Espgaluda II exA label

LarsVegas wrote: ↑

Yesterday, 10:10 pm

Last solution cap-kit?

Your last solution is to rejuvenate the tube. I did it with a Blast tube and got good results out of it.

Price hasn't really changed. I think your valuation is more or less on the nose.

Don't touch the jumper when the cab is turned on.

Also, can you take a picture of the sticker on the back of the tube? It will have the name of the manufacturer and the tube number.

Is there a narrow / wide jumper on this chassis?

I'm not sure what exactly do you need? You've already figured it out. You just need to connect +5V and GND from the connector you have marked to CN10 (provided you have that IO, do you?) RE pinout you have, here's a pic for confirmation: re_dc_out.jpg If you have a regular Type 3 IO (837-14572), the...

Arcade chassis that works with Trinitrons? That's neat.

That looks OK (provided red is connected to the shell of the cab).

Is DC ground separated from Earth? I know these are sometimes connected together, but personally I never do it. Check the PSU for that.

Was a UK plug installed on it?

That's what I would look at.

You actually have the correct connectors in your harness, they just have too many positions. One has seven positions, the other five. You need a 3-position connector. I have cut these connectors down to the correct length a few times when in a pinch. The pins can be pulled out when you press on the ...

It's set to 2:1. Irrevelant for now, but something you will want to change down the line. These are meant to run on 100VAC.

What kind of power lead do you have on it?

Wait a minute, didn't this have an internal step down though? It had been converted to '220V'.

nem wrote: ↑

April 6th, 2021, 6:21 pm

PrincessPrinPrin wrote: ↑

April 6th, 2021, 6:14 pm

26.

It's a 25" cab though? What function does SW331 have on the neck board?

I have quite a few 25s and 26s. The ferrite core for horizontal width points to a 26, but I've never seen this on a 26 before:


Also, the neck board is different too.

PrincessPrinPrin wrote: ↑

April 6th, 2021, 6:14 pm

Wurstkopp wrote: ↑

April 6th, 2021, 5:53 pm

seems to be a Nanao MS8-25.

26.

It's a 25" cab though? What function does SW331 have on the neck board?

That's understandable. But everything is fixable. The monitor could have developed a cracked solder joint in transit, so that's something you'll possibly have to send off. Motherboard, could be down to just the cart making poor contact. As for controls, maybe the control panel was replaced and the c...

Aww, don't give up yet.

Reseating the cart could possibly fix your sound issues. The cart slots can be temperamental.

Up and down is easily fixed with just swapping two connectors that plug in to the microswitches on the joystick.

As for the monitor, I'll leave that to grant.

ChrisBEANS wrote: ↑

April 6th, 2021, 4:04 pm

Only place I can imagine the dangling wire may go is onto 'CN301', that you can see in the bottom picture??

That's the one.

The green earth wire should touch the metal shell. Place it under a screw if you can't see an obvious place for it.

It's also irrelevant for the monitor working or not.

That will go to the neck board. There's going to be an empty header pin for it. Should be on the bottom, just out of view in the pic you have uploaded.

Out of interest, I don't think I've seen this neck board before. What does the A-B switch (SW331) do?

RE2 is definitely multivoltage 100-240VAC. I expect it's the same for RE1 as well. Take off the top cover, it will be written on the side of the PSU.

The power connector is JST VH if you want to cobble your own cable.

https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=262