Hi! :) I tried the 2 proposed method but there was nothing that did not function black screen no switching the nothingness :ryu: . On the other side you have to remove the battery CR2032 to reinitialize the game to restore the parameters otherwise it does not work :problem: :wtf: . What type of dis...

That'll be good. I did try on the weekend with the jumpers shown in this thread but no joy. Hopefully I'll get some more time at the weekend to take apart the PCB and test properly. It'll be good get some documentation on this if it can be done. Did you try the jumpers next to the crystal labeled "...

If I ever manage to get this working, I'll post back here so other Model 3 owners can benefit from it.

I guess I'll have to do that myself at some point. Not sure when. My guess is that, if you're correct in thinking that there's another jumper that needs to be switched, it's probably on the video board - because I've already tried almost all of the jumpers on the CPU board. Although, I just noticed ...

There might be other jumpers to change. I remember making VF3 work on some generic VGA monitor way back then. 10+ years ago. I don't really remember exactly what I did. Check the video board for more jumpers. Just make sure you document their original positions before changing. I tried many of the ...

Update: so, I switched the jumpers, and I can't get it to work so far. My monitor gives me an "out of range" error or something like that. It also lists the sync as: "18.7kHz horizontal, 44.1Hz vertical", which makes no sense. With the jumpers in their default positions it lists it as something like...

If you look around the corner of the cpu board there's 24Mhz and 31Mhz crystals near each other with blue jumpers near them. Change all to the other side. Marked on the red square. Cool, thanks for the info! I'll try this out soon. Apparently this doesn't even require disassembling the boards, so i...

I've posted in this thread before, but that was a long time ago so I'll post what I have now. MVS: MV-1F Metal Slug Blazing Star King of Fighters 94 King of Fighters 98 Fatal Fury 2 Samurai Shodown II ST-V: Die Hard Arcade Model 3 Step 1.0: Virtua Fighter 3 I also have a Sanwa JVS PSU for the Model 3.

There's a pair of jumpers on the MODEL3 board which swaps around the clock source for the video chipset. You can toggle between 24Khz and 31Khz by changing them. It also can do SoG (Sync on Green) by toggling a jumper on the third (video) board. So does that actually change the output resolution? I...

It may be due to the fact Model 3 system has an hybrid resolution varying a bit. I didn't know about that, but I thought Model 3 cabs don't support 31kHz. I've tested the scan rate and it seems to stay at 24kHz, though I guess it's possible that it changes in another part of the game. I use an Asus...

Sega Model 3 system resolution is indeed 496 x 384 (one or two plane 24 kHz), so you need a multisync monitor that supports 24 kHz frequency. You can use a CGA/EGA to VGA converter to output in 640 x 480 resolution, but I don't recommend Gonbes GBS scalers as they are unstable with hybrid frequenci...

So, I have a Model 3 system (Virtua Fighter 3) which I've had for years. It's fully working, and I'm able to play it on a VGA monitor using a GBS 8220. However, a goal of mine from the beginning was to be able to display the Model 3's output natively on a CRT, without scaling. My intention was to ge...

Because there's no metal there, only plastic. I can't very well solder to plastic, can I? I can take pictures if necessary. The PSU I bought came with these little metal pins for you to stick inside the AC connector (which was just a piece of plastic), thus allowing me (with a little hot glue) to bu...

Well, the problem is that there's nothing to solder to. In the place where the connector attaches to the board, there's just an empty hole there, where there's a contact in every other hole. So there's nothing to attach a wire to. I think I might temporarily just shove a wire inside there and tape i...

Okay, so I figured out why the image was not showing up. It turns out there was a setting I needed to change on the scaler. Now I have audio and video, and the board seems to be working fine! The picture is a little fuzzy for some reason, but I can live with that. Now I've run into another problem. ...

So, I still don't have this working, but I was looking at the video board, and I noticed there's a jumper marked "JP2". I searched all over the board, but this is the only jumper I was able to find on the video board. As I mentioned before, I was told that there is a jumper on the video board that a...

julius blaze wrote:Yeah you will have to find the dipswitches somewhere for VF3, I never found them and the manual is absolutely useless...lemme ask my buddy who reads Japanese just in case.

Thanks, I'd really appreciate it.

No cabinets. I play everything via a supergun. I play the JAMMA games on a Sony PVM - so there's a direct RGB connection, no conversion necessary. I'm still working on Virtua Fighter 3. MVS: MV-1F 1-slot motherboard Metal Slug Blazing Star King of Fighters 94 ST-V: Die Hard Arcade Model 3: Virtua Fi...

I can take pictures, if that would help. What would you like to see pictures of? I seriously doubt that the scaler is the problem. As I said, it was working when I first got the board, and it continues to work with other devices. This is the thread I was referring to: http://www.assemblergames.com/f...

It's not in a cab. I'm using a CGA/EGA to VGA scaler on a computer monitor. I don't have the controls wired yet. As I said, the video was working at one point. The image was normal, except that it was slightly fuzzy and very bright, and it got brighter over time. I don't think it's an issue with the...