Dumping a monitor, worth keeping anything? [Dumping time]

[FrancoB]

I have a 29e31s monitor with some pretty nasty Initial D burn and it sounds like the flyback is also gone a'la [this] thread.


I'm going to keep the mounting frame but I am going to take the tube to the dump/recycling depot and I was just wondering if it was worth holding onto the borked chassis or not?

[grantspain]

get the yoke off complete if you can as you may find that will come in very handy

[FrancoB]

Hokies.

Don't think I will have a spare 29e31s soon to put them on but its better than dumping them.

I'll look forward to experiencing my first non-sexual discharge later then

[grantspain]

in the future you can fit that yoke to a normal 29" tv crt and then add a tri sync chassis

[FrancoB]

Does anyone fancy giving me a quick step by step list of what to do to remove what not?

I'll should be able to find a guide to discharging it myself.

[grantspain]

remove signal/mains/remote/earths from chassis so that its only the monitor,then unbolt and remove the complete monitor
then whip the anode off/disconnect the two yoke plugs/the dag earth going to the neck card/the neck card/degauss plug
should be it really,then if the yoke is removable it will have a jubilee type -undo that and manipulate the purity rings and yoke off in that order

[FrancoB]

Thanks Hannibal

I'm giving johnnygnct the anode cap/clips so that will hopefully be one monitor fixed from this one

[FrancoB]

Think I'm going to try discharging it this morning. Johnny gave me a quide guide as follows:

I just used a good insulated power cord and one alligator clip on each end. Then attach it to a long flat screwdriver (insulated handle preferably or just put some electrical tape on it). Then attach the other end of the cable to the metal part of the chassis. Very important: do not use both hands to do this. Put one hand in your pocket and don't take it out until the monitor is discharged.
Carefully insert the screwdriver under the anode cap until you touch the clips. Be careful with them. Don't beat them to hell like me . If it pops wait one minute or so and repeat the process until it doesn't pop anymore. If it doesn't pop at first probably it's already discharged (but you can repeat the process just to be sure). Then lift the anode cap and pinch the clips to remove them from the tube. It's easier than it seems.

Couple of quick questions.

I think the only croc clips I have are small ones. Does that matter?

Which metal part of the chassis to I attach it to?

How do I fix the other end of the cable to the screwdriver?

[Devil Soundwave]

I wouldn't use croc clips, they can come loose too easily imo.

1) Take a metre long peice of wire, strip both ends so that you have a good three inches of bare wire.

2) Take a large flat blade screwdriver with a good plastic or rubber handle and and near the handle, sand back any anodised/chrome coating until you get to bare steel below. This is so that solder will stick.

3) Wrap one bare end of the wire around the newly sanded bit on the driver, and douse the **** out of it with solder. You want to put lots of solder on so the connection doesn't move and you are sure you have metal to metal.

4) Wrap the other end of the wire *anywhere* on the metal monitor frame. I like to find a spare bolt hole, thread the bare wire through and wrap it round nice and tight so basically the driver is tied to the frame. By using the frame as a grounding point, the charge will dissipate across the front of the tube, acting like a big glass resistor.

Bob Roberts discharge tool is very similar, except he actually drills a hole *through* the screwdriver shaft to put the wire through before soldering - I personally think this is overkill.

Grant preferred method is, I believe, to cross two screwdrivers so that one touches an external ground point and one touches the anode hole, but that's probably best left to Grant who a) knows what he's doing and b) is used to electric shocks!

Discharging is good practice and it never hurts to do so, but it should be nmoted that modern monitors (within last 15 years) tend to have an auto-discharge function so often you didn't need to bother really. If in doubt, discharge.

When you go to do the discharge, don't worry abotu wearing rubber gloves, but do remember to keep on hand in your pocket so that you have only the screwdriver hand in the back of the monitor - if you have both hands out and you *do* get a jolt, last thing you want is to grab onto something with your free hand and send the charge across your chest.

Last but not least, I'm a clumsy **** oaf, and I have yet to maim myself or even get a shock, so don't be too scared.

[FrancoB]

Thanks mate, sounds like good advice

[gargoyle67]

Bye FrancoB nice knowing you

[cools]

Bye FrancoB nice knowing you

Good luck rotating your Pony

[emphatic]

Bye FrancoB nice knowing you

[FrancoB]

I was considering not posting for a few days

[gargoyle67]

Bye FrancoB nice knowing you

Good luck rotating your Pony

Already got said soldered screwdriver to meaty crock clip **** tateing the monitor striping it down and re-buildings going to be the laugh

[slapaham]

I'm a right pussy when it comes to discharging monitors... last time I removed a chassis I brushed the tube with my arm - I was so on edge I thought I'd actually got a shock and was shaky for about 20 minutes after!

Discharged a few monitors now and not had a problem yet - I'm sure you'll be fine Franco as you've obviously been sensible and done your homework.

Wish I'd have known about keeping the yoke. I binned a really **** Nanao last year. Kept the chassis though.

[gargoyle67]

Here's my dis-charge tool of death Worked well on my E3 monitor when I had a dry joint that needed re-soldering

[Devil Soundwave]

Here's my dis-charge tool of death Worked well on my E3 monitor when I had a dry joint that needed re-soldering

Nice one garg.

[grantspain]

i use a cattle prod

[emphatic]

I let my GF do it.