Coin Slot on Astro City Keeps Registering Credits

[mjmjr25]

When I put a coin into my astro city (or add a credit manually on the coin sensor) it continues to "feed credits", or at least it continues to make the sound of feeding credits. The only way to stop it is to hold the lever down for about 2 full seconds, then it stops.

I prefer to coin feed, so would like to fix this if its a common problem / easy fix? Looking at it, everything looks in good shape and wired correctly.

The main problem is games on the Taito F3 system don't have a free play option, best I can do is 1 coin / 6 credits. So I add a coin, then the coin "sound" rings continuously. I go to cancel it by holding the sensor down, and then I get a "coin error" message. Then I start the process over again and the same result, so basically I can't even play F3 stuff on that cab right now.

Sound familiar to anyone? Thanks!

[Korszca]

Is the microswitch on the coin mech OK?

[mjmjr25]

Yeah, its good.

I haven't looked closely enough at how its wired (since I really don't know what i'm looking for - for sure). My initial google searches were suggesting it could be wired to Normally Closed, instead of Normally Open. Could this response (continual credit feeding) be the result of that?

I'll try and get a pic here in a bit...

[Korszca]

If it was wired NC then you would continually get credits except when adding a coin (oh the irony )
Honestly it just sounds like the microswitch is bad. It happens.
I'm not sure where you're located but this is what you're looking for:
http://uniarcade.com/microswitch/coin_switch.htm"

Also, FWIW, you can always add credits using the service switch. May not be as easy to do on an Astro vs. a Blast but it's something to keep in mind.

[mjmjr25]

If it was wired NC then you would continually get credits except when adding a coin (oh the irony )
Honestly it just sounds like the microswitch is bad. It happens.
I'm not sure where you're located but this is what you're looking for:
http://uniarcade.com/microswitch/coin_switch.htm"

Also, FWIW, you can always add credits using the service switch. May not be as easy to do on an Astro vs. a Blast but it's something to keep in mind.

Located in MN, USA.

The astro service switch is very accessible, so thats a short term solution, yeah

Boy, I spose the switch could be bad, but its actually doing exactly what you said, now as I put in a cps2 game and hit power, I can hear it constantly registering. The sound before must've been blending in w/the arkanoid music, but its clear as day on cps2 stuff, and if hold the sensor down - it stops. If I let it back up, it starts dinging credits.

Heres a pic, really clueless as to whether you could tell something was wrong w/the microswitch from this pic????

[opt2not]

An easy test is to pull the connection leads off that switch and hook them up to a regular button switch. Then see if the credits are registering, (or not) properly. If so, you got a bad switch (easily replaced). If you're still seeing the credit feeding problem, you might have a deeper issue -- whether on the F3 board, or a wiring short somewhere in the loom.

[Korszca]

Unfortunately microswitches are often a "broken on the inside" type deal so you can't really tell just by looking at the shell.
I'm assuming this was at one point fine but now is bad?
Try what opt2not said about putting another switch on it. I'd use a spare Sanwa/Seimitsu (or Happ) button. Just be aware that the Japanese button terminals will be a little smaller than the quick disconnects.
Some other things you might try are make sure the wiring is OK, and if you can clean it to do that. But honestly I'd just replace mine if the switch is the issue. Sadly (insanely) they aren't cheap. And the only US supplier I found was on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CHERRY-E53-110P927- ... 0210510790"

You would have to reuse the pole from your original switch but that's easy to take off and put back on.

[thomj]

I bet you have it set to normally open. try shifting the connector along.

[opt2not]

I bet you have it set to normally open. try shifting the connector along.

Don't you mean Normally Closed? Normally Open is what you want, and by the looks of that picture you have it wired correctly.
It's probably something to do with the internal parts of that switch being buggered like Korszca mentioned.

[thomj]

whatever. can't hurt to try the other way can it?

[Korszca]

whatever. can't hurt to try the other way can it?

Nope. At worst it just doesn't change anything.

[mjmjr25]

Thanks, yeah i'll try to switch when I get home, hopefully that is all it takes. Thanks -