I finished up my first cap kit last night and now I don't get a picture. I just purchased the Blast City and the monitor worked but was very noisy,dim and just looked terrible. When I flip the power switch you can hear the initial "boosh" of the monitor turning on and the screen gets static then there is a faint 'click'. I never see any picture and there is no neck glow. Any ideas?
I made a video of what its doing,you can hear the 'click' a few seconds after I turn it on.
MS2931 no picture after cap replacement
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- Joined: May 3rd, 2017, 7:07 am
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Re: MS2931 no picture after cap replacement
Ok so I've taken pictures of the what I see are the problems,mostly removed pads. I've been reading all day about how to jumper a wire to another spot but I'm not sure where. Can I just solder it to another capacitor in the chain?
For this one do I do a jumper from the unpadded c233+ to the J209 in the chain?
Do I go from C960+ to C961+?
I have no idea for this one (C621+)
??
For this one do I do a jumper from the unpadded c233+ to the J209 in the chain?
Do I go from C960+ to C961+?
I have no idea for this one (C621+)
??
- grantspain
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Re: MS2931 no picture after cap replacement
i have nothing to say that is positive
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Re: MS2931 no picture after cap replacement
If bodine1231 doesn't mind, I would love to hear whatever it is Grant. It is always good to read your posts and try to learn something.grantspain wrote:i have nothing to say that is positive
- grantspain
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Re: MS2931 no picture after cap replacement
the tracks on ms2931 are extremely delicate, you can see care has not been taken whilst removing the old caps
looks to have been removed either by levering out the circuit board or by desolder tool holding down onto iron whilst activated
problem is every single cap that has been changed will now require continuity testing of the traces-the repair work on this could be painstaking
looks to have been removed either by levering out the circuit board or by desolder tool holding down onto iron whilst activated
problem is every single cap that has been changed will now require continuity testing of the traces-the repair work on this could be painstaking
- trev1976
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Re: MS2931 no picture after cap replacement
The amount of chassis I've seen get destroyed on this site
Just send them to the experts, it not even expensive compared to most things in this hobby.
Just send them to the experts, it not even expensive compared to most things in this hobby.
Check out my "1cc" YouTube Channel
YouTube
YouTube
- nem
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Re: MS2931 no picture after cap replacement
I'm sorry but those solder blobs look terrible. You can spot every single leg that you have soldered to.
You will have lifted pads on these chassis even if you're super careful. The truth is some are already lifted before you even start. There's no way to undo that. In the event of a lifted pad, I usually scrape a bit of solder mask from a nearby trace, add some solder to it, cut the leg to length, then press the leg on top of it and then solder it in place. Unless the traces are really short or thin in which case you might need to jump a point.
You will have lifted pads on these chassis even if you're super careful. The truth is some are already lifted before you even start. There's no way to undo that. In the event of a lifted pad, I usually scrape a bit of solder mask from a nearby trace, add some solder to it, cut the leg to length, then press the leg on top of it and then solder it in place. Unless the traces are really short or thin in which case you might need to jump a point.