Arcade Otaku - アーケード オタク

Hey man, how are you doing? There never was an OutRun2 plexi for the initial D lightbox so if you wanted one you'd have to make something yourself. Muddymusic could probably do some art to apply to the plexi once you'd removed the artwork already on it. That would be your best bet as although he can...

This has been on hold for a while, but looks like it might be up for grabs again

Difficult to say, most likely a video board issue but step 1.5 video boards are more reliable than step 2 boards in my experience. Could also be the ROM board so worth trying a different game on the stack if you can. Always worth checking voltages particularly if you have an original Model 3 PSU whi...

More pics of the OutRun2 lightbox..

I don't have a cab but self tapping screws are often Truss Head..

OutRun2 lightbox still available.

I think at my last count it was four or five different versions of these bezels. You'll probably have a POD-1022 in there if it's a Sanwa 29e31s. If you're going to replace with a Nanao MS2932 you ideally want a bezel from an F355 twin. It's stated as TTR-1067X in the manual. I might still have one ...

initial D topper sold, but I do have a Japanese style OutRun2 topper going spare if there's any interest.. https://live.staticflickr.com/7860/47484792672_854cf495f3_c.jpg It's in great shape so would be looking for around the £185 mark or £170 with a slightly scuffed plexi. SP version also available...

In need of some funds, so a few spare Sega driver parts must go - I will add more as I decide which parts to..ermm.. part with :think: OutRun2 Japanese style single topper/lightbox unit: £185 This style lightbox was originally used on Japanese OutRun2/SP cabs, but will fit pretty much any Sega sitdo...

As it's a Super GT branded cab you'll be looking for artwork to fit a US cab - most cabs around the world will be Japanese or Export versions which will have a metal frame/standard plastic sides, rather than the wooden cabinet/bigger plastics sides. Your cab will have this style side panels I guess....

Any news on this..?

If you're handy with a multimeter you might want to check that the reader is getting power. The small rectangular shaped power supply shown in the bottom-left of your internal photo is the card reader PSU - check that it's getting 100VAC on the pink and sky blue wires and that it's outputting +12VDC...

Has it been disabled in the service menu? Go into TEST and then GAME ASSIGNMENTS to check the card reader is enabled.

If it is do you hear the motor initialise (makes a noise) just after the game has booted - you should hear it and also get the drive board test.

Beautiful cab, Japanese versions of these cabs truly are the best 8-) So unusual to see one with the mega rare network pop still mounted and in good condition! I've just managed to find one this week for my cab (after probably six years of searching) so I know how hard they are to find! Looks like i...

Shame the French guy has stopped doing the custom remote boards, I reckon he could sell another dozen at least, will be pretty hard to find a replacement original

Do you ever receive the prompt to insert a cleaning card? I had issues with a reader but after using a cleaning card I had no issues.

Sorry for the delay. Well, I'm not sure if you might have another problem as the chassis and remote pcb numbers are consistent, so..

38 goes to 38
39 goes to 39
Etc..

I confirmed this with a continuity test.

I would have thought the pin numbers would have been consistent between the two PCBs but I can check tomorrow for you if you like.

Good info, thanks! For everyone without a Daytona 2 (like me :(), do you have a picture of the 4ch amp? It's the same as the standard 2ch amp found in initialD1/2/3, OR2, F355 etc., but fully populated.. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4677/39528581025_d13ff9dbbc_c.jpg Th 2ch amp looks much the same...