Mounting LS-32s to a Sega HOT-2005 CP

[FrancoB]

I want to see if I can fit some LS-32s to a HOT-2005 panel by making some adaptor plates or something. I thought I had an old HOT-2005 panel at home but its a different panel.

Could some one with one of those panels measure these dimensions for me? Its the normal Naomi etc panel that JLFs bolt directly to.



A) Distance between hole centres.
B) Distance between the mount pads.
C) Mount length.
D) Mount width.

If you could also tell me the distance from the bottom of the CP to the underside of the mount pads that would be much appreciated. Thanks

[cools]

Fit LS-56's instead.

[johnnygnct]

I can get you these measures when I get home but probably someone will be faster than me .

[FrancoB]

Fit LS-56's instead.

No thanks, I <3 my modded LS-32's

I can get you these measures when I get home but probably someone will be faster than me .

That would be a great help if you could. Thanks

[nem]

A) 65mm
B) 40mm
C) 75mm
D) 52mm

Bonus one: 39mm

[FrancoB]

Awesome nem, thanks!

For the bonus one I mean the vertical height, I think it will be about 7mm or so.

[nem]

Oh right

6mm

[FrancoB]

Ah, its my fault. The description I gave could have been interpreted either way, I wasn't clear enough

Thanks again for the dimensions. I've drawn the mounting plates of the HOT-2005 in CAD along with the base of the LS-32, minus its mounting plate. HOT-2005 part is in red, LS-32 part is in blue.



As you can see the LS32 is too big for the mounting plate but to make matters even worse the LS32 mounting holes are located on the edges of the HOT-2005 plate and vice versa

I think I have something sussed for it. Its going to mean making some new mounting plates and modifying the HOT-2005 panel as well as the LS-32s slightly but I think it should work nicely. I'll let you know how I get on.

NNC panel with LS-32s here we come

[cools]

Just build yourself a completely custom Naomi and be done with it.

[FrancoB]

It would probably be easier

[johnnygnct]

Why don't you buy a seimitsu astro panel and apply a NNC overlay on it? Much more simple (less fun I know ).
You can sell the Astro overlay after.

[FrancoB]

That wouldn't be a bad idea if I could get one cheap enough. Do they come with the overlay separate?

A panel from akishop is looking at £75 delivered. I could maybe get £30 for the overlay if I can find a buyer which would make the panel £45.

Is there anywhere else that stocks the panels? I know Gremlin Solutions can get them but I doubt they will be any cheaper.

[johnnygnct]

Do they come with the overlay separate?

I don't think so but maybe you can send an email to akishop. They have a great service! I don't know about Gremlin solutions... I sent them some emails but they never answered so I can't really recommend them...

[FrancoB]

Hmm, I think they are pre applied too

Yeah Gremlin Solutions' communication does suck.

I think I may just go with my original HOT-2005 modification plan. I can get one of those for ~£25 and I won't have to worry about selling an overlay.

[johnnygnct]

Yeah maybe it's best, at least for you (I would ruin a panel trying to make something like this ).

[nem]

Also, I'm not sure how common knowledge this is, but there are two different layouts. Ones that have sticks farther from the buttons (older), and ones that have closer (newer).

So if you grab an old Astro panel with Seimitsu mounts thinking that you can put a NOS Blast City overlay on it, you can think again

[FrancoB]

I've been working on this on and off for the past week or so and I finally got my router back from repair yesterday so I have been able to finish it

Okay, this is the stock HOT-2005 panel with the mounts for JLFs:



I designed some adapter plates for them and I knew some of the bolts would foul on the JLF mount so I milled some recesses for clearance:



This is the top of the stock LS-32. As you can see the mounting plate screws in from on top:



Because the LS-32s over lap the JLF mounting holes it wasn't possible to fix the mounting plates in the same way as it wouldn't be possible to screw the plates to the JLF mounts afterwards. The idea I came up with was to screw the LS-32s body to the mounting plate from the other side which meant I could fix the mounting plates first and then attach the LS-32s to that.

I opened up the screw holes to 4.5mm and counter sunk them from the other side so that some M4x16 countersunk screws would sit flush. They need to sit flush as the microswitches sit on this surface.



These are the adapter plates I made. The top holes are drilled and countersunk for M4x6 bolts and the other four holes were drilled and tapped M4.



I used 3mm acrylic as the M4 countersunk heads are 3mm deep. If I had used material any thinner then I wouldn't have been able to sink the heads fully. I didn't want to go any thicker as I wanted to keep the mounting depth to a minimum.

Then is was just a case off assembling everything. First the mounting plates were fitted:



Then the LS-32 body with the modified holes/bolts:



Then the rest of the LS-32 was built up as normal:



Although I had kept the mounting depth to a minimum, the increased thickness of the mounting plate as well as the mounting style meant that the joystick will sit 6mm lower. To bring it back up to stock height I made some M6 6mm washers that sit on top of the joystick thread to raise the ball top.



There is only about 3.5mm of thread left but its more than enough to secure the balls in place. I could have made some new shafts that were 6mm longer but this was easier and the result is the same.

All done, I can fit the NNC art now

[AeroCityMayor]

wow d00d, that's tight. Nice result.

Cheers,

Ralph.

[opt2not]

Wow Franco, that's a great solution. I'm surprised you didn't round off the corners

Then the LS-32 body with the modified holes/bolts:

Hey what's that white plastic thing that looks so similiar to an actuator...

[FrancoB]

wow d00d, that's tight. Nice result.

Cheers,

Ralph.

Ch33rs f3ll@!

Wow Franco, that's a great solution. I'm surprised you didn't round off the corners

Yes, looking back I don't know why I didn't either, I think I was just excited to get it assembled. I did polish the edges though

Hey what's that white plastic thing that looks so similiar to an actuator...

Yes, it does look similar doesn't it. I wonder what it does, it looks to be a bit thicker than a stock one.