Sorry I've done zero arcading due to newborn baby in da house! Hope to get back on this, but yeah.. nuffin' happening at the moment!
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Yeah totally - We weren't saying it was a 'hobbyist' conversion, but very likely the pcb stock was re-used internally for newer game titles, hence the rom labels looking original too. As said, you'd need to remove the number label on other pcbs to know for sure, which nobody will volunteer, given it...
I'd be surprised if you where getting 120v but it could be ,I vaguely remember taking reading from all of my various different transformers years ago and none ran that high ,all of them came in closer to the 110 mark than anything which really is within tolerance ,hell even you measured everyones 2...
I still have a bunch of 220-240v -> 100-120v maplin style stepdowns. I think previous owners of my cabs used them, but I'm still fearful of blindly pumping 120v into 100v rated Japanese spec PSU's, sound amps and monitors. Some posts have stated 120v is well within 'tolerance' levels for a 29" Japan...
- July 13th, 2019, 1:24 pm
- Forum: Arcade Games & Artwork
- Topic: You've Got Grail! The Valuation Thread
- Replies: 9634
- Views: 899498
Usually it is only needed to have 2x 5V & 2x GND cables. These are the main 'power' lines that most game PCBs use so it can help to make sure they have more wires or thicker wire that the other connections on your JAMMA loom. It is mainly for older, larger and more power-hungry game PCBs.. and bootl...
- June 9th, 2019, 1:57 am
- Forum: Cabinet Q&A
- Topic: 2 Astro cabs, 1 pcb - how to make it work?
- Replies: 45
- Views: 7513
my-loom-works.jpg Ok, The player 1 'master' cab has the small 'passthru' jamma fingerboard plugged into the harness connector... so it has all the normal jamma edge connections for the main cab, and the game PCB can be plugged into the jamma edge on this connector as normal. From the passthru finge...