Arcade Otaku - アーケード オタク

The yoke could very well be from a different chassis.

The only way you can be reasonably assured it will work is to measure the inductance on the horizontal and vertical coils.

copados33 wrote: ↑

February 11th, 2019, 1:50 pm

I didn't use solid silicone but a liquid one that I had lying around that needs some time to dry.

yeah a non-neutral cure silicone could be a problem

Cap installed backwards, wrong spec caps since you're using a kit, bad solder joint, solder bridge, etc.

There's quite a lot that could've went wrong, your best bet is going to be to go back over your work carefully and verify capacitor location, values, and polarity.

Rafaelsic wrote:I know the feeling. I was sure that it was going to be a hard to find wiring problem the first time, and was quite surprised to find out it was a 30 fix.

what?

q701 might be bad but I'm not sure. - on source, + on gate and move it to drain briefly shows a reading but then it goes out of range almost immediately. I don't have a variable PSU so I can't apply a higher voltage than what can be supplied by my DMM.

q701 is something to do with hv regulation and controls the hv protection circuit i believe i had that on one chassis once cause me a similar fault the fact you have solid psu voltages and look to have an ok deflection circuit points towards the issue being hv regulation-but these are complex chass...

grantspain wrote:have you check q701 and u701

I'll pull q701 when I get home tonight and check it.

what am I looking for on u701?

the tube is fine, I have another 2931 that works just fine on it.

the chassis goes into shutdown on my test bench not connected to the tube.

As the title states, I have an MS2931 going into shutdown immediately after power up. No neck glow and no HV. Potting compound on H.Drive coil had leaked, but I removed the HOT, coil, and FBT and cleaned that up. With FBT and F701 removed, and HOT/coil installed, I've wired a lamp holder to the meta...

Wurstkopp wrote:¥ means Yen.

"¥ is a currency sign used by the Chinese yuan (CNY) and the Japanese yen (JPY) currencies. This monetary symbol resembles a Latin letter Y with a double stroke."

source: wikipedia

mufunyo wrote:1580 yen? That seems awfully cheap.

I would assume it's Yuan, which puts it around 240USD.

Thank you both, i managed to get it sorted. The pots i needed were definitely on there, although still practically impossible to get to. I managed to adjust the hold, and then also the trapizoid needed adjusting too. What do people usually do for stuff like this? Is it normal to take the monitor ou...

I can take a look when I get home, later, but I don't believe there are freq/hold adjustments on the 2930.

Looks like a Nanao MS-2930, judging by the remote board in your second picture and the layout of items in the 1st pic (orange Low Ripple Current capacitor, vertically mounted daughterboard, geom adjustments along the side). There should be a sticker on the top of the monitor frame with the model num...

sorry to threadjack, but has anyone modded a cave board to take a coin cell battery instead of the NiMH/NiCD, similar to what's done with MVS?

I've searched but have only seen threads about completely removing batteries and not adding a battery holder.

Give these guys a call

http://www.eastcoastamusements.com/

I haven't personally used them, but they were recommended to me in the past for a broken MS2930, and I've read reviews of Quan's, their monitor tech, work on other sites and they sound good. $85 + parts and shipping.

Okay, hate to necro my post here but I wanted to write back and say that I fixed the problem. I moved this, and some other cabs, into my basement a couple of months ago and haven't had a lot of time to spend either playing or troubleshooting. If others are having problems with wiggle or what looks l...

There's only the one connecting the frame and the chassis, and I've removed it. Problem seems the same hm.

I'm notcing when there's bright colors or flashing, the screen expands, and when it's dark, it shrinks, as well. This was present before I recapped the SMPS, although it was a lot worse.

NVS-4000

I checked the voltage regulator U951. Vi was steady around 15V, Vo was around 12V.

you might be right. the earth that connects the chassis to the plastic and metal trays was about halfway off the tap. I pushed it the rest of the way down and the problem isn't as pronounced. the problem is still there, but it's about a 1-2 pixel expansion/contraction, while before it was greater. t...