Konami 573 RTC dead battery fix?

[nem]

Got fed up with this thing losing save data, so I took a dremel to the RTC chip. Here's the result:

It's a coin type battery, so most likely 3V.

[trmatthe]

I can't quite get the part number from that shot but it looks like a standard ST Micro TimeKeeper, new ones are readily available.

You should be able to locate a datasheet easily to confirm the battery voltage but personally I'd just buy a new one from eBay and replace it. The Konami Viper/Hornet hardware (can never recall which) uses these and stores some critical data which must be written to the replacement TimeKeeper but I don't know if the 573 requires this. Maybe Porchy knows?

[atomriot]

Got fed up with this thing losing save data, so I took a dremel to the RTC chip. Here's the result:

It's a coin type battery, so most likely 3V.

Was wondering about doing something like what you are talking about. would love to see the pic (its not loading for me) if you still had it around, or had any more info about hooking it up. I read the rtc datasheet and saw the vcc and ground pins, as well as the write lock pin, but have not had a chance to try it on a dead rtc board as all my 573's currently have good rtc batteries but i know their time is coming soon.

[nem]

I did this back in 2013. Hyper Bishi Bashi has been running great since then, saved settings and all.

I'll try to find the original pic and upload it.

[leonardoliveira]

It's a spot welded CR2032 battery.

Mod a battery holder there and be happy.

[nem]

It's a spot welded CR2032 battery.

Actually, it's a BR1225 and it's encased in epoxy.

[leonardoliveira]

Mine had a CR2032. I don't think it matters though, because BR1225 has a lower capacity than CR2032.

Mine also had two "metalic sticks" where the spot wended tabs were soldered to. I just broke the block in half after separating it from the top and reused the original housing by gluing a battery holder into it.

You can split the plastic housing from the epoxy slab if you're careful enough. If you have no patience you can just crack the plastic top then solder wires to the attachment points.

As nem mentioned, you need to crack the epoxy under the plastic housing to reach the battery.

[atomriot]

Mine had a CR2032. I don't think it matters though, because BR1225 has a lower capacity than CR2032.

Mine also had two "metalic sticks" where the spot wended tabs were soldered to. I just broke the block in half after separating it from the top and reused the original housing by gluing a battery holder into it.

You can split the plastic housing from the epoxy slab if you're careful enough. If you have no patience you can just crack the plastic top then solder wires to the attachment points.

As nem mentioned, you need to crack the epoxy under the plastic housing to reach the battery.

aww dang, i was hoping that the battery +/- would be exposed by the pins on the IC. thanks for the info!

[nem]

Pic attached.

Can't remember which tab is which terminal.

[Asayuki]

The negative terminal is probably going to beep to the board's ground

[Siggy12]

Pic attached.

Can't remember which tab is which terminal.

Hi Nem , please help me.
can I open this RTC chip and replace the battery inside ? if yes can you please explain to me how to handle this and which battery i have to purchase for it ?
I have a DDR that clear ram every restart and it's very annoying

Thank You!!

[nem]

Hi Nem , please help me.
can I open this RTC chip and replace the battery inside ? if yes can you please explain to me how to handle this and which battery i have to purchase for it ?
I have a DDR that clear ram every restart and it's very annoying

Thank You!!

You can't open it. It's a solid epoxy brick. You have to hit it with a dremel and find the terminals (check my pic). Then just wire up a new 3V battery (like a CR2032) to the terminals.

[Siggy12]

You can't open it. It's a solid epoxy brick. You have to hit it with a dremel and find the terminals (check my pic). Then just wire up a new 3V battery (like a CR2032) to the terminals.

Thank You Nem now i understood what i have to do. .. the problem is that i dont have a dremel assuming that i have understood what a dremel is, can i use a cutter instead ?

[nem]

Not sure what kind of cutter you had in mind, but a sharp hobby knife could probably work. Be careful that you don't scratch the PCB, though.

[Siggy12]

Thanks for the help and suggestions nem

[Trevsky]

Hi i live in australia i got one of these konami world combat 4 guns two unit arcade games it has the rtc issue i am trying to see the pictures posted above of removing the button battery but i can not view them can some one help me view them please

[nem]

I don't think the RTC error can be fixed on a World Combat just by adding a new battery to the old Timekeeper. You can try it, but if it doesn't work, you will need to have the Timekeeper reprogrammed.

The picture is embedded. You may not have sufficient forum privileges to view it just yet. Make a few posts and you'll see it.

[Trevsky]

Ok thanks I can see it now Where can I find info on doing this? Or even maybe where or who I can buy one of these already done would be good it is all new to me

[nem]

Try asking on Aussie Arcade.

Alternatively, Arcade-projects. Quite a few members from AUS there.

[Tsar]

I can fix/program the RTC, with a M48T58Y-70PC1 (New, bought from Elfa Distrelec 3 years ago)
if it needed to be programmed like "Silent Scope2" or maybee no need of program
you have to desolder the old one and replace it with a new one.