Arcade Otaku - アーケード オタク

thegreathopper wrote: ↑

June 19th, 2019, 6:17 pm

The are not soldered, they are spot welded.

The only way off is grinding, or destroying the panel.

Ok

Are both holes of those mounting plates threaded or do you use nuts? Do you use a specific tool to desolder them if needed to be replaced ?

I wonder if the "S" type base plate have standard measures on every CP and if it's possible to desolder it? The base plate present on that 3D CP does have four treaded holes. I'd like to solder a base plate on the raw CP that I built but sanwa/seimitsu dont sell any threaded ones. How others CPs pla...

Ok, so I added a third wire for the amp, and let two others for the jamma. Thanks!!

Ok, thanks!!

No matter which side to L/N? Is it ok like this?
p.s. I also heard about putting some led strips in the neon tube, does the wiring would stay the same?

I see, so if I replace my actual neon by a LED tube, I should be able to remove the whole red wire, the ballast and the starter (pls see the shema)?
If I can keep the black wire only, should I hook it to some other points like 1, 3 or 4? Maybe another one should also goes to ACL?

Since I don't want to ''add another fork connector over another under the screw terminal on my switcher / PSU'', I'd like to use one of the two 12v wires already coming from the PSU to hook to the amp.. Like this, only one 12v wire will be present on the jamma edge connector (pls see the following s...

Flinnster wrote: ↑

June 9th, 2019, 2:28 am

Or just fit an LED tube instead, and ditch the ballast and starter stuff..

That can be a good idea. So the LED tube would only requiers two harness?

Why jamma loom needs two +12V / two -5V / four +5V? I heard about a question of balance, that's why it should be both numbers of voltage on each side of the loom, but is that true? I'm now modifying my wiring and I need a +12v for my amp., maybe can I take one off from the jamma loom and give it to ...

Yeah it looks like a capacitor. Can I replace it with any other kind of caps having the same value?

By changing the wires of the neon, I discovered that small stuff. It should give energy to the starter. Both legs was rolled up to the naked wires but I didn't succeed to desolder the wounded part, so I had to cut it. Now the legs are shorter but still efficients since both joins the solder points, ...

I asked to the manufacture, so they are able to do it, it's a common thing to do. Thanks anyway

Ok, thanks

I heard about CPs where printed with serigraphic technology. Also, I heard about Offset. Does both have something in common? I'd like to print an overlay from a hi-rez .pdf file and there are some points which would be important: - good quality of adhesive (resistant to time and sweating/humidity) -...

I did some tests and as princess said, the hi-low converter don't needs any caps. My actual configuration works fine now with any conventional pcb (I tryed sonic wings and some mvs) and I can set the volume across the cabs main pot (pls see the final actual shema) - CPS2: it works fine, I just have ...

About ''L'': Princess told me not to use it since no more speaker there. With the converter I should hook that negative audio to any gnd on the jamma loom. Are you sure there will be any risk to blow the amp if I follow Princess advises? About the cap: this converter is less complex than a converter...

I'd like to install some external speakers to my pony and for that I bought an amp and built a hi-low converter. I've had many advises about how to proceed: Princess and Nem gave me most of the directives but they have divergent opinions on some points: - should I hook ''speaker GND'' to any GND on ...

Thanks!

Until now I used one GND for the stick and another one dedicated to the buttons. But since I need a free GND on my jamma loom I'm thinking about to use one GND for both pushes and stick. Is it possible to do it like this shema?
Thanks