My Egret II Doesn't Like DonPachi (Or Vice Versa)

[Aypok]

I got my Egret II last night and all seems dandy. I stuck in Mr Driller G and it worked fine. Had a good few runs, then decided to try my DonPachi board. But that didn't work so well:



That looks like the board is broken - but I took it out, tried it through my supergun and it works without problems. Back in the cab, I get what's in that video. I pulled out the board and re-inserted Mr Driller G - but that game still works fine. The JAMMA connector on the board was dirty, so I cleaned it up - sadly that made no difference (although it's not yet perfectly clean, it's a lot better than it was). Does it even look like that could be the problem?

So: the cab works fine with a different board, but DonPachi works through my supergun. Which is at fault? Better yet: anyone know how to fix it? Google doesn't seem to have links to anything about it. I can't wait to play that game again...

Whilst I'm asking questions: is the monitor only supposed to rotate anti-clockwise? The diagram in the Egret II manual suggests so and that's the only way it'd rotate, but DonPachi seems to need the display rotating right... Is that not possible? I figured the game might have some sort of vertical-flip option, but the cab's test switch doesn't appear to do anything on this game (works fine for Mr Driller G, though).

PS: Wasn't sure if this should live in the games forum or the cabs forum, so stuck it here. Apologies if it should be in the game forum.

[cools]

Hold down the test button for a bit, that should get you in.

It only rotates one way.

Not sure on the monitor problem though.

[hakoniwa]

Did you check the 5V and your jamma is well connected (pin to pin)?

[emphatic]

This does sound like a 5V issue. If you're EGRET II doesn't have the monitor in the "correct" position for DoDonpachi, you'll need to flip the Yoke cables on the chassis board. I see great adventure in your future. Not that hard to do, but it's a bit stressful if you don't know what to do. Thing is, you'll need to do it anyway if you plan on buying more CAVE games, as they don't have screen flip and all appear the same way.

I've done this once, I'll see if I can dig up some info for you unless someone here can help/get you sorted.

[Aypok]

Is there a v hold pot on the e2 remote board?

Forgive my ignorance, but is that the board located just under the monitor? I got in as close as I could, illuminating it with a torch, but the writing on those pots is too small for me to read. :/ It doesn't appear in either of the manuals I have, which is odd. There are some monitor controls on the board behind the coin door; the maintenance manual says there are vertical size and vertical position pots, but I'm assuming those aren't what you meant.

Did you check the 5V and your jamma is well connected (pin to pin)?

Not yet, no. Embarrassingly, I don't actually own a multimeter... I really should get one.

you'll need to flip the Yoke cables on the chassis board. I see great adventure in your future. Not that hard to do, but it's a bit stressful if you don't know what to do.

That sounds like messing around behind the monitor, something I'm afraid of doing (not keen on getting electrocuted). :P But if it needs doing, it needs doing. Would performing such a task screw up the display for horizontal games - or could I make it switchable?

Back to the plot: I pulled out the board to check the cab's JAMMA connector and the board's edge connector when I discovered something important... Someone has cut the board's traces on lines 14, 15, 16, R and S. Pin 14 (video ground) will probably explain the screwy display and pins 15 and R will explain why the test and service switches did nothing... No idea what they were trying to do by that, but I'll bridge the gaps with some solder tomorrow. They're quite close to the edge connector, so should be easy enough. Very small cuts, too - probably why I never noticed them before.

Thanks for the help, guys. I'll update you tomorrow as to whether or not I manage to fix it.

[cools]

V Hold is on the chassis.

You dont need to flip the yoke for DonPachi.

Those broken traces sound alarming. Why on earth it'd work on your gun but not a cab is beyond me.

[LoRez]

DonPachi does have invert screen option

[emphatic]

DonPachi does have invert screen option

I did not know this.

[Aypok]

Fixed! It was indeed those cut traces. Although I now see why they were cut.

Bridging the video ground line fixes the display on my cab, but it now gives a weird garbled display through my supergun (not that I care anymore). It looks like the garbage you get when powering on an MVS - but pink instead of the green. And it doesn't change. I assume the previous owner who cut the trace wanted it to run on a supergun not a cab.

Bridging the service line means it is permanently taken high (not entirely sure why that would be the case when I've not pressed the bottom), which is kind of useless... I think I'll remove my bridge on that one. Although DonPachi doesn't appear to have a free-play mode, meaning I need to leave it bridge to get a credit. I guess that explains why it looks like someone soldered a wire to the coin trace... Time to get me some ¥100 coins.

Bridging the test line's cut didn't have any ill effects - that I've noticed. I can now get in to the config and flip the display. I've taken a photograph of it running and posted it in the "member's cabs" thread. :)

Thanks for the help, guys.

[tetsujin]

Time to get me some ¥100 coins.

Just use 20p for now, thats what I use

[Aypok]

Just use 20p for now, thats what I use :)

I tried one of those last night, along with every other British coin which fit (1p, 5p and 20p) - but none of them seemed to work. Maybe it was a bad coin; I'll try a few different ones. Thanks.

[cools]

You'll need to fiddle with the mech to make 20p work, but they're the easiest and require very little work.

[Aypok]

You'll need to fiddle with the mech to make 20p work, but they're the easiest and require very little work.

I prodded it a few times, but didn't really understand the workings of it too much (although I get to see the coin-rejection mechanism in action over and over :P). I'm sure there are guides out there, so will continue searching. Pointers/links will be happily accepted if you have them to hand, too. :)

Thanks again for the advice.