The Initial D thread

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andygeezer
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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by andygeezer » September 11th, 2011, 3:25 pm

Spectre wrote:
andygeezer wrote:
Alukid wrote: Edit: What i finde much worse though is the outrun 2sp forcefeedback not working correctly when changing view to inside the car (not an issue on OR2)
That issue is really bad - it's at the point where I ripped out the Chihiro and never to load it again with OR2SP at least..

The bug is also present in Lindbergh OR2SDX version as well.. :palm:
What we really need is some kind of resident sega expert codemonkey who can come up with a fix... :think:

;)
I did fix it for Lindbergh.. The code could be fixed for Chihiro also, but it's a signed .xbe
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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by MartinW » September 11th, 2011, 4:14 pm

johnbud wrote:so questions.
if the steering is restricted on the id cab will the control unit find an error, or recalibrate on the available resistance ???

will reducing the travel on the id cab steering wheel, result in a burn out of either the motor or control unit ??? or possibly a circuit breaker will kick in.
Cheers John, that's basically all the questions I had and was going to put in a separate thread so that pretty much covers it :awe: Physically restricting the movement for less of the "Double Decker Bus effect" didn't ought to be too hard but I wouldn't know if there would be any software or electronic implications.
johnbud wrote:i would really only want this cab, but it would be nice to play other games etc. i tried or2 on the sharkfactors, and it was nice. i also played on petes or2 at replay last year. but both had replacement control panels.
Again, pretty much my sentiments exactly!

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by outrun2 » September 12th, 2011, 12:12 am

Swapping the control panel out is an easy enough job (if you can find a spare Model 3 dash!) but I wouldn't want to do it each time I fancied a change of game. The panels weigh a ton!

I played OR2 with an iD wheel during my long search for a Model 3 panel and while it is strange at first you do get used to it- actually makes the game a little harder which is no bad thing!

hehe only one real solution- do what I do and have one cab for iD1/2/3 and one (or 2 ;) ) for OR2/WMMT2 :awe:
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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by johnbud » September 12th, 2011, 10:59 am

just a thought, if the wheel movement is shortened to 270 degrees on the id cab. could a resistor be added to the common wire to compensate for the loss of resistance on the pos and neg legs ???

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by MartinW » September 12th, 2011, 11:16 am

Problem with that is that you will lose the bottom end range of the pot. So, if, for instance you have a 5k pot and you add a 1k resistor it will then go from 1k to 6k. With movement restricted it will go from (random figures here!) 250 to 4.75k so your loss will be even. If you see what I mean.

Obviously until someone chimes in with what the boot up calibration process does, then it's impossible to say what we may need to do. Or not. And then as you say, there could be an impact on the force feedback too. None of these things had really occurred to me before :)

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by MartinW » September 14th, 2011, 2:07 pm

Is no-one going to chip in with info on the kickback initialisation and the specs of the pot and what it may all mean to a restricted ID wheel then?

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by johnbud » September 22nd, 2011, 8:12 am

can anybody confirm the pot and driver board are the same as the or2 set up ???

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by outrun2 » September 22nd, 2011, 9:07 am

The driver board and pot are the same on both OR2 and iD.

Both games also do the drive board test the same way - turning the wheel right and then letting go - haven't really noticed if the iD test moves the wheel more to the right or if it's the same number of increments.

It appears it's just the wheel restrictor assembly that's more complex on iD allowing the wheel to turn the extra amount required.

Not played iD on the OR2 cab to know if the less lock-to-lock affects the turning ability of the car in-game.
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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by johnbud » September 22nd, 2011, 9:47 am

ive got 2 members coming round tomorrow, i think i will try restricting the wheel. surely going on the fact that the pot and board are the same, then it must be the board which auto calibrates the resistance on offer. if anybody knows that i will damage the board then please chip in. the last thing i need is a broken driver board. i should also add that i will be moving the pedals over to the right side of the cab. these must be made for peeps who drive on the wrong side of the road. its noticeable with big legged people who have problems hitting the steering wheel whilst trying to brake.

cheers for the info bud.

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by MartinW » September 22nd, 2011, 10:33 am

Let me know how you get on with that John. I'm all poised to have a go at this end too when I get the time :)

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by outrun2 » September 22nd, 2011, 10:37 pm

I should add that the the gearing is different on the two types of panel so this is why the same pot can be used. The gear on the iD wheel shaft is smaller than the OR2 shaft so more turns are required to get the same travel on the pot.
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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by LoRez » September 23rd, 2011, 8:36 am

johnbud wrote:its noticeable with big legged people who have problems hitting the steering wheel whilst trying to brake.
The seat runners are mounted towards the front of the metal box they sit on so,remove seat and runners,turn the metal box around,re-mount seat and runners.No more legroom problems 8-)
There's a sort of articulated plastic sleeve thing under the seat to protect the speaker wires when the seat is moved that only bends one way.It's fixed to both seat and metal box.This can also be reversed with a bit of patience,fiddly but possible ;)
TBH the plastic sleeve thingy seems a bit dramatic for the job it has to do,you could just as well remove it altogether because reversing the articulation is a bit of a pig!!
I'm 6'3" and have legroom to spare after doing this job :)

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by IDCHAPPY » September 24th, 2011, 7:48 am

I wish i'd have given this a bash now, next time JB ;)

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by johnbud » September 24th, 2011, 8:29 am

dont worry bud, i have kept you a few credits. its a shame you couldnt have stayed a bit longer. you missed the egret punching me across the room :lol: just as we were fitting a new earth, a mate who does appliance testing showed up. he gave us a quick speech on it being category c, due to the metal body. we fitted a board and bingo it fired up :thumbup: job done so just to be sure we swapped out the game. fired it up again and lost the sinc, switched it off and put the previous game back, no joy. switched it on and off a few times still no sinc. switched it off and had a smoke. right lets try 1 last time, i reached under the body to switch it on and bingo, the **** kicked me across the room. i got a big shock, but not as big as grobda :lol: :lol: the look on his face was excellent. i was i had a camera :lol:

grobda has now finished id1 apart from the expert in hard. the thing is though his rx job has only racked up about 80k. i will give it hammering over the weekend and attempt to complete the courses. im now going to have a shower, big major thanks to idchappy. the poor guy spent all day fixing my plumbing and central heating.

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by IDCHAPPY » September 24th, 2011, 8:33 am

johnbud wrote:dont worry bud, i have kept you a few credits. its a shame you couldnt have stayed a bit longer. you missed the egret punching me across the room :lol: just as we were fitting a new earth, a mate who does appliance testing showed up. he gave us a quick speech on it being category c, due to the metal body. we fitted a board and bingo it fired up :thumbup: job done so just to be sure we swapped out the game. fired it up again and lost the sinc, switched it off and put the previous game back, no joy. switched it on and off a few times still no sinc. switched it off and had a smoke. right lets try 1 last time, i reached under the body to switch it on and bingo, the **** kicked me across the room. i got a big shock, but not as big as grobda :lol: :lol: the look on his face was excellent. i was i had a camera :lol:

grobda has now finished id1 apart from the expert in hard. the thing is though his rx job has only racked up about 80k. i will give it hammering over the weekend and attempt to complete the courses. im now going to have a shower, big major thanks to idchappy. the poor guy spent all day fixing my plumbing and central heating.
:crazy:, watch yourself man, there's only 1 JB ;) . Forgot to pickup the pad hacks aswell :palm: , need to look at your heating agian though, shouldn't take that long to heat up :think: . Enjoy the shower though :mrgreen:

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by grobda » September 24th, 2011, 11:25 am

annoyed at not fixing the egret, bloody things possesesd. needs disembowelling

fun beating expert on ID though, easier than the hard course imo. fair workout for the arms with all those corners. :lol: worrying thing is im starting to want a driving cab :crazy:
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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by johnbud » September 25th, 2011, 8:51 am

i had a blast yesterday afternoon/night. i have now beaten all cousrses, or so i thought. i beat the expert in expert, then up pops a wee cartoon with tak. it seems i now need to beat a **** bingo caller :lol: i mean were did he get that lovely blue blazer :wtf: i think im down to 2 shots before i need to change cards. i still havent managed to pick up more :cry: this tak guy can shift though, im going to need more power to beat this 1. there better be some kind of major fanfare when i bust this guys butt. i reckon maybe 3 weeks so all the troops can try again on this then its id2 here we come.

cheers.

john bud

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by MartinW » September 25th, 2011, 11:17 am

ID3 cards any good to you? If so, MP me an address and ill POP a few in the post...

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by johnbud » September 25th, 2011, 4:18 pm

you sir are a star. i got a bunch from spectre, but i think im looking at the wrong places for cards. i have been quoted, now catch this £1 a card with about £14 delivery :wtf: im happy to buy them but i think that price is in excess of rip-off. right here we go on the steering.

A] the pots and board are the same.
B] the gearing cogs are different ratio

the answer i think is a variation on the gears.

my thinking is, somewhere between the 270 and 360 gears, roughly 315. how many corners do you really hit max turn, not many. that would mean, a slightly bigger turn on or2, and a lightly less turn on id. im pretty sure there will be gear cogs available from some where, albeit possibly a complete cast needing the appropriate holes cut. im sure this can be done :thumbup: its possibly going to take time but hey, you have to wait for all the best things.

cheers.

john bud

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Re: The Initial D thread

Post by johnbud » September 26th, 2011, 8:56 am

went back out yesterday,

id 1 is now completed, i took on tak on shined his botty. then bunta showed up and disappeared into the distance. i think he was in a subaru it was a grey car anyway, i was shifting but although i finished with plenty of time left. i think bunta had at least 400m on me. i now have all 4 courses printed on my card 8-) i will now go back to time trials and max out my upgrades. im hoping the mrs completes it in the next couple of weeks, that way she wont take the nip when i swap games.

a wee question, can you take your car with you onto id2 ??? or do you need to get a new car and start from scratch. i believe id2 is the better game but, i havent tried it yet. at this rate i will be on id6 in 18months to 2 years :lol: unless of course i pick up another cab for the mrs ;)

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