CPS2 advice

[Spectre]

The other factor with the battery debate is the batteries can decide to explode/leak for no readily apparent reason. I wouldn't say its a very common issue, but if it does happen your board will quite likely be damaged beyond repair.

Personally I prefer the leo/idc fixes as they lack the phoenix edition "upgrades".

In my experience boards running on battery are slightly more desirable than fixed ones. This is because most arcade nerds have ocd.

Just play it. If the battery dies, pop the program roms off the board and get them fixed. Imho its not worth the time/effort/expense changing the battery.

[pubjoe]

Just play it. If the battery dies, pop the program roms off the board and get them fixed. Imho its not worth the time/effort/expense changing the battery.

That's possibly what I'll end up doing, but if contradicting laziness wasn't the winning factor, and you have a soldering iron, surely changing the battery is about the easiest job you can do with it. Cheap too.

[ninjawyatt]

Personally I prefer the leo/idc fixes as they lack the phoenix edition "upgrades".

The what?

[moshpit]

http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=21688"

[FreedomGundam]

First post here.

I've just recently gotten into CPS2 boards, and I was originally wondering to get them Phoenixed or just switch the battery.
My first board was an SSF2 Blue board, with the Capcom "C" security bolt and the warranty stickers. Popped it open, and saw a Maxell battery; could it have been still the same stock one running from the early/mid 90s?

Anyhow, I made an effort to do the keystone mod on all my boards just to make future battery swaps easier. I think there's something just "nicer" about running the original code rather than the Phoenixed ones, if possible. I'd have no problems getting things Phoenixed if any of my batteries crap out on me, or a get a dead board directly.

[idc]

Anyhow, I made an effort to do the keystone mod on all my boards just to make future battery swaps easier.

Seen boards die because of those Keystone holders. The connectors can tarnish over time and contact resistance increases, causing the voltage passing through to dip enough to kill the board.

[FrancoB]

I think it's much better to use a standard lugged battery. With a holder you are only saving what, 5 minutes per board every five years?

[FreedomGundam]

Seen boards die because of those Keystone holders. The connectors can tarnish over time and contact resistance increases, causing the voltage passing through to dip enough to kill the board.

I think it's much better to use a standard lugged battery. With a holder you are only saving what, 5 minutes per board every five years?

Thanks for the info and advice guys.
At this point, I've used up all of the 5 Keystone holders that I had on-hand anyways. I'll probably switch to using lugged batteries on my next board (whenever I get another one), and I'll look into removing the Keystone holders the next time I need to switch those boards.

[cowise]

I'm looking to get into CPS2 stuff as well and this thread has been invaluable, thanks for all of the good information!

How much time do you have when swapping the battery before the board dies?

[Johnnychaos]

I'm sure it was something like 15min. More then enough time anyway.

All motherboards are black dude. But grey Asian boards will only play on Asian montherboards.
As long as the connectors match up its fine

[cowise]

I'm sure it was something like 15min. More then enough time anyway.

All motherboards are black dude. But grey Asian boards will only play on Asian montherboards.
As long as the connectors match up its fine

Thanks for the answers! Yeah, I tried to (unsuccessfully) edit out my other question unnoticed, because I realized after a little more research how the region pairing works between A and B boards. I appreciate the help!