Arcade Otaku - アーケード オタク

So can it be used in a regular Blast without modification?

I recapped the PSU with the 220v sticker on it and plugged it into the cab. Putting out the correct 120v to the monitor and 5v for the PCB. Unfortunately the 5v pot has a broken center leg. Does anyone have a part number for it (maybe thru Mouser)?

I'm not gonna lie, I understood very little of that. Can someone point me to a specific component to test?

My first tube that went also had the glass crack in the neck. What is the SMD cap? Plus, my chassis was recapped.

This is actually the 2nd tube that has done this. My replacement tube for my Blast City 2931 recently got a heater short. All I did was power up the cabinet and I heard loud crackling and I shut it down. I thought it might be a dirty anode cup that was arcing because this was an issue with the monit...

Looking at another post on the forums, its apparently for Limbergh use. Does anyone know if this PSU is limited to that or should it also power JAMMA as well? I would still think my monitor would power on, but I get nothing.

I found a "grungy" data label and sure enough it said input 100v. I'll plug it in and check voltages. It's still going to need a good clean and re-cap plus new cooling fan. Thanks for the help....now if only I can figure out what's the other PSU. Obviously for a Blast, but what application and can i...

Here is a picture of the other PSU I have.

So despite a big red sticker that says 220v on the back side, you are saying internally I am all set to use as is? Can you link in a picture of a 220v PSU for comparison?

The 220V PSUs should have external stepdowns. You won't do any damage if you try to plug a 220V PSU to a 120V outlet. It will either work, or it won't. It should work though. No idea what that PSU in the pic is. Can you take a shot of the front? The back is where fan is. Are you saying the 220 can ...

First question: I finally received a power supply (3 months) from Yanton and it has a big red 220V sticker on it. I don't recall the ad mentioning it being 220V or in the picture. The ad disappeared so I can't verify, but I'm fairly positive I would have noticed. Regardless, I'm upset that I waited ...

If you have never taken apart your PSU, I'd recommend doing so. The amount of dust will both amaze and disgust you. I recapped mine and changed the fan while in there. Super easy job to do.

I hope I don't catch any crap resurrecting this thread, but I'm not finding the answers I need. So I got my Darksoft kit and it's installed on a revision 7 board with a G PAL. I'm using a 4GB card with Avalaunch files. Here are the problems I am having: 1. The Avalaunch files didn't have the D&D gam...

Probably addressed before, but could not find...but my MS9 looks like it has some sort of film on the tube screen. It looks all scuffed up and nasty. When the monitor is on, I can't see the scuffs and the picture is great. So what's the purpose and is it needed? If not, how can I remove it?

Do both of these monitors use the same type of tube? My 2930 tube is dead, but might have access to a MS9 tube. I could always swap the yoke over if the MS9 yoke does not have the same resistance.

So let me say first that I have advertised for a suicided cart for this the past 2 weeks on the KLOV and Neo forums...with no hits. So I am considering using my X-Men: Children of the Atom Asia B-board. It's a revision 7 with PAL F chip. It's an original, working board on a fresh battery and I reall...

Awesome...thanks!

UPDATE: Just completed the mod and works as advertised. I'm never going back to stock PSU!

So I already have a thread going for some help getting a power supply to work and I just received 2 more power supplies today that blow fuses instantly. Not to mention I had a Astro a few years back that kept blowing fuses. In fact I traded it for a gutted, ugly Defender cab out of anger. So here I ...

I tried it again with a PCB hooked up, but still the same results. Just fluctuating and I can hear clicking through the speakers. Obviously the PCB is not getting enough voltage consistently to boot properly. I also tested the adjustment pot and it seems to work. I checked for resistance at the min ...

I did not. I'm testing at the JAMMA connector. Do these PSUs act funny without a load? I've tested HAPP PSUs this way before and never had the fluctuating.