that can be set in whichever direction as there was no info on the correct direction

The behavior I am getting is the following, after connecting the board to GND and the buttons:

* Nothing happens when pressing the buttons unless potentiometer is at the far end toward the leg that the cables are soldered to
* When having it to the far end, the shots that come are very slow
* It does not reach directly to the button pressed, you have to hold it for a while almost like something needs to charge before working

What could be wrong?

I have checked all components that they correspond to the ones listed in the diagram, and there are no shorts outside the bridges that are supposed to be there according to the diagram.

The game I am trying it with is a Outzone jamma pcb if that makes any difference.
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yosai
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by yosai »

Drumloop wrote: May 13th, 2021, 6:19 pm There are some things that don't match up. For example that SW1 is connected directly to GND, and that the capacitor is on pin 4 and not 5. It also doesn't show which direction the capacitors are supposed to be directed.
...
The game I am trying it with is a Outzone jamma pcb if that makes any difference.
SW1 is connected to pin 10.
Pins 4 & 5 are bridged.
The capacitors are non polarized.
These circuits do not work with all game PCBs. Try it with another from a different manufacturer.
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by Drumloop »

yosai wrote: May 13th, 2021, 7:40 pm
Drumloop wrote: May 13th, 2021, 6:19 pm There are some things that don't match up. For example that SW1 is connected directly to GND, and that the capacitor is on pin 4 and not 5. It also doesn't show which direction the capacitors are supposed to be directed.
...
The game I am trying it with is a Outzone jamma pcb if that makes any difference.
SW1 is connected to pin 10.
Pins 4 & 5 are bridged.
The capacitors are non polarized.
These circuits do not work with all game PCBs. Try it with another from a different manufacturer.
Yes that is how I've set it up, with non polarized capacitors as well.

I did however think it worked on all standard jamma pcbs, maybe that's where I was wrong then?

I guess I shouldn't have wasted time designing and ordering pcbs for this then :cry:
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by emphatic »

I've successfully used mine with Outzone (the circuit pictured on page one of this thread). Are you sure you've connected it correctly? For P1 Fire1, you're supposed to put it between the ground wire and the button, not between the P1 Fire1 wire and the button.
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by Drumloop »

emphatic wrote: May 13th, 2021, 10:16 pm I've successfully used mine with Outzone (the circuit pictured on page one of this thread). Are you sure you've connected it correctly? For P1 Fire1, you're supposed to put it between the ground wire and the button, not between the P1 Fire1 wire and the button.
Yes I've connected it instead of the ground wire.

I will have to meassure and see so I didn't get any bad caps from the store I guess
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by Drumloop »

So the boards I made and ordered arrived. Footprints are hard... But it works! :) Kind of happy hehe. I changed the potentiometer from the prototype though so might be related to that.
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by nem »

Nice job!

I've been meaning to build one of these for the longest time. You're not sharing the PCB design, are you? :awe:
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by emphatic »

Glad to hear you've got it working! :awe:
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by Drumloop »

Can I upload zip files in this forum? If so I could share the gerber after making the via holes larger.
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by nem »

Drumloop wrote: May 29th, 2021, 5:21 pm Can I upload zip files in this forum?
You can!

That would be grand if you did :)

A BOM wouldn't go amiss either.

Ta!
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by Drumloop »

Here is the gerber zip needed to order the pcbs :)

I don't have a BOM unfortunately, bought it from a local shop that doesn't have that system.
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by nem »

Excellent :awe:

Do you have a model number for the pot that you used?
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by Drumloop »

I used "Trimpot 3386P 10k (103)" which is the only info the page gives me.
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Re: Autofire Circuit

Post by nem »

Well, in the end I decided to design my own board. I thought it would be a nice learning experience. Here's my version:

passive_autofire_by_nem.jpg


Naturally, after designing the board based on the schematic in the wiki and ordering the boards, I actually went through the thread. Why was the non polarized capacitor changed to a 100uF? In the original board it's a small ceramic capacitor.

emphatic wrote: January 19th, 2010, 10:37 amI'll try to make out what that blue thing has printed onto it if it can't be visually identified by you lot. :awe:

Edit: It seems to say "474" or possibly "479".

474 = 470nF = 0.47uF

I'm not sure if it matters at all or not, but that's what I put on my board.

Anyway, it seems to work really well. I'm really pleased with the thing. Thanks to everyone that put in effort to make this thing public.

I ordered another set of boards that has the correct silk screen and a fixed a pin spacing issue on one component. Once that's here and everything checks out, I'll upload the gerbers and make a bill of materials. If anyone here wants one of these earlier boards, I have enough components to make extras. 20 euros delivered? PM me if interested.
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