Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

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zumbito
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by zumbito » March 12th, 2018, 8:12 am

Thanks!

barky65
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by barky65 » April 11th, 2018, 2:37 pm

I am really interested in getting a chewlix and have been obsessively doing research on the project. Oddly enough, I found the same Wanmo machine OP did before I found this forum, so I got a nice review here as well. The only thing I can't pin down is exactly how much shipping door to door would be. I have gotten a quote or two the puts shipping in the $700 USD range door to door, which I'm willing to pay, but I have been unable to find out if that covers EVERYTHING that would cost for the import. I am in the US, and I have heard there are things like customs brokers you sometimes have to pay for (but maybe that's only if you don't use door to door?), that you will have to pay before they release your delivery to you (DHL in particular mentions this). Could OP or someone with more experience tell me exactly what the costs would be for shipping to the US?

I found a post over on NeoGeo that confused me even more with this, because he seemed to have spent 650 dollars and then spent an addition 500 or more in fees. here's the link to the post: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthrea ... ost4277440 . I basically don't want to be in this guys situation if I pull the trigger on this, and the information out there about fees with importing is fractured at best.

mRCaESaR
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by mRCaESaR » April 12th, 2018, 6:37 am

barky65 wrote:The only thing I can't pin down is exactly how much shipping door to door would be.
This is hard to say because every country and freight company will be different.
barky65 wrote: I have gotten a quote or two the puts shipping in the $700 USD range door to door, which I'm willing to pay, but I have been unable to find out if that covers EVERYTHING that would cost for the import. I am in the US, and I have heard there are things like customs brokers you sometimes have to pay for (but maybe that's only if you don't use door to door?), that you will have to pay before they release your delivery to you (DHL in particular mentions this). Could OP or someone with more experience tell me exactly what the costs would be for shipping to the US?
I personally can't give much feedback from a US perspective. I can definitely say my costs didn't incur any other fees except for the fees I paid shipporter, but that's the reason I chose shipporter, because they were delivery door to door and all the costs they provide didn't have any additional fees.
barky65 wrote: I found a post over on NeoGeo that confused me even more with this, because he seemed to have spent 650 dollars and then spent an addition 500 or more in fees. here's the link to the post: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthrea ... ost4277440 . I basically don't want to be in this guys situation if I pull the trigger on this, and the information out there about fees with importing is fractured at best.
With importing though, you always have to give yourself a buffer, it may cost you an additional 10-20% to actually deliver to your door, but those are the fees you need to budget for.

I'm not sure but you might find someone local that may be in the same price range (ie. someone who imports them and resells locally) so you don't have to go through the hassle.

I have to re-iterate, my experience was flawless and headache free, my high level was as below:

- Contacted WanMo for a price on 1x unit and agreed on a price
- Contacted shipporter for a quote on 1x unit and agreed on a price
- Paid WanMo via PayPal
- Shipporter picked up from WanMo to Ship to Sydney
- Got my payment slip from shipporter and paid
- About 6 weeks later, Shipporter gave me a call and said "we have a delivery for you on x, can you be home"
- Delivered the unit as discussed with zero additional fees.

I would imagine there's a company like shipporter.com in the US where they deal with the end to end logistics from picking up from the warehouse in China, shipping the container to your nearest port, handling all the customs, brokerage and port fees, picking up from the port to their warehouse, then organise delivery from the warehouse to your door.

I wish I could provide more help, but I'm not familiar with importing in the US. Hope that somewhat helps.

Edit: might be worthwhile contacting these guys.. https://facebook.com/story.php?story_fb ... =504743498

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by aniquilatorbloody » May 21st, 2018, 10:07 pm

Hello,
After some research I found this forum. You guys rock! So much good info.
I've decided after seen what you guys said here that i'm going with a chewlix. I got the recommended suplier (Wanmo) and I want you guys knowledge to make sure i'm not missing anything.

I want to make sure of the following:
* can they provided a 1 player panel( no buttons, just the frame), so I can switch whenever I want.

* can the screen be rotated easily ? I saw what our bud here had to do for his to rotate, is there a way for me to ask it to be ready for it though?

* I'm in California - USA, does anyone know of a good door delivery in these parts?

I will ask them these three questions, but am I missing anything here? Any insight would be really appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by horse » May 21st, 2018, 10:58 pm

any one from the uk buy and arrange delivery?

is there any tips you can offer me?

mRCaESaR
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by mRCaESaR » May 21st, 2018, 11:19 pm

aniquilatorbloody wrote: * can they provided a 1 player panel( no buttons, just the frame), so I can switch whenever I want
.

I purchased my 1p cp from hk legend.

http://www.hklegend.com.hk/?page_no=3.1 ... show_case=

You could always ask for an additional 1p cp, I'm sure they'll be able to accommodate.

I bought marquees and spare parts.
aniquilatorbloody wrote: * can the screen be rotated easily ? I saw what our bud here had to do for his to rotate, is there a way for me to ask it to be ready for it though?
You want it to default as a vertical cab?

If so, the only way to do it with these particular cabs is through the brackets that you have to purchase.

And when in vertical, the panels don't 100% get fixed the way an original vewlix does.
aniquilatorbloody wrote: * I'm in California - USA, does anyone know of a good door delivery in these parts?
Can't say I can help there. My experience is only for AU. I think there have been people that organised door to door with the supplier so that's another option.

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by aniquilatorbloody » May 23rd, 2018, 7:34 am

purchased my 1p cp from hk legend.

http://www.hklegend.com.hk/?page_no=3.1 ... show_case=
Thanks mRCaESaR , the website you provided will be very handy. I was having some communication issues with them asking for this 1p panel.

So it seems they can't really ship it to me, so tomorrow i'm calling a forwarder in SF to see if they can help me.

I will keep you guys posted on this. Lets see how it goes.

glocknyne562
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by glocknyne562 » July 12th, 2018, 10:44 am

aniquilatorbloody wrote:
purchased my 1p cp from hk legend.

http://www.hklegend.com.hk/?page_no=3.1 ... show_case=
Thanks mRCaESaR , the website you provided will be very handy. I was having some communication issues with them asking for this 1p panel.

So it seems they can't really ship it to me, so tomorrow i'm calling a forwarder in SF to see if they can help me.

I will keep you guys posted on this. Lets see how it goes.
I'm also from Cali trying to order a clone from Alibaba. Were you able to successfully purchase one?

SentakuSelect
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by SentakuSelect » August 19th, 2018, 8:20 am

How are the quality of these cabs found from alibaba? I'm working up a new place in Toronto and I've had Vewlix cabs fabricated as single player setups (24" BenQ RL screens). They were great but I really disliked how they were painted, the paint was very light which you could see the wood grain. The cost not including parts, console, monitor and speakers were about $800 CAD after the prototype was made.
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Are these cabs made out of plastic with a metal frame? I was thinking that I should just grab some of these 32" 2P cabs for my next place and have my buddy help with the electronic and wiring mods for PS4 setups. Instead of 8 single slim cabs with HDMI splitters, probably save me a lot of trouble finding a new carpenter to make new 2P cabs for me.

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by mRCaESaR » August 20th, 2018, 1:00 am

SentakuSelect wrote:
August 19th, 2018, 8:20 am
How are the quality of these cabs found from alibaba? I'm working up a new place in Toronto and I've had Vewlix cabs fabricated as single player setups (24" BenQ RL screens). They were great but I really disliked how they were painted, the paint was very light which you could see the wood grain. The cost not including parts, console, monitor and speakers were about $800 CAD after the prototype was made.
Image
Are these cabs made out of plastic with a metal frame? I was thinking that I should just grab some of these 32" 2P cabs for my next place and have my buddy help with the electronic and wiring mods for PS4 setups. Instead of 8 single slim cabs with HDMI splitters, probably save me a lot of trouble finding a new carpenter to make new 2P cabs for me.
Quality is a very subjective word :D :D

As long as you set your expectations for what they are (vewlix clones), then you'll find they are fantastic. If you're expecting to get a real vewlix for 1/6th of the price, then you'll probably be disappointed - extremely.

For me, I came from having one of those MDF builds and I can tell you now, it's night and day in terms of quality. My MDF cab was professionally designed and cut through a CNC and it was quality. I spent many months doing the paint work for it and it came out perfect. However, once I get my hands on one of these cabs, I was more than happy with the product. The price of one of these cabs brand new was very very close to the price I paid for my MDF cab. If you include the time I spent prepping and painting, it's actually significantly more than the chewlix.

Is it a metal frame? Yes, it's power coated sheet aluminium for the shells, and hard plastic for the bezels. Some will say it's got quite a "tinny, hollow" sound when you play on it, but I would rather that than the perspex I used to have.

The one thing to take into consideration is this cab won't be perfect landed... I changed the buttons, I changed the wiring (but that's because I made it PS4 compatible). You could probably ask them to make it like that to begin with, but I didn't bother - the more things you change, the more likely it will end up costing more :)

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by Kavas » August 22nd, 2018, 2:02 am

....

Seriously? You have got to be shittin' me... Bro, mRCaESaR, this post had to come out after all the years I struggled alone?! :cry:
I finally have someone who understands the trials and tribulations I've gone through! Fellow Chewlix owner, let us embrace! .... Ok ok enough of that! :oops:
Think a TPS report is in order, I'll have it on your desk ASAP. Huge post incoming!

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Overview

I have been a Vewlix owner since 2014. I have visited Japan twice, and on both visits I went to Japanese arcades and was so enamored by the games, culture, atmosphere and especially the cabs, I knew I had to get one! After my second trip in 2014, I scoured the internets trying to find out how I could obtain a Vewlix. I eventually wound up here, but even then there was limited information about Vewlix or even Chewlix's. I was going to ask more around these forums, but some of the folks here seem kind of intimidating to rookies. JAMMA? JVS? PCB? I knew none of these words coming in.

Some folks went the MDF build-your-own route with schematics and primer. Although some of them looked cool, I live in Florida and the humidity is not kind to anything wood related. Also, as someone mentioned, MDF requires much TLC. I have zero woodworking skills and the cost of buying one at the time was also very expensive, not to mention I would still have to assemble it. I wanted something metal, something that would last! I could only read other posts about people going in lots to import a crate of Vewlix from Japan and those cost around $3,000 + smackaroos. To me, the Vewlix is a new age "HD" cabinet, and I wanted one to use MAME/Hyperspin on as well as connect my consoles to it. So I was fine with a knock off if I could find one.

I inquired to a few USA companies that dealt with candy cab stuff, like shadaloo I believe, but they didn't sell just the body of the cabinet like I wanted, they and many others asked I spend thousands on an entire setup that came with a single game.... Eventually I landed on alibaba and discovered "Chewlix" cabs. Chinese knock offs. I was hesitant to go through this route as Alibaba during that time was having news coverage about scams and people not receiving their goods. The CEO went on television and started saying he was cracking down on illegitimate listings and he would back anyone who was done wrong. This gave me a little more confidence.

Importing a cab

Because some people have asked about the process and experience importing a cab to America, I will describe my experience from what I remember.
I inquired to a few companies. First answer or so was like this:
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This is taken from Alibaba messages. As you can see, not all are happy to sell you a cab this way.

Then I struck gold:
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At first they had this for me:

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But then they said they didn't have that anymore, and provided me with this picture:

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:-o Notice the Versus cab in the back?! Beyond my budget at the time :cry:
More questions:

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Then comes all the paperwork, and finding out all the hidden fees. Since I've never imported anything this big before, this was all new to me. He quoted me a price at first, but later bumped it up.

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The seller should provide you with a proforma invoice and a bill of loading.

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Final total to him for cab and shipping?

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This doesn't include the stuff that I have to take care of on my end when it gets to port. He informs me of the rest, like getting a customs power of attorney that handles the clearance when it docks at your designation ports.

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I cannot remember how much this was, but I think it was a couple hundred bucks.
For me, it shipped to Miami, which is 3 hour drive from where I live in Florida. I opted to pick it up myself, so that's gas and time. There was a handling fee at the dock as well, to the warehouse which held my cab. If I didn't pick it up within a certain time limit, I think the charges would go up. I cannot recall how much this was. The dudes on the forklifts were zipping around so fast it was really dangerous, and Miami just sucks in general. The traffic getting there is atrocious.

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Finally at long last I brought it home. In the end it probably cost me $1500 shipped, not to mention everything I've spent after that customizing it. Seems Alibaba is littered with Cabs now, so maybe you can find a better deal.
Last edited by Kavas on August 22nd, 2018, 2:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by Kavas » August 22nd, 2018, 2:13 am

Mission goal and Golden rule!

Going forward, let me make it clear that my Golden rule for this cab is that any modifications I do to it, they are NOT permanent. Anything I remove I save, and can at any time restore it to factory default. I know this sounds silly to some as it's just a chewlix, but it was an ordeal getting it stateside for me, and since it's a chinese knock off, I do not know at this time how hard it would be getting any extra parts for it would be. This means no drilling into the chassis or plastics. I have saved everything so far.

Mission goal is to have a 1080p screen, with a computer setup with Hyperspin/Mame/etc and also it would work with atleast 2 extra consoles in a SEAMLESS transition experience. This means NO changing of cords, and that I can do EVERYTHING from just sitting in front of the machine without having to go under the hood. That entails automatic HDMI switcher, volume knob of some kind, extra buttons for MAME stuff/Extra controller buttons like touchpad/home/select etc. 4 years later I still am working on this beast!

Customization

Ok so going forward with the story...

I couldn't wait, so I tried to take it down off the truck bed myself. I got it half way off the back then realized how heavy it was! :-o :cry: It landed with a thud on one of the corners. I wanted to cry. All that time and now it surely will have damage, roughed paint, or a dent...... but then nothing. The thing is built like a tank! Seriously tho don't be stupid like me, and get some help! This is like a 2-3 man job.


Image
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It came with no screen, no electronics underneath. Surprisingly, it still had the speakers in it. I wanted to put my own 1080p screen into it because the 720p VGA screen these chinese cabs come with I figured must be garbage. As someone here has mentioned about the electricity and wiring shocking them, I knew I couldn't trust some shady setup from another country, besides I don't have no 240 volt outlets like Euro does. Standard here is 120 Volts. The speaker wires were green and orange, much like yours was mRCaESaR. There was no light strip on the move list on the control panel, so I had that to cover as well. Don't get me started on the joystick and buttons. They were so shitty. I knew I wanted new Sanwa parts anyways. To get started, I removed this big metal piece I think houses the screen guts from my cab. What is left looks different from mRCaESaR's cab, as there is a panel there with VESA mounting standard layout.

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TV

I bought a slim TV, a LG TV with a small bezel to get started. I wasn't versed on VESA wall mounts at the time, so I made my own wooden mount to bring the screen closer to the cabs glass bezel from 2* 2x4's and a piece of plywood that I fitted with screw holes. I used this HDMI switcher so there would be no bothering with cables.

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This worked, but doing it myself I couldn't get it exactly perfect the first time since it was a homemade mount. Still, it was close enough, I just wanted to play. You can only see just a small hair of the bezel of the TV on one corner of the cabs glass. A friend told me you would never notice it unless you pointed it out.

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Controls

I bought some sanwa parts.

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It feels like I am always under the hood on this thing. Originally I had PS360+ boards installed but since then I now have Brook UFB just like mRCaESaR does. I mentioned a custom control board so I bought a ABS plastic piece and cut it to size, drilled some 30mm holes, and mounted buttons. These are for my Home/Select/Touchpad since some games, like Tekken 7, require it for resetting in practice mode and whatnot. Since my cab came with 2 player controls, I needed 6 buttons atleast for both players. I have sanwa parts as you will see, and I installed new circle gates instead of square gates, and bigger/better actuators. But holy freaking christ, I knew something was wrong but I just couldn't quite put my finger on it.... literally! mRCaESaR mentioned the Chewlix sticks sit higher than normal sticks! I didn't even realize this! I started to think I had a problem with balltops and was about to switch to battops. I will look into getting this fixed ASAP! :D Thanks man!

I also installed a volume knob that removes the need for me to go under and change the master volume on the amp. The good thing about this, is that if you don't want someone turning up the volume past a certain level, you can set the master volume under the cab to a max threshold, so messing with the knob up top wont blow out your speakers. I fastened the plastic piece to the control board and saved the original piece as I didn't wanna mess that up. I used these screws and these nuts to hold it in place. I notice some people using the original piece and installing buttons into it like OP did, but I think this method also turned out nicely!

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Last edited by Kavas on August 22nd, 2018, 2:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by Kavas » August 22nd, 2018, 2:13 am

Sound

Speaking of speakers, there was only once post back then about Chewlix speakers. The drivers I believe are each a mere 10watts each, and as someone asked earlier, you can just take the two speakers on the right, and combine them into a single channel on the amp. Atleast, that's what I did. The amp I chose was a 2X40W amp and not very expensive. I was hesitant to go with this model as there was some issues people said with overheating, but I have never had a problem. There is no super thump to this system, but sitting so close to it, I don't think you need much bass/treble. At some point, I might pickup better speaker drivers, but getting them that small seemed to be troublesome to find when I originally looked. For now, this works fine!

Lights

The lighting was the next big hurdle. You would think it would be easy, get some LED strips and call it a day! Afraid not sons! I don't have the photo of the problem I ran into with LED strips, but the colored ones appear to be bigger than the single white ones, and since the tray the light sits in on the control panel for the movelist is shallow, the individual light dots show through and it looks weird. The cab I discovered later actually had the top marquee lights still, which were blue. I also ran into the problem of identifying the connector piece you mentioned, so I just made my own from some old molex connectors and ingenuity! I tied both the marquee light and the movelist light strips to this dimmer switch. Reason being I don't like a lot of lights and flair. I usually tend to get my PC cases Without lights. That said, candy cabs are meant to be loud, in your face, obnoxious, bright and colorful. For spectacle I can adjust the knob to brighten the lights, and when it is just me playing I can dim them or turn them off completely.

Brightest:
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Dimmer:
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Hard to pick up since the camera adjusts due to light levels.

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by Kavas » August 22nd, 2018, 2:15 am

Computer

With the remaining ABS plastic since there was some left over, I used it to make a panel coming out from the bottom of the cab a spot where I wanted my own power supply solution and even a network internet jack! Doesn't look pretty to be honest, but you never really look down there, so for now its fine. There was originally a piece of metal there that comes off which of course Ive saved. I think it was meant for stuff like this. The power outlet is from Mouser, 15amp, and has a rocker switch. I chose this since I don't always want the cab on and draining juice. Inside is a power strip.

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Down below I have an old PC rig. It has 8 gig ram, I5 proc, Nvidia 6600 GTX TI. It is still strong enough to run Tekken 7 on high settings amazingly, which uses the unreal engine 4. The idea is to always put in the old pc parts when I make a new pc. It doesn't have a case and is just sitting on the wood with the standoffs holding it up. The power supply is in the back with it's fan pointing up towards the cab exhaust fan. The heat levels have never been an issue. I am thinking of getting some small older case and making it more stable though. The hard drive bays are also shown with the blue fan/hdd cage. The idea here is to setup Hyperspin/Roms/Joy2Key/etc all on a drive separate from the main OS drive, so that way when I do change out the rig, I won't have much work to do getting it up and running again :D

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I want to put a PS4 and PS3 down there as well, but that seems to be the real issue Ive had. Turns out the Brook UFB has Home button support, but not to turn on the console with! isn't that dumb?! This means I will have to keep the consoles outside of the cab for now, and run a USB/HDMI cord out the back for now. I tried using this USB hub, to connect my Brook UFB to, and then run USB's from the Hub to the respective PC/Consoles but it didn't work. :( Guys over at Arcade-controls forums suggest I try a KVM switcher. If anyone knows a way to do what I want, that way I can keep everything under the cab, that would be great!

Frontend

I've spent the past two weeks working on the Hyperspin/Frontend side of things. I believe the cab should be for cabby stuff. I see people on youtube showing off 150+ wheels, but most of it is trash I would never play, atleast not on a cabinet. I have most of the consoles anyways where those games belong, and spent absorbent amounts of money getting them all RGB modded, scart cables and switchers, SD card reader mods, etc. I will have mainly cabinet games, fighters, beat-em-ups, that kind of thing, as well as tied to my steam account for games like KI and Tekken 7, and the new SC6 8-) Don't get me started on setting up Nesica, Taito wheels. The Demul stuff with Atomiswave and Naomi wasn't difficult, but the newer the arcade game, the more finicky to set it up is. Almost easier to just link everything to my Steam account :awe: I bought the lifetime memberships for Hyperspin and Emumovies to make the process easier. Everyone these days seems to be talking about Launchbox. Guess the guys over at Hyperspin notice, and are working on a whole new sync system/program to modernize the process of Frontend work. I like it because it's flashy as a Japanese cab should be 8-)

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Artwork

You might have noticed the custom marquee I made, and some of the movelists. The marquee I had a friend make with images I found online, and had it printed out on a vinyl sticker attached to PVC board.

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The movelists are from seiiseiiseii on ebay. He makes repros and lately seems to be giving the Vewlix some love. Just bought this month 4 more sets from him! :awe: My favorite is the Blazblue so far, because back then he actually took the time to translate them. Think people are looking for more authentic pieces now, so he doesn't translate the movelists anymore. Still, finding actual movelist pieces is really tough. I've asked around on these forums and never quite got a clear answer. I think some of these folks are hiding their sources :problem:

In the photos you can see the lighted move list on the control panel is starting to warp a little. Seiiseii recommends not laminating the artwork except the ones near the screen bezel. I might have to eventually laminate them as I am scared of getting these damaged. As for attaching them to the cab, seiiseii mentioned velcro, but I didn't want anything stuck to it as sometimes without the artwork the cab looks cool. So I used magnetic tape! Genius!

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Things to do:

I eventually want to get the coin mech working, but it's some weird chinese one. I don't know how these things work normally, but from what I have gathered so far, you want to keep it on N.O. (normally open) switched, and slow for the speed. It didn't come with any wires as I think they took that out, and the plug I don't recognize, but I think I've found the right parts and ordered them $3 shipped from china.

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If anyone knows how this thing works, let me know.

I want to get a single player panel, but didn't know where to get one until I read this post. Going to be picking up one of those real soon! I talked to a machinist the other day, when I do get the 1p panel, he is going to cut me a 4K, 8th hole to be more in line with modern sticks. Thing is, I would have to get the taito control panel sticker design from somewhere and redo the artwork so it doesn't look out of place. Anyone know if this design is floating around somewhere? Also, Getting the automatic switching of the controls is still a work in progress. Probably last major hurdle for me.

I also want to get a stool for the cab, as of now I am just using my computer chair. I saw those custom stools OLDBYTE posted, those things look sick! $30 for custom covers?! What logos you have? Will the art fade? Can I have my own design? Are those highway $55 chairs good and comfy?

I see official Taito stools seem to be hard to come by, and recently saw this :

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Some sort of official Vewlix chair? Wish I could get one of these! Might make me reconsider putting in a 1p panel :)

Also, mRCaESaR, do you have any spare 100 yen coin stickers left? ;) Those are also hard to come by it seems.

Any questions feel free to ask!

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by mRCaESaR » August 22nd, 2018, 2:43 am

Thanks for the series of posts!!

I love reading them!

I'm wanting to do something very similar as your PC setup. However, mine is all enclosed in a small form factor pc (sandy bridge i7, 8gb, gtx 1050 low profile).

To be honest though, I've barely touched my HD setup as I've been taken over with the Astro Cities. I've been tinkering a lot with my astro city, installing groovymame and also getting 240p from my 360 to play on the astro city for Cave shmups and finally getting a namco arcade gun to work on the ps2 + astro city.. it's been a crazy 6 months with the astro's and the vewlix has been neglected :D :D :D

I do want to finish it off and put a repro Vewlix C control panel, update the artwork, install new LEDs for the marquee (change it from blue to white) and also install LEDs for the move list.

Also, your back plate is the best one of all the chewlix's, why? Because that looks exactly like the original vewlix and it looks like you don't need special brackets to rotate your cab.

zumbito
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by zumbito » August 22nd, 2018, 8:05 am

Hi guys, another Chewlix owner here. I have a TypeX2 in it, and have it working with the same coin mech it came from. Not sure if you need any help Kavas, cause it is not the same as a PC, but anything you need, let me know. Next step for me is put PC in, can't wait to play some SFV in this thing, but want to go cheap on that, as I spend more time with projects than playing itself ( this hobby...). Maybe change the screen to 1080, but I don't really see any problem with the stock one. Mine came with no LED lights but would be cool to have some with a dimmer in case they are too bright

mRCaESaR
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by mRCaESaR » August 22nd, 2018, 8:18 am

zumbito wrote:
August 22nd, 2018, 8:05 am
Hi guys, another Chewlix owner here. I have a TypeX2 in it, and have it working with the same coin mech it came from. Not sure if you need any help Kavas, cause it is not the same as a PC, but anything you need, let me know.
Like Kavas, I could never get mine to work. I think I'm missing parts since when I press the coin return, it never does anything.

I also can't for the life of me get a coin to go into the coin catcher. I've got the same type of coin in the replace coin section, but when I put a coin in, it never goes down to register the coin.. weird. I gave up. One day I would like to have it working lol.
zumbito wrote:
August 22nd, 2018, 8:05 am
I spend more time with projects than playing itself ( this hobby...).
This is me!! LOL

I've spent more time tinkering, modifying, crimping, soldering, wiring etc on projects than actually playing!

My 360 to Jamma project... https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37331

Then my Scart to Jamma Namco PS2 gun project.. https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37912

At some point, I will come back to this and get a nesicaxlive setup..

zumbito
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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by zumbito » August 22nd, 2018, 8:28 am

mRCaESaR wrote:
August 22nd, 2018, 8:18 am

Like Kavas, I could never get mine to work. I think I'm missing parts since when I press the coin return, it never does anything.

I also can't for the life of me get a coin to go into the coin catcher. I've got the same type of coin in the replace coin section, but when I put a coin in, it never goes down to register the coin.. weird. I gave up. One day I would like to have it working lol.
Let me know if you need help with that. I have noticed that the coin rejection mechanism and the push button are really bad designed, I wonder how are those in the vewlix. I would like to see them in your cabs, cause in mine, although it works, definitely looks like it is missing something, it is terribly wobly.


mRCaESaR wrote:
August 22nd, 2018, 8:18 am

This is me!! LOL

I've spent more time tinkering, modifying, crimping, soldering, wiring etc on projects than actually playing!

My 360 to Jamma project... https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37331

Then my Scart to Jamma Namco PS2 gun project.. https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37912

At some point, I will come back to this and get a nesicaxlive setup..
Hahahaha you seem pretty busy. I don't get in so complicated stuff, just cleaning and restoring are enough work for me. And need something to work on my swing for 4 players. Still haven't figured it out how.


Kavas, regarding the turning on problem, why don't you just use a normal DualShock to turn the console on? Still you will have to open for changing games, maybe having the console outside the cab is not a bad idea. At some point I was thinking of putting everything inside, but didn't know how to connect one brooks board to various systems (PC, PS4, PS3, and Xbox 360) at the same time. Do you have a way to solve this?

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by Kavas » August 22nd, 2018, 7:00 pm

mRCaESaR wrote:
August 22nd, 2018, 8:18 am

Like Kavas, I could never get mine to work. I think I'm missing parts since when I press the coin return, it never does anything.

I also can't for the life of me get a coin to go into the coin catcher. I've got the same type of coin in the replace coin section, but when I put a coin in, it never goes down to register the coin.. weird. I gave up. One day I would like to have it working lol.
This is the same for me. It wasn't wired so I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but it always goes out the return slot. I am going to make the cable myself, but I have no idea how to connect it to my PC or brook? There are 6 wires that come out from it. There is the power and ground wire (DC 12V 60mA) which I guess I need to cobble together a power adapter too, then there is the N.C.(normally closed) and N.O. (normally open) wires which I am not sure what they do, but I have heard the better option is N.O. ? Where do I connect these too? Then there is the Coin counter and coin accept wire. Coin counter probably sends pulses to add to some counter somewhere to keep count of how many tokens have been taken since install. The coin accept wire I think is what you see on your screen when you insert a coin and it goes from 0 to 1. Both of these wires I have no idea how to rig up to my system. Since it is not a arcade board and I am not using any sort of JAMMA wiring solution, I would assume I would need to dedicate a button on my brook to "coin" and then somehow wire the coin accept to that. I just don't want to start feeding wires into my Brook or PC without undestanding how it works first. Maybe some pictures of Zumbitos setup?


mRCaESaR wrote:
August 22nd, 2018, 8:18 am

This is me!! LOL

I've spent more time tinkering, modifying, crimping, soldering, wiring etc on projects than actually playing!
That's all of us! There's fun in that too!

zumbito wrote:
August 22nd, 2018, 8:28 am
Kavas, regarding the turning on problem, why don't you just use a normal DualShock to turn the console on? Still you will have to open for changing games, maybe having the console outside the cab is not a bad idea. At some point I was thinking of putting everything inside, but didn't know how to connect one brooks board to various systems (PC, PS4, PS3, and Xbox 360) at the same time. Do you have a way to solve this?
I could technically do some kinda pad hack exclusively for the home button so I could turn it on from my control panel, but thats a waste of a controller, and also another wire in the cab to keep the board charged, not to mention if I add any other consoles I would have to do more pad hacks. Sure you could just do it remotely from a controller on the outside, but that means I always have to keep it handy like a remote.

I don't plan on using actual physical media if I put those consoles on the inside, as I have a ton of digital purchases of games already. That said, there are some I have disks of, like Dengenki Bunko: Fighting Climax, which is one reason I could just keep the consoles on the outside. Not like I am going to be moving it around much.

Your last question I have gone over above, but basically no I haven't figured it out. I think some kind of KVM switcher (Keyboard, Video, Mouse) like this one might work, but I have yet to test it. Ideally from my brook UFB it should go into the switcher, and then when I want to switch the controller from my PC to my PS4 for example, I press the button and it then sends my button presses to the selected system. I would love to automate this like I did with the HDMI switcher, but I don't know if they have KVM Switchers that automate. It's all very simple yet seems like such a niche product one would ask for :problem:

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Re: Chewlix C (Chinese Vewlix Capcom)

Post by Kavas » August 22nd, 2018, 7:07 pm

I don't think I mentioned this in my original posts, but the picture behind my marquee you see two buttons. The white one turns on my TV. The red/black one turns on my PC. I don't ever wanna bother going down there to bother with stuff. I want to make it as simple as possible.

For the TV button, since the bezel on this machine is metal, there is no getting IR signal through it to turn on my TV. That meant I would have to open up the back, reach my hand in, and turn on the tv Via button, which looks jank as hell. :problem: So I literally got a universal remote from goodwill, set it up to work with my TV, and then soldered on the wires from the button to the remote and left it in the cab pointing towards the IR sensor on the inside. :lol: :oops: Once a year I just have to replace the AAA batteries in the remote. The purpose for this is ofcourse, If I don't want the PC on but am using a console then I still have a way to turn on the TV. Modern consoles like the PS4 have a way to turn on the TV when it boots up, but PC's and older consoles don't.

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