How To: Disassemble a Namco Cyber Lead

[notsonic]

hopefully this will be of use to atleast one person out there.

i just took my cyberlead apart so i could bring it down my stairway. the cyber lead is the widest cabinet i own, and wont fit down the stairs without taking it apart.

first you want to unlock the control panel, remove the two connectors for the controls from the io board, and itll just come out.

next take off the led header/marquee by removing the 3 torx screws. itll hinge forward and come out. it has two connections on it, one is a an svideo looking connector which has a screw on thing around it, and the other is your typical plastic connector for power or whatever.

you can also take off the box from the back of the cabinet that has the video board and ac power stuff on it. just 4 phillips screws, then disconnect the vga, rca, usb, and ac power lines (just two wires and a ground.)

parts:

monitor 007.jpg

next youll want to remove the bezel to get the monitor out. just undo the two nuts that hold it in at the bottom, and pull it out.

bezel removed:

monitor 006.jpg

next grab your torx driver and remove the whole back panel. lots of screws.

panel removed:

monitor 008.jpg

undo any connections and remove the monitor. iirc theres just two, power and the vga cable. there should be two nuts still holding the monitor in at the top, so undo those.

next youll want to clean up and undo some of the wiring from the holders. unplug the speakers and undo the wires from the sides, the vga cable too. undo the bundle of connectors near the middle of the control panel. undo the holders holding all the wires that ran to the back of the cabinet for the video. you dont have to undo any of the holders that are on the gold frame.

once the monitor is out and the wiring undone, you can take out the pcb holder to make it easier to remove the frame/sides. theres one screw on top. after that you can bend it away from the side and get to the other two screws holding it on the bottom.

monitor 009.jpg

(you can see i didnt undo the wiring from the sides yet.)

next pop out all the little plastic circles on the outside of the cabinet, they cover the bolts. i would suggest something small and strong. a paperclip was too flimsy. i used a flat head screwdriver and nicked em all up so...

at the top there are two cross pieces, one that held the monitor and one for the marquee. you can take those out by removing the bolts you just uncovered. just be careful now not to stress the sides.

next remove the sides by undoing all the bolts, and lifting the side up and away. without the sides the rest of the cabinet may be front heavy.

last you want to remove whats left from the base. the frame/control panel. undo the 2 bolts on each side that hold it in place.

monitor 010.jpg

monitor 011.jpg

and that should do it.

(from the pictures you can tell i took the cp out before removing the sides. its better to remove the sides first.)

it was much easier than i thought it would be, definitely easier than the blast city, but not as easy as the neo. (then again i didnt have to take sides/base apart on that.)

just be careful to undo any wires that might be connecting two pieces of the cabinet when you got to take em apart. theres really not much to worry about as the majority is attached to the cp/frame.

[SuperPang]

Neat, this may come in handy some day. Never had to do it but it always looked pretty daunting, the design on this thing is bonkers.

[Flazh]

That is a pretty sadistic design!

[NFG]

I don't suppose anyone's got these pics archived? I'm looking at buying a CyberLead cab and oh, the questions I have.

[arcnl]

Maybe @notsonic still has them? I see he has logged in in february this year so...

[notsonic]

I managed to find the pics and updated the original post.

[NFG]

I managed to find the pics and updated the original post.

Awesome! Thank you for doing that.

@notsonic (and anyone else who needs to know) - I was able to get the side panel plugs out quite easily with shipping tape, just press and pull. Some required a bit more effort, so I used blu-tack instead.