AMS wrote: ↑

July 5th, 2020, 2:55 pm

Jan I have one as well (pink type) will contact you on PM

Why PM?

grantspain wrote: ↑

June 22nd, 2020, 8:39 am

they are marked zd, make sure 10uf 250v cap is replaced
i am sure you are ok with a soldering iron

Thanks a lot Grant, found them now, ZD301/ZD311/ZD321. Will replace those and the cap when I'm over there again and post back here.

why would a neck board burn out? you need to get this to someone who knows how to fix it Trust me, I know my way around a soldering iron, not sure what happened to the neckboard. But it wasn't the cleanest looking one as can be seen in the pictures. I'd like to try to replace the diodes on the orig...

Okay, so we've just replaced the neckboard with another one. It seemed to be slightly better, however the damn thing burned out after a few minutes. Put back the original neckboard which still works, though of course with the same issue. grantspain which diodes do we need to replace exactly for the ...

Thanks for the reply Who bought it?

levellevelup wrote: ↑

June 16th, 2020, 2:05 pm

Well you dont mind to sell it, do you?

Sadly no, but I've asked my buddy @PascalP up here to reply, so he can help you out

It's not the exact same panel he's selling though, but I'm sure he can send you some pics

Yes it's standard 30mm. I have a McCthulhu in there and just stuck it to the bottom of the CP indeed.

He does make them

We also still need to think it a non invasive way to interrupt the 100vAc to the monitor. The easiest way for the end user would probably to have an inline 15 pin AMP UP pass though. Basically a 15 pin female and a 15 pin male connector with RGBS/GND and demag wires connected straight through. You ...

Wiring 4 cables yourself would be best, that way everybody can wire it to their own liking. Be it a jamma passthrough adapter, straight, to the PSU or whatever.

You're welcome, hope you can get it to work again

Clicky.

Looks like a 14.7456 mhz crystal to me.

I always thought the "T" stood for Taito, as it was in all the E2 cabs. It's possible someone swapped the chassis in that Tecmo NAC. Same- all my E2s have come with the "T" chassis. Will this auto switcher work for regular jamma games too? Gradius IV and the model stuff? Yes, we are making it compl...

@grantspain he can't keep the new neckboard, if the new one works fine I will replace the zener diode on the old one and see if that works. So it's a 15v one, how many watts should it be? Should this one work? https://www.reichelt.nl/zener-diode-5-0w-15v-zd-5w-15v-p145340.html?&trstct=vrt_pdn&nbc=1...

@grantspain he can't keep the new neckboard, if the new one works fine I will replace the zener diode on the old one and see if that works. So it's a 15v one, how many watts should it be? Should this one work?

https://www.reichelt.nl/zener-diode-5-0 ... _pdn&nbc=1

I didn’t know they were so rare, I bought one last year from a guy in France who sells recapped MS9 chassis, and I’m using it in my Egret 2. Will still be interested by your solution though. I'm not so sure either now after googling a bit earlier, it looks like [ brad808 has three auto switching ch...

That looks pretty good actually! What does it look like irl now?

So if I understand correctly the red and green were already turned down, just the blue wasn't?

Will there be a manual switch as well? I'm not using a PC but a Raspberry Pi. There is a manual switch already, yes. It will first shutdown the monitor and then do the plugging. BTW we already test reading the sync signal from Jamma and we seem to get it right. So it will be compatible with anythin...

Will there be a manual switch as well? I'm not using a PC but a Raspberry Pi.