cps2 repair method of correct voltage number

[kobayuz777]

I started it with a suicide tester, but it is displayed normally.



Since revision 7 could be programmed by raising the voltage by 1 V,
Is MSHJ in revision 4 also the cause is voltage?

[leonardoliveira]

With suicide tester eprom connected to the board, try programming the key. If after programming key the suicide tester still boots, key programming failed and Arduino wiring is connected wrong.

[kobayuz777]

Finally revision 4 has revived!

I got information on another site.
Only the cable of CN2's clock (Arduino # 11)
I made the cable 6 times longer and programmed it succeeded.






For reference, I connected it to the CN2 of B board.
I used a USB charger for power supply.
The reason is not well understood. Is it due to signal timing delay etc?

But,
Even if I use Arduino which made the cable long on CN board 2 of A board, it did not go well.

Ideally, I would like,
If you can program with CN2 on board A, you do not need to solder every time
I think it's good.

Why does it fail on A board?

[leonardoliveira]

Glad to hear you got it to work.

[kobayuz777]

I put resistance in clock PIN.
Result is,
You can now program even from CN2 on A board!
It seems that there was noise in the clock signal (A31 of CN2). I added a resistance and it got beautiful.



If you know, please let me know,
After installing a new battery (3.6 V) on B board, after measuring the voltage,
3.2 V was measured.
It seems to be somewhat lower than normal. Besides, the battery ran out again in a couple of days.

Where does the battery leak out?
Do you recover by replacing the capacitor?

[leonardoliveira]

Sadly you likely bought a bad/fake Chinese battery. Lithium batteries only have voltage drop when they're almost 90% drained/dead. So if voltage falls it means they're already on the last leg.

If you board uses CN2 to program key and has no 4K7 resistor from A32 pin to C32 pin you must install. The resistor protects the board from key corruption when power is turned on/off on the arcade cabinet.

[kobayuz777]

The battery itself is outputting 3.7 V from 3.6 V.
However, when it is measured by mounting it on the b-board, it will only appear about 3.2 V.

And today, I attached a 4.7K resistance. (It was once removed in programming experiment)
As a result, it became 3.28 V and it got slightly higher.

However, other healthy boards have a voltage of 3.6 V or more, just by the battery power. (Even if it does not connect to a super gun)
After all, is there a drawback somewhere on this board?

[leonardoliveira]

Not impossible that the DL-1525 (SPA, the CPU) chip may have suffered damage and is drawing too much current from the battery. You can use a multimeter to test how much current it is draining from the battery. Can test in a known good board and compare with the bad board. Luckily for you it's possible to just use decrypted ROMs and keep the board usable.

[kobayuz777]

Not impossible that the DL-1525 (SPA, the CPU) chip may have suffered damage and is drawing too much current from the battery. You can use a multimeter to test how much current it is draining from the battery. Can test in a known good board and compare with the bad board. Luckily for you it's possible to just use decrypted ROMs and keep the board usable.

I was relieved a bit because I heard no current leaked from the chip.

However, CPS 2 that I own possesses two boards that voltage drops immediately.
It seems to be a well occurring event as it is a board with batteries installed.
I hope to know the place where battery load is applied to some extent.

[leonardoliveira]

Not impossible that the DL-1525 (SPA, the CPU) chip may have suffered damage and is drawing too much current from the battery. You can use a multimeter to test how much current it is draining from the battery. Can test in a known good board and compare with the bad board. Luckily for you it's possible to just use decrypted ROMs and keep the board usable.

I was relieved a bit because I heard no current leaked from the chip.

However, CPS 2 that I own possesses two boards that voltage drops immediately.
It seems to be a well occurring event as it is a board with batteries installed.
I hope to know the place where battery load is applied to some extent.

I think there is a good chance you just got bad batteries from China and your board isn't really broken...

[kobayuz777]

Sadly you likely bought a bad/fake Chinese battery. Lithium batteries only have voltage drop when they're almost 90% drained/dead. So if voltage falls it means they're already on the last leg.

If you board uses CN2 to program key and has no 4K7 resistor from A32 pin to C32 pin you must install. The resistor protects the board from key corruption when power is turned on/off on the arcade cabinet.

I am sorry over time
I would like to ask leonardoliveira.
Should I also add a 4k7 resistor to the B board of revision 7?
Even if I program revision 7
It seems that B board will commit suicide immediately when it is separateed from the A board.

[NoAffinity]

I fixed a friends board that had a faulty diode at d1. The battery would appear low at installation - around 3.2 like you report. Within a week the battery would be dead. Replaced d1, no problem since. May or may not be your problem but if you have a board with no problems that you can borrow d1 from, it's an easy test. Of course removing d1 for test will kill the donor and require reprogramming it.

Oh and the tadiran batteries from Israel are always good, from my experience.

[kobayuz777]

I fixed a friends board that had a faulty diode at d1. The battery would appear low at installation - around 3.2 like you report. Within a week the battery would be dead. Replaced d1, no problem since. May or may not be your problem but if you have a board with no problems that you can borrow d1 from, it's an easy test. Of course removing d1 for test will kill the donor and require reprogramming it.

Oh and the tadiran batteries from Israel are always good, from my experience.

Thanks for posting.
Is D1 here?



Replace here?

[NoAffinity]

Yes, that's it

[kobayuz777]

Yes, that's it

It is a picture of problematic B board.

Everyone knows,
Batteries explode and capacitors, etc., are blowing away.
D1 has little damage.
Rather, D5 is completely deleted.
Is D1 and D5 the same diode?

There is also a donor board. However, I do not know whether it is a normal part.
It seems to be a general-purpose diode, can you buy substitute items at a store?

[leonardoliveira]

D5 is missing, means the battery won't be giving out any power to the board.

Each of those diodes allow either the main power supply or the battery to supply power to the security circuit inside the CPU chip (DL-1525/SPA) without being possible for the power to return. I'd guess D5 is for supplying power from the battery. Since you're in Japan you should have no problem finding a replacement diode on a online shop.

I follow this shop on twitter (because they sell electronics hobby stuff like music boards and computer chips) and they might be able to help you with this repair: https://kadenken.com/

[NoAffinity]

Good info, leonardo, and now those diodes make a little more sense to me. d1 is for battery supply. If you measure it, it will measure something slightly less than what measures at the battery, under normal (not externally powered) conditions. The diode will measure around 3.35v iirc, and that will the be the same out at exc1 and other parts of the circuit near the chip. But d5 measures at 0v and now I understand why since I have never measured it with the board powered externally.

[kobayuz777]

I thought about attaching a diode to D5 for the time being.

However,
As Board land was peeling off, I think I should make it a jumper.



http://akizukidenshi.com/catalog/g/gI-08709/
Is it safe to use Zener diode?

The capacitor of CC1 bought a substitute item.
should I have it installed?