Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

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system11
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby system11 » June 7th, 2015, 5:38 pm

Yeah that ebay one was a bootleg. A real Exerizer will have Jaleco on the top PCB, like this:

http://blog.system11.org/wp-content/upl ... erizer.jpg
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vasilas432
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby vasilas432 » June 8th, 2015, 12:17 am

What is this board? A conversion or what?
Thanks
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby Spectre » June 8th, 2015, 12:30 pm

Looks like a legit Japanese King of Dragons to me? Some of the eprom labels probably fell off and have been replaced, it's a common issue with these boards.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby vasilas432 » June 8th, 2015, 4:41 pm

Spectre wrote:Looks like a legit Japanese King of Dragons to me? Some of the eprom labels probably fell off and have been replaced, it's a common issue with these boards.

Thank you for confirming it is original! Now we have to make it work
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby Layer » June 23rd, 2015, 6:55 am

Boot or original Raiden 1 ?
You can notice that it has sticker on each Pal and a second daughterboard, which replace SEI0050BU chip.

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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby copados33 » June 27th, 2015, 1:34 am

100% original Raiden.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby roothorick » July 7th, 2015, 6:23 am

For something a bit different...

There's been a bit of an issue in South America with Pump it UP bootlegs, most recently of Prime. (Which came out LAST DECEMBER. Seriously ****?) So, here's a quick overview. I'm in NA and haven't actually seen the bootlegs, but I know the legit stuff well enough to give you pointers.

Disclaimer: I know basically nothing about Pro/Pro2/Infinity other than they were done by different groups and did different things and may not have even been manufactured in the same factories. Thankfully, I'm told bootlegs of Pro2 and Infinity haven't ever been found.

If it's Exceed or newer, and it's on a CD, DEFINITELY a boot. No, worse than a boot. There's a "Prexceed" phenomenon where people have been hacking up MK3 mixes to add songs from later versions and passing it off as a newer mix or even a "new version" that never existed in the first place. Exceed and later are ALWAYS a hard drive + dongle (lock chip in Exceed 1's case).

And of course, the MK3 games themselves were bootlegged to oblivion. I don't know MK3 too well, but if it's a CD-R with an inkjetted label, well, you should know this already. There's a security IC that sits in a socket on a PCB, and then that PCB sits on a header on an I/O board inside the computer. (On MK5 it's actually on the outside, just below the drive bay.) Legit or boot, the IC is socketed. If missing or the game runs with it disconnected, duh. I don't know if these can be faked, though. I imagine bootleggers wouldn't bother.

Now, the juicy stuff, the newer games that run on proper PCs, the kits that are actually worth something. From NX onwards, all legitimate HDDs have a big sticker on them that looks like this. This one is an NX2:

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The silver sticker on the right is a hologram of a big capital M inside a circle. Doesn't photograph well, that might be deliberate. I think the number printed on the hologram corresponds with a specific mix but I don't know which are which.

Exceed, Exceed 2, and Zero have a much smaller label with no hologram, basic thermal print thing, would be trivial to reproduce.

Don't go 100% on the label. There's a good chance they changed the label again on me somewhere around Fiesta. But if there's no hologram at all, or not even a label in the first place... big red flag.

For Fiesta and later (and possibly NXA? I'd have to go digging), the version on the label (i.e. V1.50 here) will usually NOT match the version reported in the operator menu. This is normal and expected. The new games are specifically set up to be patched in situ via loading an update from a USB drive and they all have had multiple updates released. Hell, Prime apparently updates on its own if it has an Internet connection. Either way not an indicator, but worth mentioning.

Type of the drive may be an indicator too. Zero and previous were always IDE, NX2 and later are always SATA, NX could be either/or. Brand... all the drives I've seen have been either Samsung or Seagate, but Andamiro has a reputation for switching up hardware based on availability and just random whims. Wouldn't be surprised if they mixed in WD or Fujitsu or whatever at some point.

The dead giveaway, though, is the dongle. NX2 onwards are protected with a SafeNet MicroDog, here's what they look like:

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There'll be a sticker on the other side with the mix name and "ANDAMIRO" but it's also very basic and would be trivial to reproduce. SafeNet makes them in multiple colors but I've only ever seen blue on Pump kits.

Exceed 2/Zero/NX used the older USBdog, same blue plastic but smaller and plainer with a tapered shape, like a bullet. "SafeNet" is embossed on one side. These also had labels at one point but they're crap and usually fell off long ago. It's a standard practice to mark them somehow, usually with permanent marker, so you know what mix it's for.

But don't just look at it. Use it. Drop the drive in a machine and boot it without the dongle connected. IIRC it should boot directly to the operator menu, with an error message at the bottom. If you don't get an error message it's DEFINITELY a boot. And if there's no dongle at all, well, I shouldn't have to say it.

Hopefully that gives you what you need to make sure you have the real deal.

For the marquees... it's basically impossible to tell. Original PiU marquees are very similar to the better (but still obvious) bootleg DDR marquees, and they don't have any kind of authenticity marking. I don't think originals are worth anything anyway, unless they're from a VERY old and rare mix, or in very good shape. Haven't really heard of bootleg marquees, to be honest. Seen a lot of machines with a marquee for one mix but actually running a completely different one. I guess nobody cares.

One last thing: if you do come across a Prime bootleg and are thinking about just going with it anyway: don't. I'm told they brick if you try to update them, and it won't go online without the update.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby Stompp » July 8th, 2015, 6:27 pm

Twin Cobra. Unless it's a test/dev version (which I very much doubt) it's a boot.

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I don't dare to remove the smaller breakout board. It sits hard. And it doesn't even play well :problem:

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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby mastercello » July 8th, 2015, 6:32 pm

Bootleg - and for this reason I would say video ground is not connected to "normal" ground.
You should add a wire from pin 14 (comp side) to pin 1 or 2 - this should work afterwards.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby Stompp » July 8th, 2015, 7:18 pm

mastercello wrote:Bootleg - and for this reason I would say video ground is not connected to "normal" ground.
You should add a wire from pin 14 (comp side) to pin 1 or 2 - this should work afterwards.

As I suspected. Also, thanks for the tip about the video ground :)
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby rkrenicki » September 2nd, 2015, 12:51 pm

I have owned this F3 cart for almost 12 years now, but I never thought to open it up until a few weeks ago. I was having issues with my F3 motherboard (which turned out to be the capacitors) and I decided to check the cartridge for issues. I never expected to see that it was an obvious boot! It works perfectly fine, but whoever booted it, couldnt even find matching flash adapters or even EPROMs..

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geotrig
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby geotrig » September 2nd, 2015, 1:12 pm

ive never even though of checking mine
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<trk>:I remember catching a big fat one and my friend said "throw it back in, that one already tastes like wood"
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby muddymusic » September 2nd, 2015, 2:01 pm

Mine is exactly the same! I only found out when I was opening carts up to dump PAL chips. Was not amused as it cost me a fair whack.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby Asayuki » September 16th, 2015, 12:42 am

I have read the entire thread in two or three days, when time allowed. I treated it like a quiz to test my bootleg spotting skills and I must admit I did not manage to score the maximum, but I have certainly learned a couple new things along the way. For example, I didn't imagine that not having the key hole in the Jamma connector would have made the board cheaper for the bootleggers; or that Seibu didn't use to brand the board on the silkscreen. Thanks to all those who posted until now!
My 15kHz cabinet Peplos will never power up, with any item, and I am quite proud of that.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby chriscast » October 27th, 2015, 2:16 pm

Help please .

Is this original or bootleg???
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Looks like previous owner repaired this area (back of blue dip switch)

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thank you.
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby copados33 » October 27th, 2015, 3:07 pm

100% Bootleg, the pirates also went through all the hassle of copying the 8ing logo....amazing :palm: .
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby mastercello » October 28th, 2015, 8:24 am

:lolno: :lolno: :lolno:

Que niño malo...te pasas! ;)
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby copados33 » November 12th, 2015, 1:53 pm

mastercello wrote::lolno: :lolno: :lolno:

Que niño malo...te pasas! ;)


Hola masto :awe:
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby JandyKael » March 2nd, 2016, 6:31 pm

As per my knowledge MVS cart case type not being legitimate I.E a clear Waku Waku 7.
Also the Label looking dodgy
PCB board(s) are full of eeproms
This is not always an indicator, as some games were officially patched later on using eeproms, Fatal Fury 2 is one example, however it should only be a couple of eeproms and not the whole board.
Dodgy hand soldering (this is the main indicator)

multi-layer pcb
Last edited by JandyKael on March 8th, 2016, 6:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Asayuki
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Re: Boot or Original : Post original/bootleg PCB photos here.

Postby Asayuki » March 3rd, 2016, 11:58 am

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For those who are unsure, check the spoiler:

Spoiler: show
Bootleg, but a really nice-looking one. The original has M52-SOUND-C on the audio board (M52 is the Irem model for this platform), while this one says MP-712A instead (William's order code number probably, as seen on the original board). Put a couple of original looking stickers on top of it in strategic places and it becomes hardly distiguishable from the original. :awe:
Neat eh?

The original for reference:

Image
My 15kHz cabinet Peplos will never power up, with any item, and I am quite proud of that.

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